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dylan

looking for a match to FS 16440 in acrylic

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as the title says I am looking for a good 16440/36440 in acrylic. as far as i know vallejo doesnt make one and the model master acrylics are pure garbage.

 

I am aware of life colour, but I havent had much luck with them at all. and I know there is a tamiya spray can that matches , but I am trying not to stink my place up with solvents.

so far it looks like the only game in town is the model master enamel, which I am not too crazy about using. I really miss xtracolour.

 

so if anyone could point me in the right direction I would be grateful.

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I guess it depends on what you consider garbage. I use MM Acryl exclusively and I absolutely love it. It sprays on nicely and can be touched up by hand without worrying if the hue will be the same. Adhesion is only an issue if you don't prep the plastic. 

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Does it have to be water thinned Acrylics? If not, you might give these Lacquer based Acrylics a look.

Uschi sells them, among others. http://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-colors-paints-pigments-primer/mr-paint-superfine-inks-1/

 

I can't use them, because of the Lacquer, but, I have a few, and I would use them if I could.

 

As for MM Acrylics, you can turn them into "almost Polly Scale" by using Golden's Medium, or possibly Pledge. But, whether you change them or not, just prime the model first. There are actually quite a few people that use MM on their models, with success, Darren above being one of them. His stuff turns out well enough to be used as article illustrations, so it can certainly be done.

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adhesion is the biggest problem I had with MM acrylics. the other major problem was their tendency to turn to concrete at the bottom of the jar if not shaken on a regular basis.

 

 

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Why not Mr.Hobby acrylics from Gunze? It is no. H315. You can take Gunze thinner: Mr. Color thinner or Mr. Color levelling thinner as well as Tamiya X20A.

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thanks for the replies fellas. I might give the Mr paint stuff a try, I think there ia an importer here in canada.

3 hours ago, tobiK said:

Why not Mr.Hobby acrylics from Gunze? It is no. H315. You can take Gunze thinner: Mr. Color thinner or Mr. Color levelling thinner as well as Tamiya X20A.

I would love to use the gunze stuff again, but it has not been available here in north america for some time.

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4 hours ago, dylan said:

thanks for the replies fellas. I might give the Mr paint stuff a try, I think there ia an importer here in canada.

I would love to use the gunze stuff again, but it has not been available here in north america for some time.

Doesn't sprue brothers carry it? Also the model master gull gray seems to be the most accurate so there's that.

Edited by Vaildog

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I live in Canada and have ordered the Gunze from Mike at MJR Models and Hobbies in the UK pretty good price and very responsive to question, you can find them on FB Model Kits for less or via web www.mjrmodelsandhobbies.co.uk

 

Gordon

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On 10/16/2016 at 4:09 PM, dylan said:

thanks for the replies fellas. I might give the Mr paint stuff a try, I think there ia an importer here in canada.

I would love to use the gunze stuff again, but it has not been available here in north america for some time.

 

You can order Gunze acrylics from the states here:  http://www.1001modelkits.com/2023-gunze-paint-acrylic

 

Most are available and ship within a week.

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And Gunze H51 Gloss Light Gull Gray is a great match.

Edited by RichardL

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One thing I recommend when using MM Acrylics, ditch the Testors thinner as that seems to be the source of the adhesion problem. Once I switched to using Tamiya acrylic thinner to thin Testors acrylics, the paint seems to stick A LOT better.

Edited by Jay Chladek

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Universal from the UK also works well with it. (and yes, it is shipped to the US just fine)

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I'll be starting an A-4F soon so I have been pondering the same issue (I don't have Gunze 315, and don't like MM acrylics or enamels). 

 

I have decided to go with a 1:1 mix of Tamiya XF-19 and XF-20. I think this gets you close enough to 36440, flat gull gray. I had tried this on a previous F-102 build:

There is a little bit of metallic color added too, but you can ignore that. XF-19 is good base for the fundamental gray, and XF-20 adds that yellowish/light brownish hue characteristic of the gull gray.  I realize F-102 calls for ADC gray, but after I was done, I thought what I got with the deuce looked awfully similar to 36440. Anyway, I plan to go with that for my A-4F build. 

 

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Vallejo does make it in the Model Air line, 71.121 is their 36440 and it matches up pretty close to ModelMaster and Gunze's renditions.

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Thanks Phantomdriver,,,,,,,,so, does that mean that today I learned that screen wash (windshield washer fluid) works with Tamiya and Gunze, Vallejo and Mig, PollyScale and Model Master, LifeColor and AKAN?

 

(grouped according to the similar paint formulas,,,,,,,all 4 groups famous for not being compatible with each other's thinner)

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essentially, most of these thinners, applicable to acrylics are just isopropyl alcohol.. other brands  have stuff like retarders added

But the Universal stuff is just screen wash..  a couple of friends and I had another friend do a mass spec  on the universal... boom... screen wash..

oh, btw, the universal acrylic primer is just Badger Stylenrez, albeit with a different label and bigger price tag..

