Jessirelli Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Building this striking scheme, just recently re-released by TwoBobs. Thanks to CF104, habu2, and Ken Middleton on the jet modeling forums for more info on the jet. image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr I can't reach further than halfway down this seam without sanding it in the blind. Anyone know a good way? image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr The instructions in the aggressor boxing dont call for under wing fuel tanks, but there's lots of reference pictures out there with them. I glued the wing halves together before realizing I wanted this, so now I don't know there the pylon holes are supposed to be drilled. Can someone annotate this picture with the correct placement? image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr And how long are the static dissipators supposed to be in 1/48? I'm going to use toothbrush bristles. That's all the questions I have for now, here are some progress pics. image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr Thanks for looking! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jessirelli Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 Hehe, I just answered one of my questions by checking for the holes with a flashlight behind it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Silenoz Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 that was the tip I would have given, hold the model in front of a light, and you should see where you would need to drill.. with regards to the sanding of the inletopening, can't you attach some sandpaper to the end of a brush, and tackle it from the backside instead of the frontside? static dischargers, are some 3-4mm in that scale I think Nice work so far... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
murad Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 about the inlet seam, got a semi or full round file? otherwise as Silenoz sez, find a sturdy but small enough of handle ie stick of q-tip, a shish, don't bbq the plastic! :D, etc. use double sided tape and attach a sandpaper to it and work your way slowly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jessirelli Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 Some more progress, issues, and comments on this build. This is the first time I'm doing the Tamiya 1/48 F-16, so I'll be making notes to myself for future F-16 builds I might do. First off, the nose cone is just a hair's off on the contour, which will require some careful sanding. Ideally it would be nice to just putty it up, but there's detail there that can't be easily replicated after a reshaping. image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr Second, the gap between the tail fin and its stump is quite noticeable. Shaving it off for a better fit seemed to just waste plastic without any change. Had to add plastic card shims to save it, though it will still need putty to finish it off. image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr I found out later that I might have glued the main gear bays a little too forward, as a result I had to shave off almost 1mm of material off the inlet sub assembly, which I was not happy with. I tried getting that pointy part of the diverter to sink in with the V shaped groove it was supposed to be in, and it took a bunch of grinding to get there. Still needs a little putty. Ugh! image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr Another discrepancy I found on the particular bird I am doing is that pics of 84-301 (a block 25) show that the leading edges of the inlet are gray, so I painted and masked like so. I tried using thin strips of tape to contour the edge but it wouldn't stick. I ended up taping a big piece and cutting it with a knife on the model, which wasn't what I really wanted to do because it's a hair's off due to my shaky cutting. image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr Speaking of shakiness, I didn't fair well with brush painting the tiny black bolts on this wheel. Guess I'll have to reverse wash it or whatever you call it, doing the recesses in thinned out white. image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr At this point I am getting a little bogged down by the fact that there is still some basics left to do and a lot to get it to come together. I didn't even cut off the remaining tiny bits that need to be attached later. I went ahead and bought one of those cheap Japanese dollar store plastic organizer bins so I could cut them all out once and for all and just to see it all together off the sprues makes me feel like I am progressing. image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr Hataka Hobby actually has a specific acrylic paint set for this scheme and the other Flanker schemes for this aggressor squadron's F-15's and F-16's. Never heard of them? Me neither. I hope it works though, I will try it on a scrapped F-15 model I have sitting around once I get to it. Also tried acrylic retarder and tamiya lacquer thinner for the first time, both are great stuff for painting! Just ordered some 40mm tamiya tape and a swivel blade craft knife from amazon so I can get to doing the intricate blizzard scheme. image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr Also following some good tips from Gary Wickham's F-16C aggressor build (on scalespot.com) regarding the photoetch detail-up set. He suggests gluing the photoetch parts to sheet styrene first, then use regular plastic cement to allow time for corrections if need be. I don't know what is better, superglue or 10 minute epoxy that I have here, though I imagine I'll get similar results either way. Anyone have some wisdom on that? image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr Also, I screwed up the little yellow decal that's supposed to go on the blue box in the gear bay. I hadn't decaled in a while so I forgot to not use a super pointy toothpick to try to nudge it around. Needless to say, it ripped up pretty good and I had to abort the decal. I just saw a really good picture of the underside of a blizzard bird on instagram that shows this placard should really be there. I'm probably just going to try painting a little yellow square over it and squiggle an ink line for the text. Or not, I dunno if it's that important to me. Oh and thanks for the replies. And thanks for looking! