gonzalo Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Jann, I was looking through pictures on Google and they do appear to be two static wicks per stab Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gonzalo Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Great work by the way! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 26, 2016 Author Share Posted August 26, 2016 Thank you Gonzalo. Yes, I also think the stabs have two pairs. But my primary concern was with the wings. Each wing tip can have one or two wicks, but for 9.13s, I have not seen the second wicks. So the question is about parts H4 and H9 in the first image. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 31, 2016 Author Share Posted August 31, 2016 A few pictures from the latest stages. I added a little bit of weight to the radome using clear silicone. The top-bottom joint strengthened with Apoxie putty: Endless rivet and line scribing: I noticed the Fulcrum windshields have a subtle blueish/greenish tint to them, though not the way I have it separated below. I'll play the artistic license card. Airbrushed thinned clear green and blue to the bare underside. Once dry, future dip. The canopy is also futured: Finally, after rescribing the details lost to sanding, followed by puttying and cleaning, things are coming together. As a final step, I went over the entire surface with MicroMesh 1800 (wet), followed by a final session of scrubbing using 0000 grade steel wool. This is again under thinly running water. If you do this, make sure to scrub the sink clean with bleach/clorax. Otherwise you will find islands of rusted steel wool all over the place the next morning. Of course, thoroughly rinse the model too: Control surfaces: I looked at a few dozen pictures of parked Fulcrums. While there is some variation, the most common configs were: Slightly upwards ailerons, straight flaps, straight rudders, slightly dropped slats, slightly dropped stabs. When the rudders were off, they were both always turned port-side, where the actuator seems to be. So, contrary to my observations, I dropped the flaps a little bit and positioned the rudders symmetrically opposite. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 31, 2016 Author Share Posted August 31, 2016 As you may have noticed, I cut off the molded static dischargers and plan to recreate them using stretched sprue. The static dischargers visible in the pictures are separate parts. I rolled the tips of them at 45deg in CA glue and sanded the ends flat to mimic the tapered tips. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 31, 2016 Author Share Posted August 31, 2016 (edited) Hoping that the windshield tint will be more subtle than the pic above once attached to the fuselage and its frame is painted. What do you think? The molded formation light expectedly lost to sanding. Drilled a hole instead, and planning to use stretched sprue (tip melted using a hot knife) like so: Edited August 31, 2016 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ichitoe Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 Coming along nicely, it's looking really good! Looking forward to the painting phase. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 31, 2016 Author Share Posted August 31, 2016 Thank you Mike! I hope to finalize a few things tonight and get it ready for primer. Still haven't decided what/how I will paint it, so I'm curious myself :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy Snap Captain Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Jan, Looking spectacular buddy. With the canopy, it does look a bit too tinted in the picture above, but like you said, it might tone down once camo and frame are done. Can wait for more. Keep it up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 Thank you Captain! I too hope the canopy tint turns alright. So, finally onto priming! Surfacer 1200, thinned with a mix of Mr. Hobby levelling thinner, Tamiya lacquer, and generic lacquer. The primer reveals quite a bit of issues with gaps, sanding, and cleaning, but I will just take those as my punishment and move forward: I wanted to create a rough, patchy metallic base for the later colors. My hope is that as I am playing with the top colors, if there are any accidents it will reveal the metallic base and hopefully contribute to realism. We'll see. My. Hobby Super Metallic, cut again with the thinners I used for the primer: Now, I will be working on numerous small parts while deciding how to go about painting this. I have not made up my mind yet! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ichitoe Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Whatever you decide I have no doubt it'll turn out fantastic like your previous builds! And your build has enticed me to pick up this kit. Great work as always. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 Thank you very much Mike! I hope you will have fun with the kit. I'm sure discovering a ton of things about the kit (that I would have done differently if started a new one). I'd be more than happy to share my thoughts if you ever have questions when building yours. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 I have been working on this kit and here are a few progress pics. There has been man layers of painting, chipping, painting again, weathering, washing etc.        A lot of the painting is simply exploratory, with no specific aircraft in mind. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) More painting. Â Â Â Â Â I liked how the wings were shaping up, but did not like the top of the fuselage. It was too tidy and clean. Edited October 11, 2016 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 Work continues...    Then, I applied the gray and green camo, removed most of the paint with a toothbrush and water, spot painted a few sections, scratched the decals using a coarse-grit sandpaper on the decal paper, applied the decals, stained the decals with an oil wash, painted and chipped the Russian colors, and did more oil washing and hand painting.         It's been a fun learning experience but there is still quite a bit of painting construction ahead of me. As I see from the pictures, I need to stain and weather the Russian colors, fix a few spots and perhaps redo several other sections. But, I am generally pleased with how it's shaping up. I'm aiming for a decrepit, derelict impression, we'll see how it turns out. There is no single aircraft I'm targeting, so nearly all of these effects are a blend from many pics I have collected, with a significant amount of the weathering purely fictitious.  So far I have not used any gloss coat, which is a first for me. All the layers of painting, washing and rubbing the surfaces have created a smooth enough surface for the decals. I may end up not using a gloss or dull coat after all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 Awesome! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dragan_mig31 Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 WOW! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptainObvious Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 I have no words... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) Thank you very much everybody. There have been times that I almost gave up on this build, but somehow decided to stick with it. I'm discovering quite a bit about how chipping media work. I am using both hairspray and AK interactive worn effects, but have to tell you I like the hairspray better. When the surface is shiny, AK beads up in clumps of liquid, while the hairspray does not suffer from this issue. Also, how long you wait for the hairspray to dry, and how long after you start chipping the subsequent paint layer all make quite a difference in the outcome. All these are new to me so lots of weird things going on as you see in the pictures. I avoid the distress by calling them happy accidents :) Edited October 11, 2016 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Silenoz Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 ppfffffffffffffff.. that's nice.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Friggin outstanding! I am not worthy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
musangpulut Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 wow!!!! super painting job! care to explain how you weather the russian red star on the wings? Its look convincing enough dude! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 Thank you guys. For the red stars and all other decals, I cut each decal off from the decal paper with a wide border (to be able to hold the decal). Using a fairly coarse sand paper (probably around 150-200 grit), I gently scratched the decal while keep rotating the decal so that the wear is not unidirectional. I had started with micromesh sanding cloths but they were too fine. Once enough wear and tear was visible, I applied the decal in the usual way (water, solvaset etc.). Once dry, I applied a thick, brown colored oil wash, which nicely infuses into the decal as sanding roughens up the decal surface making it more absorbent. I clean the oil wash after a minute or so. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Mate,I'm speachless!!!!! This paint job is one of the deadliest I ever seen,I'm really,really,really impressed! Â Â Â Gianni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ya-gabor Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Janissary, I am just back with ARC forums so did not see the progress in the past months. Your Fulcrum looks fantastic! Look forward to the finished kit. One note back on 30th of August you wanted to add the navigation light to the leading edge of the LEX. The small thing that you have sanded down and lost in the process of building is not the navigation light but a small white "blob" sensor of radar warning. The nav. light is on the tip of the wing. So here on the leading edge just glue in a thin streched sprue and cut the end of it. I tried to quote your post but it all now works in a different way and could not erase all the other photos so there was no sense in reproducing again all the photos of your post instead of just the one I am reffering to. I try something else.  Best regards Gabor   Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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