super_chris12435 Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 Hi there, Still working on the Hobbycraft CT-114 Tutor. Managed to get the seam line mostly sanded down. Talked to one of my friends who's an avid modeller and he suggested using micro-filler. Should work, hopefully. Anyways, I'm writing as I'm looking for a w filler/putty to use. I'm unsure of what's the best of the following brands? 1) Squadron green and white? 2) Testors Contour filler? Similar container to the Testors tube glue. 3) Tamiya putty basic type? Could any of the experts here help me pick a new one for use? I've heard mixed things about all of them. Thanks, Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lancer512 Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 (edited) There is no right or wrong answer, you just have to try out the different methods and then decide what work best for you. It also depends on the properties of the gap you are trying to fill: I am using automotive glazing putty (3M) to fill sinkmarks and small gaps. This is the closest to the three brands you've mentioned in your original post. You may add some cellulose thinners to the squadron putty to make it smoother. But it will shrink and further applictions may be required after the initial sanding. Larger gaps are best filled with strips of styrene, eliminating a filler. You could also make your own filler by dissolving styrene in a hot glue, such as Tamiya Extra Thin. But this requires a good amount of drying time for the solvents to evaporate and it wil shrink. I've also had good results with CA glue, sanded immediately after I've sprayed accelerator/kicker on it. Some modellers are adding talcum powder to a puddle of CA glue and then apply it as a filler. The talcum is supposed to make the CA sand better. There is virtually no shrinkage with CA glue. What brand micro-filler is your friend using? BTW: ARC member Dutycat has made a very good video on Squadron putty: Edited July 19, 2016 by Lancer512 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SBARC Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 I prefer automotive glazing putty...I only use that now. Squadron green tended to chip along the edges....I did not enjoy using it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
super_chris12435 Posted July 19, 2016 Author Share Posted July 19, 2016 Hi there, My friend uses Alclad II microfiller and primer. It seems to work for filling small fuselage gaps and minor seams. I'm just looking at my Tutor now and I think that might be a good option. The gap is still fairly small, but I want to make it smaller. SBARC, I have to agree with you about the Squadron green putty. It does tend to chip along the edges. Lancer512, thanks for the video. I'll have a look after work tonight! That video should answer my questions. I'll add more to the gap, hopefully that'll fix it. I will need to rescribe some panel lines. What kind of CA glue are you using? And, what are you using as an accelerator? Are you using slow-cure or insta-cure? I'm thinking of using slow cure than I can adjust the position if the object shifts. Thanks, Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lancer512 Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 What kind of CA glue are you using? And, what are you using as an accelerator? Are you using slow-cure or insta-cure? I'm using Loctite/Pattex glues, as it is easily available at the next home improvement store. It is the normal kind, not a gel and not super thin. I'm using the smallest tubes, which come in packs of two or three instead of the larger bottles, as my application nozzle always clogs up after a while, no matter what I do. If it clogs, or the cap is glued stuck, it simply goes into the trash. Regarding the accelerator, I am using Wurth Activator, which is an aerosol spray. Just google CA glue activator, and you'll find different brands. But some do leave a lightly etched surface on the plastic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 For general gap filling I have had the best luck with 3M Acryl blue, it is an automotive putty. It is no longer made, but 3M Acryl White is supposed to be just about the same. It comes in a huge tube, so one tube is likely enough for a lifetime. Tamiya basic gray putty is very good as well, maybe even better, but I found it would dry up even when sealed tightly. In other situations, you may need to use something different, like thick CA, Mr. Surfacer or a two part epoxy putty. I never much cared for Squadron putty, I found that it shrinks, leaving a gap again. it also dries so hard that it can be hard to sand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GEH737 Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 For me - it seems like using Squadron / Acryl Blue / or Mr. Surfacer all have the same problem - I have a never ending problem with "ghost seams". I like to use Tamiya primer - and have been told that the lacquer base of that is softening the putty leaving the ghost seams. I've tried "Perfect Putty" - but don't like that you can't wet-sand it. Mr. Surfacer seems to still leave the gap - and builds up a ridge on either side. Letting it sit a bit - wiping it off with alcohol - works ok - but once again - ghost seams, and it still needs multiple applications. Watched some online videos about super glue and "Great Planes Pro Ca Debonder" - I ordered that and tried it out. Trying to find out the perfect timing on that is a crap shoot. Too soon - and you've disolve the super glue, leaving the gap still. Too late - and you've got a ridge of super glue that doesn't want to go away. Not as easy as I hoped it'd be. As my least favorite part of a project - I'd really like to find a better solution. