Tomcat Fan Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Hey All I'm curently doing modeling on truly model from HELL.. building Yeager's Glenn III in 1/48 - NMF first I "Xcrew" up one decal put B6 in wrong position 6B insted of B6 - fix that then decals with stars cracked..removed decals respray alclad - fix that now anothed disaster striked... decal setting sollution made some reaction with alclad and area around decals turned much darker alu... how in hell to fix that... mask decals - stenciles and respray alclad ? or throw everithing in the trash bin.. ? any help apriciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scott Smith Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 I ain't touching this one! Good luck with that handful!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yardbird78 Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 I don't know of any way to fix your problem other than to strip everything off and start over. If you like the model other than this one problem, just put it on your display shelf and accept it the way it is. Darwin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tomcat Fan Posted July 19, 2016 Author Share Posted July 19, 2016 Just fix it.. :) carefull masking of stenciles.. very narow strips of tamiya tape over stencil just gently put don on it, and light spraying of alclad... aperantly decal sollution made reaction with aluminium in Alclad paint and made it darker - Alclad 101 after reaction looked much darker shade of aluminium... maybe usefull for weathering... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 Be *very* careful masking decals lest they lift off. I just lost decals on an X-37B due to making tape lifting what I *thought* were properly adhered and clear-coated decals. I was fortunately able to buy another set to replace the lost decals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cag_200 Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 (edited) I would always seal off aluminium or chrome paint first, coating and then decalling. I know than using future and gloss paint can solve the silver start floating again. Some thin layers will prevent this. The motto is never give up trying. I broke both tailbooms of my airfix cessna o-2 by accident and oke..just lefit it for a moment and accepted the failure. I drilled some holes, used metal wire and glued the parts together. Once I did smashed a Hasegawa 1/32 F-5E against the wall ... yes... that did not helped much .. :)/> Edited July 20, 2016 by cag_200 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tomcat Fan Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 Yes, never give up... :) lesson learned. what type od gloss coat do you use on alclad, not want to deviate from nice metal finish.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neo Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 Yes, never give up... :)/> lesson learned. what type od gloss coat do you use on alclad, not want to deviate from nice metal finish.. Well our beloved Chuck here on are did a huge trial of gloss on alclad in his p-38 kicked up a notch, its in the wip forums. Long story short gloss coat over alclad he recpmends tamiya x-22 , dont quote me on the tamiya number i might be wrong im not home right now. But look up the thread its insane. As for the .ain issue, you could dynamically mask with a postit note while spaying but rule of tumb all alclad that require a black base DO NOT put decal solution on it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tomcat Fan Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 I have learned my lesson the hard way.. :) THX guys Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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