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Hi,

I'm working on the 1/48 Hobbycraft CT-114 Tutor. I'm having real trouble filling the gap between the two fuselages.

Whenever I prime the aircraft, there's still another gap that just doesn't want to fill.

It's not a big gap, but I'm planning on painting it in the colors of the Golden Centennaires and I know from real life experience that metallic finishes show all flaws.

Does anyone have any suggestions for filling the gap where the fuselages join?

I'll attach a picture later to show what I mean. I'm almost ready to give up on the Tutor because of that gap.

One of my friends suggested using a micro-filler before I spray the gold and blue on the airplane. Would micro-filler help with that gap?

Thanks,

Chris

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Hi,

I'm using Squadron's Green Putty. I've used it before and have had perfect results.

Duck, I had a look at the links you posted above and that's how I've been sanding the putty down.

I should've tried waiting longer than just overnight.

Maybe I'll wait a week before I do any more on the fuselage of the Tutor.

Thanks,

Chris

Edited by super_chris12435
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If there is any play at all in the joint (movement up or down between the fuselage pieces) Squadron putty will often crack when you sand it. If its a deep seam it may take multiple filling/sanding sessions, allowing for the putty to cure between sessions.

If you could possibly post a picture then I am sure someone will be able to diagnose the problem and provide a cure pretty quickly.

Good luck!

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Maybe you want to try using length of stretched sprue and a good shot of tamiya extra thin cement. Glue this in the gap, let it harden, sand it and use the filler only to get rid of the small remaining gaps. This at no extra costs reinforces the bond between the two halves and minimizes the amount of shrinking and cracking prone filler

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Maybe you want to try using length of stretched sprue and a good shot of tamiya extra thin cement. Glue this in the gap, let it harden, sand it and use the filler only to get rid of the small remaining gaps. This at no extra costs reinforces the bond between the two halves and minimizes the amount of shrinking and cracking prone filler

What he said, it's my favourite method even for smaller seams. If you use stretched sprue from the kit you just build you even get identical material and hardness.

Lothar

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1467710923[/url]' post='2812944']

Maybe you want to try using length of stretched sprue and a good shot of tamiya extra thin cement. Glue this in the gap, let it harden, sand it and use the filler only to get rid of the small remaining gaps. This at no extra costs reinforces the bond between the two halves and minimizes the amount of shrinking and cracking prone filler

+1 my favorite way! Read "no extra cost".

Edited by MacStingy
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Use super glue on long seams, especially those long fuselage seams. Can't you get enough "ooze" to squeeze out of the seam to use as filler? That works for me. There are usually some areas that don't get "oozed." That's where the super-glue (CA) comes in.

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Maybe you want to try using length of stretched sprue and a good shot of tamiya extra thin cement. Glue this in the gap, let it harden, sand it and use the filler only to get rid of the small remaining gaps. This at no extra costs reinforces the bond between the two halves and minimizes the amount of shrinking and cracking prone filler

I'll 3rd the above, also what type of glue are you using? some glues like Testors will take a long time to cure and will shrink badly.

Also ditch that Squadron Green putty, try Tamiya Grey.

Curt

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Hi,

I let the putty sit for a week or so. I think you're right. I'll ditch the Squadron Green putty and use Tamiya. Might work better. Stretched sprue seems like another good option, but I wouldn't even know where to start with that method.

Thanks

Yessir, Stretching sprue is easy, once you get it down. It took me about 3 or 4 tries, and I was stretching sprue with no problem. Stretched sprue is great stuff. I'm not gonna go into the technique, because there are plenty of sites that describe and show the method.

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Putty has some uses, filling SOME gaps, panel lines/detail. However, I find lots of putties don't take well to scribing. My tried and tested solution is superglue (cyanoacrylate) with superglue accelerator. You simply make a thin line of superglue over the gap/join and spray the accelerator (it comes in a small spray bottle) it turns it ROCK hard in about 3 seconds (no exaggeration). There are some ways to combine talcum powder or something into the superglue before spraying the accelerator to make it easier to sand. Here's the only catch with this method, it can hard to sand it down because of how rock hard it dries. Once you've got the joint sanded level, then use progressively finer grits of sandpaper to smooth it out.

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The cyano and talc mix is the best for me, as you can adjust it so that it is softer or harder by using the different viscosity glues - thinner varieties allow more talc while still being workable so are softer when cured.

Fast, no shrinkage, cheap, and can be sanded to a very fine finish.

Les

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My experience with the whole super glue (CA, if you prefer) has been iffy at best.

I either don't wait long enough, or I wait too long and end up filing or sanding detail I don't want to lose

which causes me to have to re-scribe, and that starts an entirely new nightmare.

Sometimes I can hit it just right, and it does work well.

I have had pretty good luck with the Tamyia White, Squadron green (watch the chipping when you feather sand the edges) and the Mr. Surfacer-s.

I have some of the perfect putty but have not tried it very much.

the 3M filler sounds very promising. I have only used it on Bondo on cars.

But I know for a fact that it will fill scratches and fairly deep imperfections and feather-sands perfectly.

I would have thought that the solvents in it would be a little "Hot" for polystyrene, but perhaps not.

I'm certainly going to give it a try, I used to get a pretty perfect substrate for paint with that stuff on cars.

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