Jump to content

Recommended Posts

The gaps are covered. Only partially from the inner side of the stabilizers, but a large area of the gap stretches right at the edge with the glossy heat protectors, so it has to look like a panel line.

photo_3.jpg

photo_2_1.jpg

photo_1_1.jpg

Then, very very subtle riveting, and a few other small decorations, and they are absolutely prepped:

photo_3_1.jpg

photo_2_2.jpg

photo_1_2.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

hehe, Kelly, i`ll figure it out after a minute with the second figure and with some tape, and i`ll post the photo ::DDD

Btw that reminds me of a question that i was curious about from a long time. So, how strong is the skin of the plane when there is a person on it... for example, is there any change or movement of the panels due to the approx 80 kilos tension of a person? The panels can move with 1-2 mm or they are rock solid and they can`t move at all? Is there any difference if a person walks along the edges of the panels where are located the frame supports underneath, and if a person walks right in the middle of a panel? :))) A long question.

Okey okey, in brief - i saw plenty of photos with people over the plane, but is it possible that the panels are flexible, even if they move just a millimeter or so, or the panels are rock solid under the tension of one person?

I`m just curious about it :) 10x!

Edited by my favs are F`s
Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks like the bulge on the rudder depends on the birds, there's been a discussion on Chuck's thread about that, remember those are C eagles but it changes from plane to plane.

I'm gonna put the link here in case there are some interested, for your model it looks like a bit late since you already addressed the "issue" in any case looks like both can be accurate at least for C Eagles

Chuck's WIP

Link to post
Share on other sites

In my opinion, it`s like the numerous parts changed over time due to the new technologies, materials, etc. The logic is that the bulged part is the actuator, which in the beginning used to be outside the surface area for a longer pivot point, for greater force. But after years of development, the actuators become possible to be completely hidden under the surface and yet provide the needed force to turn the rudders. Not to mention that the rudders are some of the few composite parts in the plane, which results in a slightly different color in some planes, just like the brake. There are the same bulged parts for the ailerons and the flaps, while the bases of the stabilators are two huge bulged parts from the leading to the trailing edge. But i`m almost 100% sure that the rudders experience much less force than the other control surfaces, so it was advantageous to hide the actuators without bulged coverings. And, if the bulged part is changed (but designed with), there should be struts and support elements from the frame of the rudders under the surface, which more or less "appear" only at certain angle. But overall, there are no such bulged parts. Wow :) this is just my logic and opinion, and it turned quite a theme :D

Here is a closeup of the same photo, same angle.... there are some "contours" of these parts and they can be noticed only in closeup, yet the rudders are flat to the surface, of course not mirror flat... :woot.gif:

werfgh.jpg

wertgv.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

The rudder actuator is the vertical rectangle at the bottom front corner of the rudder. it has 4 bolts on the leading edge in the picture, and 4 more on the other side. It has a round spline gear at the top which the rudder sits down on. The 2 bolts on the rudder itself are where the bracket that attaches to the rudder mount. When we would change the rudder, we would usually leave the bracket attached to the actuator and just remove those 2 thru bolts ( they used to be 2 bolts on each side that were safety wired).

Edited by kellyF15
Link to post
Share on other sites

I spotted an "issue" at daylight and first to ask, because it may be correct, i`m not sure. It comes to this small and yet noticeable outward angle of the pods of the vert. stabilizers:

photo.jpg

The quality of the photo is not that good, but it is noticeable. The camera is right above the pods, and the photo is quite zoomed. I`m sure that i glued the ALQ pod properly and i checked the alignment plenty of times. The other, the thinner pod is straight as it is oob... The thing is that i also came across this same issue in the F-15C in 1/48 and i thought that i should correct it, so i straighten the pods while thinking that they should be perfectly parallel to each other. But here - once again the same outward angle?! So i`m thinking is it the right thing? Maybe that is how it is in the real plane too. :unsure:/>/> :unsure:/>/> Any info? Thanks a lot :)/>/>

I checked this at work the other day and those pods are mounted straight on each vertical stab. They are not canted whatsoever. Also, I'm not sure if you were going to paint the covers of the wing root anti-collision lights with a darker translucent red later in your build, but the red tint is a bit more opaque on the jet. Additionally, if it's not too late, the right wingtip light housing is actually blue in appearance instead of green. Don't get me wrong, when the light is on, it shines green, but the housing plexiglass is blue when the lights are off. As always, your build is incredible and I only offer up these tips knowing you are creating the most accurate F-15E I have ever seen in any scale!

Steve

Edited by Falconxlvi
Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome work! Following with interest.

In some of the pictures, the surface looks very polished. Do you polish the surface with fine sandpaper, micromesh, or something? And is that to prep it for the photos or is there a practical reason behind it. I tend to prefer a somewhat dull surface during construction and priming, but it would be great to learn if you have other reasons.

Link to post
Share on other sites

:woot.gif: 10x all!

Steve, awesome info! I`ll keep that in mind, the lights should be switched off. After the painting, i`ll mask them and will add a thin lacquer coat as filter.

Janissary, i used 1000 grit sandpaper as a last treatment. It just helps delete the traces from the 600 grit sandpaper, but after a lot of rubbing it also gives the polishing effect. I just believe that the "mirror-like" surface is the key to make the primer set smoothly easier, then the paints onto the primer and so on. ...Cause sanding/polishing after painting cancels the details, while the lacquer fills the details.

Edited by my favs are F`s
Link to post
Share on other sites

I get started with the radar equipment bay. The door will be movable and the strut too. I changed the handles of the boxes, then some riveting and a thin layer of surfacer:

photo_1.jpg

photo_2.jpg

This is my improvisation for the difficult color. A mix of 4 Humbroll enamels:

photo_3.jpg

photo_4.jpg

And after the main colors + a lot of decals for the small labels of the boxes:

photo_2_1.jpg

photo_3_1.jpg

photo_4_1.jpg

photo_5_1.jpg

It`s still not texturised from the outside, but the door fits flawlessly after some sanding:

photo_5.jpg

photo_1_1.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

...With the door open the door latches would be easy to see...

Well, i noticed that, but... i`m just a little crazy, not too much :))))

I even deleted one latch when reducing the thickness of the door, and i don`t know whether to try to rescribe it or to leave it like that, flat...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...