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jinmmydel Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 The only thing I can help with is the un-drilled holes. I've done this before, and I've had luck holding the wings up to a strong light. Usually you can see the spot where the drill guides are because the plastic is thinner. Just locates those and you can drill from the outside. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jessirelli Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 Update! image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr I used a combination of flexible vinyl tape cut to 1/32 inch width and regular tamiya tape to mask this job. I still need some touch ups since the white grey did not stick well in some places. After shooting the aggressor blue from hataka, it looked a little too flat and muted greyish green to me. I changed the hue a little by shooting very thinned tamiya clear blue over it and was much happier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Silenoz Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Looks good, I suppose everything went fine with the intake? When applying such curves I tend to mask with blutack or fine strips of tape, gradually enlarging the borders till you can use larger pieces of tape... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jessirelli Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 I put this off for too long due to other distracting hobbies.  I did 98% of the decals in one sitting.  IMG_20170209_184733 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr  IMG_20170209_185434 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Silenoz Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Nice paintjob... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Â Nice looking decals! Clean and beautiful. Now some weathering... ? :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jessirelli Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 I got around to the panel wash stage.  Here it is being force dried in a food dehydrator.  I did the panel wash with water soluble oil paint thinned way down with a drop of dish detergent.  I tested it on the underside and it was still too strong, and some of the rougher spots were stained for good.  Guess I'll have to touch that up later.  When I wiped off the excess, I rubbed off a couple stencils.  Oh well.  For the top side I thinned the wash even more, and also worked more carefully.  IMG_20170215_143012 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ichitoe Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 That's a cool looking scheme! Just added it to my "To Do" list of adversary schemes. Â Great job on the painting. Too bad about issues with the wash. Â Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DanW Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) Great job on the Viper. What is your experience with the Hataka acrylics? Did they spray well? Edited February 16, 2017 by DanW Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jessirelli Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 4 hours ago, DanW said: Great job on the Viper. What is your experience with the Hataka acrylics? Did they spray well? Thanks!  Hataka colors sprays fine, I did 1:1 distilled water to thin it.  Only issue is that vinyl masking tape pulled off a few flakes when I thought it was dry enough.  Next time I will clean the parts of fingerprint oil more thoroughly with alcohol and give it a clear coat seal between each color, and use only tamiya tape. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Youngtiger1 Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 On 2/15/2017 at 4:15 PM, Jessirelli said: I got around to the panel wash stage.  Here it is being force dried in a food dehydrator.  I did the panel wash with water soluble oil paint thinned way down with a drop of dish detergent.  I tested it on the underside and it was still too strong, and some of the rougher spots were stained for good.  Guess I'll have to touch that up later.  When I wiped off the excess, I rubbed off a couple stencils.  Oh well.  For the top side I thinned the wash even more, and also worked more carefully.  IMG_20170215_143012 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr  Now that is funny. First time i've seen model being dried like this. As long as it works and wife don't get upset is good to go.😋 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matthew83128 Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Nice looking job, I worked this aircraft at Nellis and have tons of 16 experience if you have any questions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delta99 Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 F-16 jerky, haha! Looks very good! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 Rock solid build with an outstanding paint camo paint scheme rarely seen on models. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peterpools Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Beautiful work and cammo on the Viper ... so very nicely done Keep 'em coming Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wolfgun33 Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 Great work on the camo! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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