Kurt H. Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Hello, As I ponder more builds for the Happy Anniversary GB, one of the the kits I have is the Hasegawa 1/32 TA-4J. When I bought the kit, I also bought an avionix resin cockpit for when ever I got around to it. Any way as I think about this resin cockpit, I am stumped as to how to safely remove the pour stub. I could use a razor saw but I am not confident in my ability to keep it straight, and a mitre box is not wide enough The other thought I had was to sand it down like a vacuform part, with a piece of sandpaper attached to a flat surface. I am not bashing the product, I am well aware of the need for pour stubs, I just seek guidance, I have never used a resin cockpit before, but I have worked with resin car bodies and whole resin kits, but I have yet to deal with this kind of pour stub. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 (edited) On this type of part, I try to saw off what I can before sanding. I start by clamping the pour stub into my Panavise. I'll then start cutting around the base, going in a little at a time, but all the way around. By going slowly, you can initiate a fairly straight and flat cut around the whole piece. The key is to go slowly, moving all the way around the part until you're all the way through. This helps you avoid suddenly finding that you've cut into the part itself. For larger cuts I use a Zona saw, with its long and stiff blade. I only use my JLC for more delicate cuts. You can see a fairly large pour stub on the main fuselage of the MQ-8B in the upper-right of this picture. Not so clear is a pour stub on the bottom of the transmission housing, just to the left of the fuselage, and along the entire length of each rotor blade to the left of that. And then right after I've cut them off of the fuselage components. And after the finish sanding and fettling. This is the point when I'll then start sanding. Be careful with sanding to minimize dust and make sure you don't breathe it. Wet sanding can help here. HTH Edited August 6, 2016 by dnl42 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AX 365 Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 The other thought I had was to sand it down like a vacuform part, with a piece of sandpaper attached to a flat surface. Kurt, In my opinion, you answered your own question. That's the way I do it. I attach a piece of sandpaper to a large piece of glass that I lay on an old rag on top of a large, flat surface. For me, it's the top of my freezer in the basement. I have an old vacuum cleaner that I use to collect the dust while sanding. I tape the hose to the top of the freezer near the sandpaper, turn it on and then I start sanding. After sanding, I use the suction to clean the part, the excess dust off the sandpaper, the glass, the rag and the freezer top. I also use a respirator while sanding as an added precaution. FWIW. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 I also recommend sanding on a flat surface with a coarse sand paper. I always do so in the kitchen sink under a thin stream of water to keep the sand paper wet and eliminate dust. Give your sink a good rub once done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 Thanks for the input. I have a ceramic tile that is flat, upon which I tape a piece of sandpaper, and I use a ton of water when sanding vacuform parts, to keep the dust down, and to keep the sand paper from getting clogged. I do have a Zona saw as well. A panavise sounds like a good investment as well. . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 I'll second Janissary's using course grit sandpaper. I use 3M "Sandblaster." It's 60 grit and green in color. It's labeled clog resistant. I have a piece of glass(approximately 12" square) attached to a piece of 2" board. Attach a sheet of Sandblaster to the glass and start sanding in a circular motion. When you start getting close to the part, you will need to change to a finer grit sandpaper and continue sanding and changing sandpaper until you are happy with your results. Just remember to protect your eyes, nose, mouth, and other sensitive parts from the resin dust. I try and sand outside on a breezy/windy day. If it's winter, and you're inside, wear the proper gear to protect yourself and your loved ones. Good Luck!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 I'd avoid the sheet of glass for safety reasons, head down to any Floor Covering store and ask for a Marble tile sample from their discontinued lines, they will give you all you want as these are always available and actually become a problem if they don't throw them out quick enough.One advantage to the Marble as opposed to a ceramic tile is it will be flat, most ceramics are not truly flat and will have waves and imperfect surfaces, and the sample tiles will have some sort of thick signage glued to the back theat holds tile information, this will help prevent the marble from braking as marble is quite soft. As for removal of the pour blocks, if for some reason I cannot cut it off with a saw, I'll chuck up a drum sander into my dremel and grind it off, quick, messy and toxic... Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 After reading Netzs post, I realized maybe I have a marble tile. My dad had a box of these tiles and gave me one when I mentioned I was going to try some vacs. Only now do I realize it is a leftover from the tile floor that was in one part of the house. The Previous owners must have left them Any way I found some 80 grit sand paper in the sandpaper stash ... I got a start on it, but it is going to take a while Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 (edited) I'd avoid the sheet of glass for safety reasons, head down to any Floor Covering store and ask for a Marble tile sample from their discontinued lines, they will give you all you want as these are always available and actually become a problem if they don't throw them out quick enough.One advantage to the Marble as opposed to a ceramic tile is it will be flat, most ceramics are not truly flat and will have waves and imperfect surfaces, and the sample tiles will have some sort of thick signage glued to the back theat holds tile information, this will help prevent the marble from braking as marble is quite soft. As for removal of the pour blocks, if for some reason I cannot cut it off with a saw, I'll chuck up a drum sander into my dremel and grind it off, quick, messy and toxic... Curt You are correct on not using glass. I should have been more specific and mentioned that I have 2 pieces of plexi-glass(together, they are about 1/4") that are screwed into a piece of piece of 2 x 12. I stand corrected in my orthopedic shoes. Edited August 19, 2016 by balls47 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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