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As a modeller of some 50+ years and having my skill level rise to mediocre, I need some advice. After many failures, I have tried to stay away from Vac Formed canopies. First of all I can never cut them out accurately enough to fit them and having tried PVA, Krystal Kleer, Clearfix and Super glue etc, I still cant get the dammed things to stick. I have a pile of limited run kits that I would like to build that contain them so any tips you have would be welcome.

Trev.

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I'm no expert, but my experiences with Vac canopies. When cutting them to shape, don't cut it to the required part in 1 pass, take several. That way the sciccors have space and the part doesn't get bent trying to get the sciccors in. For glue I use white glue. It might take 2 or 3 passes, but when dry it will even withstand the handling of masking.

This is My Go-9 with a Vac canopy.

David.

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Aalene Ultimate Multi Surface works great for adhesive. Dries clear, and will not fog.

Also consider a BONDIC/5-MinuteFix type UV-curing plastic bonder; the stuff again dries clear, and sets off when you tell it to, via UV-LED in the applicator.

Dragonfly%20stbd%20final_zpsub5zldcz.jpg

The entire fuselage is vac-form here, and it was assembled with superglue. The plastic was coated with Future before joining, so no fogging.

Mask canopy framing with low-tack tape like Tamiya or 3M, so there is less stress on the joins when unmasking. Parafilm is good too, but can be pricey.

Edited by RotorheadTX
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Thanks to you both for the information, you have shown it can be done. I would be more than happy with either of the models you have shown here so I suppose it is more a matter of practice. I have a Special Hobby Ju-388 that I want to build but that has a two piece canopy so I guess I should practice on something simpler.

Trev.

Edited by vh-bob
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There is no one perfect glue for vacuform canopies; which one you need depends on the installation requirements.

First off, it is better to use a needle in a holder, or your favorite scribing tool to scribe the line around the canopy several times, each with gentle pressure, just following the line. The canopy should part from it's backing and require only slight sanding from there. If you must use a scissor, get the best manicure or sewing thread type of scissors you can find. For some cases, the straight type is preferred, for others, the curved type.

Always dip the canopy in Future or your local equivalent. (Makes the canopy appear more clear, whether or not you use CA glue).

As for glue, I most often use CA cement, because I build a lot of planes with complicated canopies, such as bombers, which require a lot of masking and fiddling. For these I often use Bare Metal Foil for masking, but sometimes Parafilm "M".

If it's a very simple canopy, I use some type of white glue, which can be smoothed out with a q-tip dipped in water later on, if need be. Once it has dried and has been primer-ed and painted over, it usually holds well enough AND you can remove it, if ever the need arises.

If the case of a "medium" fiddly canopy, such as an F4F Wildcat, I usually use GS Hypo Cement, which is used to glue on watch crystals and the like. Very clear, and you can smooth it down later with a q-tip wet with 99% alcohol (the 91% or less common drugstore type doesn't work for me).

A tip if using CA to glue canopies: Even though they're not supposed to fog inside when using Future, I have had them do so. I would advise applying the CA to a small section at a time, using a small wire or some such as the applicator to place a drop at a time. I use drugstore throw-away acupuncture needles for my 1/72 scale aircraft. Hold the just glued area up, on the theory that gas rises, and you can reduce the fogging to a smaller area if it occurs. Work your way around the canopy a few centimeters at a time, rotating the model to keep the just glued area upward. I usually glue two or three starting points, and then fill in from there.

Also, if you ever do get fogging despite all your best efforts, you can bore a small hole through the flight deck, etc. from the bottom of the plane and then shoot in a few drops of Windex into the hole and swish it around inside the canopy, letting it settle in an inconspicuous corner. This will wash off the Future from the inside,taking the fogging with it. Easier to fill the hole than rip off the canopy.

Any questions, just ask.

TheRealMrEd

Edited by TheRealMrEd
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There is no one perfect glue for vacuform canopies; which one you need depends on the installation requirements.

First off, it is better to use a needle in a holder, or your favorite scribing tool to scribe the line around the canopy several times, each with gentle pressure, just following the line. The canopy should part from it's backing and require only slight sanding from there. If you must use a scissor, get the best manicure or sewing thread type of scissors you can find. For some cases, the straight type is preferred, for others, the curved type.

Always dip the canopy in Future or your local equivalent. (Makes the canopy appear more clear, whether or not you use CA glue).

As for glue, I most often use CA cement, because I build a lot of planes with complicated canopies, such as bombers, which require a lot of masking and fiddling. For these I often use Bare Metal Foil for masking, but sometimes Parafilm "M".

If it's a very simple canopy, I use some type of white glue, which can be smoothed out with a q-tip dipped in water later on, if need be. Once it has dried and has been primer-ed and painted over, it usually holds well enough AND you can remove it, if ever the need arises.

If the case of a "medium" fiddly canopy, such as an F4F Wildcat, I usually use GS Hypo Cement, which is used to glue on watch crystals and the like. Very clear, and you can smooth it down later with a q-tip wet with 99% alcohol (the 91% or less common drugstore type doesn't work for me).

A tip if using CA to glue canopies: Even though they're not supposed to fog inside when using Future, I have had them do so. I would advise applying the CA to a small section at a time, using a small wire or some such as the applicator to place a drop at a time. I use drugstore throw-away acupuncture needles for my 1/72 scale aircraft. Hold the just glued area up, on the theory that gas rises, and you can reduce the fogging to a smaller area if it occurs. Work your way around the canopy a few centimeters at a time, rotating the model to keep the just glued area upward. I usually glue two or three starting points, and then fill in from there.

Also, if you ever do get fogging despite all your best efforts, you can bore a small hole through the flight deck, etc. from the bottom of the plane and then shoot in a few drops of Windex into the hole and swish it around inside the canopy, letting it settle in an inconspicuous corner. This will wash off the Future from the inside,taking the fogging with it. Easier to fill the hole than rip off the canopy.

Any questions, just ask.

TheRealMrEd

Mr Ed, thanks muchly for that tutorial. Very informative

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My dad, as he got older, ran into the same problems with vac canopies...he used to send them to me to cut out for him :)/> Maybe ask a skilled member of your club to do the cutting for you??

Otherwise, I pack the back side with clay, gives support and also helps you to see the demarcation line better.

Always start with a fresh No.11 blade, run it along the edge of the canopy at a 45 deg angle...not a lot of pressure on the blade, just guide it. After a couple of passes you'll have an established groove to cut into and soon you'll be through the plastic.

Clean up the edges with a fine sanding stick.

To attach, get some Gator's Grip white glue:

http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html

bauleo_gator_glue_01_0_zpsiu7rv6cb.jpg

Picture_GMK-001_zps4qf9h6u7.jpg

It's the "super glue" of white glues. Run a bead of it along the edge, put your canopy in place, wipe away the excess with a wet finger or Q-tip. Let it sit for a while and don't fiddle with it. Great for coming back later and filling any seams too.

Boom...done.

If CA glue is what you want to use, that's cool too. Just make sure you dip them in Future first and don't leave any finger prints on it.

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