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On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 6:29 PM, dylan said:

as the title says I am looking for a good 16440/36440 in acrylic. as far as i know vallejo doesnt make one and the model master acrylics are pure garbage.

 

I am aware of life colour, but I havent had much luck with them at all. and I know there is a tamiya spray can that matches , but I am trying not to stink my place up with solvents.

so far it looks like the only game in town is the model master enamel, which I am not too crazy about using. I really miss xtracolour.

 

so if anyone could point me in the right direction I would be grateful.

May I ask what your problem with Lifecolor is? I use Lifecolor pretty much exclusively and I have pretty much worked out the kinks of it and have it conforming to my will :D I'm sure I can help you out.

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3 minutes ago, Aigore said:

May I ask what your problem with Lifecolor is? I use Lifecolor pretty much exclusively and I have pretty much worked out the kinks of it and have it conforming to my will :D I'm sure I can help you out.

I would actually be interested in hearing what you you have done to get them to spray well.  I have quite a few bottles of this that I stopped using because it kept clogging my needle every 30 seconds or so, even after using a retarder.  I tried adding future, WW fluid, and distilled water.  Nothing seemed to help me. 

 

Now, I just throw in some Gunze Aqueous or Tamiya Acrylic and go spray without worries...  But I would like to use up the LifeColor I still have.

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I knew about the primer being Stynylrez,,,,,,,I tell people about it when they worry about getting some shipped out of the US.

I just send to the "UK store" to get it over there.

 

As for Screen Wash,,,,,,,that is a major component in my own home made thinner. But, I also don't use Tamiya, Gunze or the Vallejo family.

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41 minutes ago, Fighting Eighty-Four said:

I would actually be interested in hearing what you you have done to get them to spray well.  I have quite a few bottles of this that I stopped using because it kept clogging my needle every 30 seconds or so, even after using a retarder.  I tried adding future, WW fluid, and distilled water.  Nothing seemed to help me. 

 

Now, I just throw in some Gunze Aqueous or Tamiya Acrylic and go spray without worries...  But I would like to use up the LifeColor I still have.

I thin it with window cleaner, obviously using Swedish brands but it contains ammonia and denaturated alcohol.

I use a 40-60 ratio of paint and thinner with a few drops of retarder  (I usually mix pints in small medicin cups with lid and they keep for several months, that way I don't have to mix paints everytime I use them)

I shoot at about 1-1,5 bar, that's  14-21 psi.

 

The paint builds up on the needle as soon as you let go of the trigger,  best way is to spray as continuously as possible to delay clogging. I use cotton swabs dipped in thinner to quickly clean the tip of the needle when the paint builds up...no need to disassemble the airbrush just roll the swab around the nozzle real quick and then continue painting. Sometimes you just have to shoot at full throttle a bit to disolve the paint build-up on the tip.

 

For fine lines I can go with a 30-70mix of paint and thinner and shoot at 0.5-0.8 bar

I shoot thin "dry" coats that dries to the touch almost emidiately and put on thin layers until I'm happy with the result.

I never use Lifecolors own thinners...I think they are crap :P

I've used Lifecolor in every build for almost 10 years now and I'm perfectly happy with it :D

 

 

Free hand paint job with Lifecolor.

DSC_7750_zps597fb7c3.jpg

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2 hours ago, Aigore said:

May I ask what your problem with Lifecolor is? I use Lifecolor pretty much exclusively and I have pretty much worked out the kinks of it and have it conforming to my will :D I'm sure I can help you out.

 

Like everyone else has said it does not spray very well. but that is all irrelevant now since i discovered that A: thinning MM enamels with lacquer thinner makes a huge difference in how it sprays. and B: Vallejo does make a 36440, I was just reading the paint guide wrong. so now I have all the colours I need for both gull grey over white and the tps scheme from vallejo.

thanks again for all the replies everyone. 

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1 hour ago, Aigore said:

I thin it with window cleaner, obviously using Swedish brands but it contains ammonia and denaturated alcohol.

I use a 40-60 ratio of paint and thinner with a few drops of retarder  (I usually mix pints in small medicin cups with lid and they keep for several months, that way I don't have to mix paints everytime I use them)

I shoot at about 1-1,5 bar, that's  14-21 psi.

 

The paint builds up on the needle as soon as you let go of the trigger,  best way is to spray as continuously as possible to delay clogging. I use cotton swabs dipped in thinner to quickly clean the tip of the needle when the paint builds up...no need to disassemble the airbrush just roll the swab around the nozzle real quick and then continue painting. Sometimes you just have to shoot at full throttle a bit to disolve the paint build-up on the tip.

 

For fine lines I can go with a 30-70mix of paint and thinner and shoot at 0.5-0.8 bar

I shoot thin "dry" coats that dries to the touch almost emidiately and put on thin layers until I'm happy with the result.

I never use Lifecolors own thinners...I think they are crap :P

I've used Lifecolor in every build for almost 10 years now and I'm perfectly happy with it :D

 

 

What airbrush are you using with lifecolor and what size tip/needle?

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