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 When I use CA, I mostly use thin CA. The key is to wait until it is just fully cured, and then file/sand smooth. Wait too long and it's too difficult to smooth. With #6 files to get the profile correct and then polishing with sanding pads to 12,000, I can get a surface indistinguishable from plastic. Other choices for me are Mr Surfacer 500, Tamiya, or Perfect Plastic Putty for difficult locations. I'll use Mr Thinner to smooth Mr Sufacer and Tamiya; water to smooth Perfect Plastic. Perfect Plastic needs to be coated; I use thin CA for that because I can get a rigid "skim coat" atop the putty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
super_chris12435 Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 Hi there, I'll use Tamiya Basic Type putty from now on. I've used it before and have had amazing results. The hobby shop I go to didn't have any in stock so I was a little out of luck and had to use Squadron Green. I'll be sure to pick up Tamiya basic type and use that to fill gaps. CA glue seems like another good option, sprayed with an accelerator and immediately sanded down. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sir Fondlebottom Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 I usually put a bit of styrene sheet in the gap if it's larger. Depending on the size of seam I use from smaller to larger seam: MrSurfacer 500, Zap-A-Gap Slo-Zap (thick and slow CA glue) and for the largest gaps of several mm I go with Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty, a bit arrogantly named but not far off the mark! For larger body work like several cm and larger I go with automotive filler of various brands depending on what I get my hands on though that's usually still over styrene sheeting and such. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DutyCat Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 Allow me to help you out with Squadron putties. I have tried many putties and used various techniques. Squadron is my "go to" putty for 90% of my work. If used right, it goes on easy, sands easy, and is workable. I do no not agree that it dries too hard, as another poster opined. If i need a harder putty for a difficult area, I use Tamiya Basic Gray or White. In all cases, a drop or two of 91% alcohol before resealing the tube will help keep them from drying out between use. I put together a couple of videos that explain a lot. The only thing I would change here in hindsight is if you put in on at a moderate or greater thickness, allow it to dry overnight so that shrinkage is complete and you know what you have. G.G. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sky303 Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 In all cases, a drop or two of 91% alcohol before resealing the tube will help keep them from drying out between use. G.G. Great tip! You learn something new every day! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DutyCat Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 BTW: ARC member Dutycat has made a very good video on Squadron putty: I skipped right over this and missed it! lol Thanks for the reference! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DutyCat Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 Hi there, I'll use Tamiya Basic Type putty from now on. I've used it before and have had amazing results. The hobby shop I go to didn't have any in stock so I was a little out of luck and had to use Squadron Green. I'll be sure to pick up Tamiya basic type and use that to fill gaps. CA glue seems like another good option, sprayed with an accelerator and immediately sanded down. Thanks! Tamiya Basic Gray is excellent putty, BUT, it is one of the harder putties, and if you are dealing with larger areas, or areas that are hard to get at, it will be a bit more work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 ... I'm using the smallest tubes, which come in packs of two or three instead of the larger bottles, as my application nozzle always clogs up after a while, no matter what I do. If it clogs, or the cap is glued stuck, it simply goes into the trash. I have found that to prevent Super Glue's nozzle from clogging up, you should place the tube of super glue inside a fridge or freezer after you use it. That way, the glue & the nozzle never dries up/clogs. At the very least, it will last longer & won't dry up so soon. I've had a tube of super glue in my fridge for years and it has yet to clog up. Also, please be careful when using super glue/ crazy glue... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
