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I use Model Master clear lacquer (gloss, semi-gloss, flat) in bottles, which I thin with Model Master lacquer thinner. Get much better results than I could using GlossCote and DullCoat rattle cans. I will try Mr. Color clear lacquers when I finish my current bottles. BTW, I recently got an Iwata Kustom TH airbrush; it's 0.5mm nozzle and fan cap are great for applying clear and base color coats.

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The rattle can Tamiya clears are what I typically use, especially for gloss/semi-gloss coats before decals. As for flats or semi-gloss final coats, if I am in a hurry I go with Tamiya or Gunze. If I want to take time at it, the best airbrushed flat I have used is Microscale Micro Flat. You thin it with water (do NOT use airbrush thinner, unless you are trying to do frost on a winter weathered model. Don't ask me how I know) and it produces a non-yellowing, uniform dead flat finish every time, be it over paint or decals.

Micro Gloss also works well, but give it a couple days to cure if applying decals over it because sometimes it can be softened by water if you rush it too much. I also like to use Micro Gloss on instruments in my cockpits for a simulated glass appearance. Other products probably work better for that, but it works fine in a pinch.

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F20D,

I've always used Testors Glosscoat and Dullcoat thinned 50/50 with lacquer thinner. Recently I tried the Winsor & Newton acrylic clears and while the finish was perfect, they took days and days to really dry. I've since switched to Alcad's Kleer Gloss coat & Kleer Matt coat. Both dry to a perfect finish, but the smell is worse then the Testors clear coats, so I'll most likely go back to them once I finish these two bottles.

Joel

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I have used MM enamels for a long time. My clear coat is either Testor's Dullcote, Clearcote, or Future. I hate MM acrylics with a passion. That stuff won't seem to stick to anything. If you want to use an acrylic, but can't get the hang of Future, use this:

Microscale Microgloss, Microflat, or Microsatin. A lot of people don't like this stuff, but I have had good luck with it. I mostly use the Microflat. It thins with water. I usually mix a little bit of the gloss in with the flat to get a little sheen. Just a thought. Good Luck!!!

Added: I just remembered that I have a friend that has used MM Metal Sealer for his clear coat. I don't know if he still does, but some day, I'm gonna give that a try.

Edited by balls47
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Tamiya Products in the bottle X-22 for Gloss thinned 50/50 or 60/40 thinner to paint and The new XF-86 Flat same ratios. you can also get the Tamiya Flat base and add it to the Gloss for Semi-gloss finish or add it to the Flat for an even flatter appearance. Note that just a lil bit of the flat base goes a long way!!

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F20D,

I've always found the Testor's clear coats to be on the thick side, so I now thin them 2:3 with store Lacquer Thinner. And yes, I try to polish out the clear coats with 8,000, then 12,000Micro Mesh pads.

Joel

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Another lesson learned in my quest for a better clear coat (better decal look). It doesn't matter how glossy the clear is if the base is too rough. I thought I polished it up good, but it was that flat gull grey that wasn't as smooth as I thought. The clear looked good this morning, nice and hard, just a little rougher than I'd like. Steps in the right direction...

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F20D,

I keep on promising myself to do a better job of polishing the painted surfaces prior to glossing for decaling, but I still cut to many corners, and end up paying for it when the decals have dried. Prep work is 90% of quest for a perfect decal application. I only wish I took my own advice more seriously.

Joel

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