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Monogram 1/48 Delta Dagger Questions


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I am new around here and usually don't building models, apart from an odd Gundam kit. I picked up a 2002 boxing it appears of the Monogram 1/48 Delta Dagger. Working at a laboratory till two in the morning has its drawbacks. So I figured maybe I'll take up a new hobby to occupy my lonely night. I've always had an interest in aircraft since my father built a lot of models when I was younger. I built a few during my childhood yet never pursed it since not many females build models.

 

So now on to my questions on how to proceed. 

 

My building tools or lack of leave a lot to be desired. I have I guess you can call them sprue cutters? From my jewelry making. I have regular blades I use for my crafts and a cutting mat. I have emery boards I guess I could use. However I'm not sure if I should get something better? Are there any other tools that are must have? The ones I listed above get me by on my Gundam kits.

 

My next big question is just how much work is this model? If I recall it seemed the Monogram kits took more work than other manufactures or at least they did when my father built them.

 

What's the best paint brand and way to paint it? I know my father airbrushed everything. I have an air-compressor in my shed; however I know airbrushes are pretty pricey. I was planning on at least brush painting the interior of the model. 

 

Should I try something easier first? Since I will admit the size of the model is a little bigger than I expected.

 

That's all the questions I can think of at the moment. Any other advice will be appreciated.

 

Thank you,

 

Lisa 

Edited by ZombieQueen
I don't spell good when I'm sleepy
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A good set of sprue cutters and a sharp xacto knife goes a long ways. I use tamiya liquid glue(green top) and super glue. Also tamiya putty along with mr. surfacer 500. Tamiya paints are nice and can be thinned with 91 % rubbing alcohol. Only real drawback is they arent federal standard colors so mixing to get the right color is needed. I have emery boards, regular small metal files and panel line scriber from tamiya. Airbrushes may be pricey but last a lifetime. I have an iwata talon and a old cresendo(15+yrs old). Spruebrothers has a tool section that helps.  

As for the kit, i have a few of them but not really built one. Some people have rescribed the panel lines and dropped in aftermarket cockpits. Its really depepend on what you want to accomplish. If you want a easy build, tamiya has a new F-14 out and their F-16 is nice. Revells F-15E is nice for a Desert Storm bird. All mentioned kits are 1/48 scale.

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First off welcome to ARC!  You came to the right place for help so you're off to a good start!

 

My first piece of advice is to just concentrate on enjoying the build and getting the various pieces and parts aligned and fitting as well as you can (and in the right place...LOL!). I think you have the basic essentials tool wise at this stage to begin building. As you build more you will quickly realize what tools you need or would like. If you build Gundam kits then you already know to cut the parts from the sprues with your cutters, clean them up with your xacto blades and smooth them over with your lower grit sanding sticks. And dry fit...dry fit...dry fit before adding glue. Personally, I wouldn't worry about filling seams and gaps at this stage unless its something you really want to tackle right out of the gates. Filling and sanding seams can be frustrating to veteran builders and downright demoralizing to newcomers. Most of us here cut our teeth just building models straight out of the box and over time desired to improve the looks of our models through filling seams and gaps, rescribing lost panel lines, and adding various aftermarket items like cockpits, wheel wells, decals etc. I'd recommend just keeping your first few builds simple.

 

In terms of paint, in the absence of having an airbrush there are many brands of model spray paints. You could use a can of the appropriate color and with patience achieve a nice finish (Testors and Tamiya for example make nice spray paints) . You can brush paint the cockpit (again Testors makes paints that match the color callouts in the Dagger kit to keep things simple) and interior areas, but I would invest in some half decent brushes of various sizes and just take your time (multiple thin coats is better then one thick coat).  

 

The Monogram/Revell Century Series kits (F-100, F-101,  F-102, F-104, F-105, F-106) are challenging builds but impressive when completed. There are easier kits to start off with but I think with patience, going slow, dry fitting, following the plans you shouldn't have too much difficulty. But keep moving forward!

 

Good luck! Don't hesitate to ask questions as someone here will have the answer(s) or the advice.

 

Remember...HAVE FUN!

 

Sorry for the long post...Cheers!

 

EDIT: spelling.

Edited by Don
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I suggest starting with something simple, such as one of the very inexpensive Hobby Boss "Easy Assembly" kits in 1/72 and brush paint the entire thing.  For brush painting, reasonable quality paint brushes are essential.  I suggest using the paint manufacturer's thinner for the brush painting part of the build.  (I get much better results brush painting when using the recommended thinner.)  Find an article online with brush painting techniques for scale models.  I suggest acrylic paints as they are much easier to locate and handle.  Recommendation for brands of supplies would vary depending on availability in your part of the world.  Tamiya paints are usually easy to obtain and use.  If you have a hobby or craft shop locally, post back with the paint brands that are available and I am sure you will get feedback on what is best to use for brush painting.  I would avoid spray painting until you get a couple of kits done so you experiment with the assembly before making an investment in an airbrush.  You may also wish to purchase a couple types of masking tape: low-tack painters tape for painting hard demarcations, canopies, etc.; and regular masking tape for holding parts together while the glue dries.  Be aware that acrylic paints are more prone to being pulled up by tape - even low tack tape.  So avoid using tape over large portions of the kit (cut it into thin strips or buy the thin Tamiya tape).  There are probably many other things, but that is what comes to mind...