super_chris12435 Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 Hi there! I picked up a few kits from Toys-R-Us that I'll use as practice for filling and sanding. DutyCat, I'll definitely have a look at your videos tonight. I'm sure I'm using Squadron Putty wrong. In fact, I'm almost certain that's what I'm doing wrong. Also, I've picked up a putty applicator tool. Does anyone have any more suggestions with applying putty? Thanks, Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 (edited) Does anyone have any more suggestions with applying putty? As stated by others, be mindful of where you are putting putty, remember, you will need to sand it. Different models will have areas which can be hard to reach with a piece of sandpaper Do not use too much putty, you can always make another pass. You can also mask areas you do not want to get putty on. Have fun, and show us what you are doing with a build thread. Edited July 21, 2016 by Kurt H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spejic Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 Does anyone have any more suggestions with applying putty? Wait a few days after applying it before sanding it. It will keep shrinking as it cures and the thicker it is the more it will shrink. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
breadneck Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 (edited) Lately i`ve grown fond of this here little thing. A fastdrying (shrinking) liquid filler. The tubed Mr.putty is very similar to the jar type. You should definitley consider getting hold of some as it sortoff fills a niche I buy my Mr hobby from rebelhobby in Sweden. Edited August 7, 2016 by breadneck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don923 Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 I too use the 3M Acryl blue,, there are times I delute it with lacquer thinner from thehardware store for jobs where I need it to flow into thin gaps. Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 You've received lots of great advice. I use everything from CA (super glue) to white glue (Elmer's glue) and everything in between. I have a buddy that works in a body shop. I stopped in one time, and I asked if the same stuff that they use on cars can work on models. He said that he didn't know why not. He described the best stuff that could be used on plastic. I got Tamiya's basic putty(the stuff with the orange cap) up on line and we looked at it. He said that was probably the best stuff that could be used for most filing purposes, especially "feathering." He also said that the glazing putty(have to add hardener) was good stuff, but it's nasty if you don't wear an organic respirator. He also mentioned the primer/spot filler that comes in an aerosol can (Plastikote/Dupli-Color,etc.). He said that if you use that (I do), make sure that you see the word "Sandable" on the can. If not, it's probably nothing more than gray enamel paint. He said that it should advise to clean up with lacquer thinner. That's my 2 cents worth. Good Luck!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
delta_dagger61 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 New member here and I'd like to add my input. My preferred putties are the following: Vallejo Plastic Putty, Perfect Plastic Putty, and Magic Sculpt Epoxy Putty. What I like so much about Vallejo Putty is that I can fill a seam and it's dry in under an hour. I then use 91% isopropyl alcohol on cotton swabs to smooth down and remove the remaining material. This eliminates unneeded sanding and saves  detail on the surface. Excellent product in my opinion and inexpensive. Perfect Plastic Putty works (and is good) but I find myself using it less often. Squadron style putties and I never got along and I salute those who can use them successfully. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randypandy831 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 I've used squadron,tamiya,mr.hobby,and other fillers/putties. I feel that squadron seems to be very grainy but is easy to work with. tamiya and mr.hobby dry pretty fast but dry rock solid so sanding my be a pit tedious.  If i'm trying to fill small gaps or scratches, i'll thin the putty down with lacquer thinner or use mr.surfacer.   Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mlicari Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I don't think there's a "best" putty/filler. Rather, I think that each has its purpose.  I use Squadron for the really big issues: large gaps and significant steps that need to be blended. Once sanded, I'll typically then go over the Squadron putty areas with Mr. Surfacer to deal with the graininess.  I use Tamiya for "medium" sized issues...ones where I'm not going to need to sand a ton of filler away but where the issue is in need of attention.  I use Vallejo Plastic Putty or Perfect Plastic Putty for narrow gaps where all I need to do is put down a small bead and wipe excess away with a cotton bud, and there's really no sanding needed.  I use Mr. Dissolved Putty and various grades of Mr. Surfacer for dealing with scratches, panel lines or other detail surfaces that are too deep or pronounced (think the Matchbox Mad Trencher or kits that have exaggerated fabric surface detail).   Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lesthegringo Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Talc and CA for me, nothing else comes close. Mixed right it never shrinks, dries (cures, actually) fast and is easy to sand, plus it scribes well and holds a sharp edge  Cheers  Les Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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