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gibo2016

How long do you let the decal dry before applying microsol?

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Can I apply all the decals already and wait some minutes. And then after apply the microsol simultaenously. Or do you do it per decal for instance apply 1 decal wait some minutes then apply microsol. And only afterwards you proceed with decal 2?

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I usually decal a section of the model (fuselage front, aft, wings top, bottom, etc.), and then I apply the Microsol to each decal of the just completed section.

But I guess this is personal preference. Never had any problems with Microsol over a fresh decal. I was even using Microsol for very stubborn decals instead of Microset (blue label).

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Can I apply all the decals already and wait some minutes. And then after apply the microsol simultaenously. Or do you do it per decal for instance apply 1 decal wait some minutes then apply microsol. And only afterwards you proceed with decal 2?

I typically go one at a time and that's what I'd recommend. Also, not all decals need Micro Sol, I use it on decals that need to conform to a complex curve or in areas that require they burrow down into the panel lines.

Typically, I use Micro Set (blue labeling) for each decal as I go, following the instructions on the bottles. Let them dry in place a 10-30 minutes and come back and hit them with Micro Sol if required. Also, remember, Micro Sol will react with your decals, causing them to become very soft and crinkle up initially...that's normal and they will flatten out and settle on their own...best not to mess with them at that stage, they can get damaged! Any stubborn wrinkles can be dealt with later.

And I always test a spare decal before using it on one that I need, sometimes Micro Sol (and other setting solutions) can eat up a decal.

Edited by 82Whitey51

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I do as Lancer512 does, a section at a time. When doing a section at a time, do an area that is as flat as possible. Do an area like the tops of the wings. This way, your decal solutions won't run all over the place. Don't do the whole fuselage, all the way around. Try and do as flat as an area as possible. Obviously, you will have some areas where your solutions will run a little bit. For areas like that, use some pieces of paper towel and try and dam up the area.

As far as solutions, some decals will need little, if any solutions. Try and use an inconspicuous or un-needed decal and put it on a junker model or piece of sheet styrene that is prepped for decals. Sometimes water, alone, will work. I normally start with Micro-Set, because it's kind of "snotty" and it really helps the decal start to conform to the surface. Saliva usually has bubbles in it. Take a piece of paper towel and touch the edge of the paper towel to the area and wick up any extra Micro-Set. It won't take long for you to figure out if you need to use some Micro-Sol, especially if you have areas where the decal has to conform to surfaces like recessed panel lines, rivets, etc. If the Micro-Sol doesn't do the trick, you'll need something a little bit hotter, like Solvaset. When using a decal solvent like Micro-Sol or Solvaset, you'll want to apply it very carefully. Brush it on so it just goes over the edge of the decals. If you are using an acrylic, such as Future, for your gloss coat for decaling, you may notice that it turns a milky color. Don't panic and DON'T touch it. Let it dry, and usually, it will go away. The same goes for the decals. Decal solvents will make the decal wrinkle and look distorted. DO NOT TOUCH the decal. Give it a day to dry. 99.9% of the time, the wrinkles will disappear and the decal will look painted on.

That's about it from this end. I love applying decals. They bring the model to life. Good Luck!!!

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Good question and great advice everybody.

Just want to follow this a long.

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I've found Mr Setter by far and away the best decal setting solution I've used. But every modeller seems to get a different method to work for them. My process, with pictures is here.

Jon

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One other thing that I've found is to keep whatever area you are decaling as flat and horizontal as possible. If you're decaling the side of a fuselage, have the kit propped up on it's side so the decal lays as flat as possible. I've found this really helps to prevent silvering of the decals. It's not 100% fool proof but it really helps for me.

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