dsahling Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 So my tried and tested use of CA glue for filler, seams, joining is starting to bother me. I realized the other day just how time consuming it is to sand this stuff down. On the other hand, it is rock hard and perfect for re-scribing. Does anyone have an alternative filler that is easier to sand, yet takes to scribing almost as well??? Thanks Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChernayaAkula Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Maybe give Drewe's method of mixing CA with talcum powder (plus a bit of black pigment to improve visibility) a shot: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mlicari Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Plasticard diluted in extra thin tamiya cement. Or just good old chopped up spare sprue from the kit you're working on melted in cement. This is by far the best way to fill gaps when you need the filler and the surrounding surface to match (like when re-scribing). Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
falcon20driver Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Does melted sprue not mess with the plastic? I've been wanting to try it but I've been too scared. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mlicari Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Does melted sprue not mess with the plastic? I've been wanting to try it but I've been too scared. Sort of, which is why you don't slather it on like putty. Cover the small area or fill the hole/gap with just enough material and let dry (at least *2 days*). Then sand down and rescribe. If you let things thoroughly dry, you'll be fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mlicari Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Here's Steve's tutorial. http://www.arcair.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT066-filling-with-plastic/00.shtm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
One-Oh-Four Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Sort of, which is why you don't slather it on like putty. Cover the small area or fill the hole/gap with just enough material and let dry (at least *2 days*). Then sand down and rescribe. If you let things thoroughly dry, you'll be fine. Most of the glues also contain an extra sort of softener aside from the solvent. Except after using pure MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone) you can get sinking of glue along the glue-seams after some time. I'd think that filler made of dissolved plastic will sink/shrink even more? Cheers, Erik. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mlicari Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Most of the glues also contain an extra sort of softener aside from the solvent. Except after using pure MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone) you can get sinking of glue along the glue-seams after some time. I'd think that filler made of dissolved plastic will sink/shrink even more? Cheers, Erik. Depends on the size of the gap. This method is best for filling small gaps or holes, but on the whole I haven't found that it shrinks more (or less) than any of the typical putties like Tamiya. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SBARC Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Here's Steve's tutorial. http://www.arcair.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT066-filling-with-plastic/00.shtm It's good to see folks making use of that article ....for certain situations, it is an excellent way to go. If you want to protect detail next to an area you are filling......covering the area to be protected with masking tape (which is made from paper) might be an excellent way to protect nearby recessed panel lines. Also all manufacturers use different hardness of plastics, so always use plastic scrap from the exact same model kit to ensure the plastic matches 100% for ease of application and scribing etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trojansamurai Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 I like Magic Sculp 2-part epoxy putty because: - sticks to plastic well - smoothens out with water - cures to similar hardness as plastic and isn't brittle or chalky - sands and feathers really nicely - scribes nicely without chipping - extremely fine texture has no grittiness or air pockets - won't shrink so it can be applied at any thickness and shaped - cures overnight - can be used for small cracks and pinholes or large areas and conversions - can be carved, drilled, turned on a lathe, or milled - primer and paint adhere well Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tgoetz Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 What about the acrylic stuff they use on fingernails? Is that any good? I've heard you can also mix it with CA. There was a online article about that somewhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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