Bushpounder Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 (edited) Hi, all. I use Testers Glosscoat Lacquer for my gloss finish prior to decaling. I can NEVER get a nice, glossy finish. I usually end up with something that more resembles a semigloss at best! I have been mixing mine 1 part gloss to 1/2 part lacquer thinner. I shoot it fairly close and use 15 pounds working pressure when shooting. What the heck am I doing wrong? I have tried to do a 1:1 mix and it is basically the same result. Thanks again for any help. I need to get this portion resolved. I used to put decals down perfectly 15 years ago, but can't get it 100% correct for the life of me now! Spend two months building something; sink 100 bucks into aftermarket addons, and the decals silver!! I HATE SILVERING!!! LOL! Don Edited July 11, 2016 by Bushpounder Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 I find that laying decals down on Future virtually eliminates silvering. As for that clear coat. I recently got an Iwata HP-TH with a 0.5mm needle and a fan nozzle cap. Does a great job on primer (thinned Mr Surfacer 1000) and clear (Mr. Color clear lacquer or ModelMaster clear lacquer). Much better than my Iwata HP-CS or Badger 360 airbrushes with their 0.3mm nozzles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bushpounder Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 Thanks for that input. What are your airbrush pressure setting and your mix ratio if any? I tried Future too, and I got the same semigloss look. I am using a Paasche H airbrush. I have had old faithful since 1981! :) Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 I spray at about ~15 psi. I thin all coatings to about the same consistency, which is like 1% milk, so not sure what the actual ratio is. I could never get Future to work as a clear-coat. So, I only use it to dip canopies, fill gauge dials, or as a setting solution for decals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheRealMrEd Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Usually, the less glossy surface is a sign that the sprayed material is partially drying before it hits the surface of the model, therefore not having time to flow out properly. As a rule you can reduce pressure to help this, or increase MATERIAL (not air) flow. When I shoot Future, I have a special supply mixed about 30 percent with Windex (the kind containing ammonia). You could use straight ammonia, but it smells terrible and it's hard to find just plain ammonia with soap of some kind added. (At least for me). Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
viper730 Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 I see you are using straight Lacquer Thinner. I would switch to Mr. Leveling thinner or Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. They will help slow the drying time a bit. Nothing drastic but it allows the clear to go on wet instead of drying before hiiting the surface. I would also make it a 50/50 mix ratio. Last I'd use closer to 20 psi. I was spryaing at lower pressures and was constantly getting a rough finish. I upped the pressure a bit and the result is a much smoother finish....HTH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bushpounder Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 Thanks, all for the info. I will try these suggestions this weekend! Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slayermk1 Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 I also have a Paasche H and for me it's the AK-47 of airbrushes! You could try to use Metalizer sealer instead of Glosscote in mix ratio of 50-50 with 20psi. The other thing you could try is applying Future with a flat brush straight from the bottel in thin cotes waiting for 30 minutes to dry between cotes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Try adding paint thinner to the mix,it will act as a retarder, you could also keep thinning your gloss with lacquer till the final cotes are almost pure lacquer, it will melt and level the surface. If you'd like to try future, I would suggest just using it as a setting solution, dilute it a bit with water and apply it directly to the area the decal will lay, it works great that way, and no headache of trying to spray the whole model, I've tested it over a flat surface and it will work with no silvering. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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