 

As far as the Delta Dagger is concerned, the good thing is that the entire exterior of the plane is a single gray color so it is a great candidate for spray painting, either from a can (Tamiya is usually recommended for this) or airbrush.

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Hey, Lisa! :wave: How's it going, lass?

Welcome to the forums. I really like your user name! Is there an explanation to it? :coolio:

The Monogram 1/48 F-102 is a great kit; huge! Actually, I like the F-106 a little bit more, but they can be both a tad difficult to build because of alignment issues.

The most basic of tools will allow you to build that kit - a #11 sharp hobby blade, liquid cement, a couple of files, wet and dry sand paper (600 to 1200 grit), lots of putty and I suggest you have several clothespins or an assortment of rubber bands to hold the glued assemblies together.

I still like painting with the old enamel paints, and I have an old Badger 150 airbrush. I recently bought an Iwata Micron Custom C-Plus which I still need to learn to use.

I started building those tail-draggers first - P-51, F4U, P-47, Zero, Me 109 - of the cheap Otaki brand before attempting the more complex and expensive jet types. Perhaps you might ask your paps for building tips, or even you can always come here for wisdom, for that is the best expertise you are going to benefit from.

You can post your build progress and ask for help on the forums; there are lots of great modellers - great fellas as well - on here. Then, as your passion for this hobby develops, you're going to learn a lot of new techniques and also, you're going to be adding lots of new and exotic/expensive tools to your collection. You will see.

Enjoy the forum! 

Cheers,

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I agree that the enamel paints are easier to brush out of the bottle since they do not dry as fast and level better.  I think it really only matters if the odor bothers you.  Most of the water based acrylics are less offensive in that respect and easy to clean if you drop some paint on the floor, a kitchen table....your hair!  LOL.  However, you can buy (not expensive) products that slow the drying time of water-based acrylics at your art/craft store (just add a few drops).  I think the reason acrylics are much easier to find in most parts of the world has something to do with their VOC (volatile organic compound) properties, which are much more kid-friendly.  Paint and putty can be toxic (even the acrylics), but the VOC properties of enamel and lacquer paints much more so (bigger deal when airbrushing).  I find the acrylics much better for open air, indoor work when other people are around or you don't want to bother with smelly paint thinners. 

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Oh wow! I didn’t realize that I would get this many replies when I woke up this morning. First off thank you to everyone for taking time to answers my questions!!!

adamitri,

Think I’m already covered for sprue cutters and xacto knifes since I use those for my crafts. I put a lot of money into my clippers sorry not used to calling them sprue cutters. They seem to work well on my Gundam kits leaving just a little plastic to sand. I’m 99% sure Tamiya paint is what my father used on his models.  So maybe I’ll look into buying the colors for the model.  I don’t think I want to spend money on an airbrush just yet since I’m not 100% sure yet that this will be a long term thing.

Oh my I looked at the Tamiya F-14 while I like how the kit looks, all the Jolly Roger on the tail! I’m afraid it’s out of the budget for a humble laboratory tech! And now I’m realizing that I spend fifty dollars to get my nails done!  I’m looking at the Revell 1/48 Mig-29 right now. I have always been interested in the USSR so since its Russian it holds some appeal to me. Going by some websites it sounds like an okay model since I’m not worried about accuracy.

Thank you for taking time to reply!

 

phantomdriver,

No scalpels in my lab unfortunately. I work around bloodborne pathogens so anything sharp is avoided at all costs.

 

Don,

Thank you for the welcome!

I believe I’ll try just enjoying my first few models for the moment. Just looking at everything you can do with a model is almost overwhelming! I’m happy just to put my Gundam models together and sit them on the shelf. It’s a totally different world for me!

Thank you for replying!

 

Murph,

Thank you. I believe I have sandpaper in my shed left over from old projects.

 

Kurtd123,

Thank you!  1/72 might be a little on the small side for me.  I took a quick look at the models and the DO335 is so ugly it’s cute! So maybe I’ll think about picking up that little guy. I can pick up paints hobby supplies locally since my work is a block from a hobby shop that I’ve bought some Gundam models from. However I always feel unwelcomed going in. So I’m more comfortable getting stuff online.  I guess maybe it’s my gender since I have the same problem at video game stores.

Thank you for the advice!

 

Scaremonger, Thank you for the welcome! My screen name is from a song by the Swedish band Ghost after my favorite song from them.

I can’t ask my father for advice since he passed away six years ago.

I have been looking at some prop models as well. The Revell JU-87 Tank Buster looks fun! I know my father built one for me years ago and it was neat.

Thank you again for the warm welcome!

 

As for paints safety is my number one goal.  Because I work with biohazards everyday I’m really careful with anything toxic.

Thank you everyone for all the advice!

 

Lisa

  

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ZombieQueen, who works in a "bloodborne pathogens lab"... now that's kind of impressive, and also freaking me out.  :)

 

Nothing to add tools-wise, but I'll offer this important advice: be satisfied with imperfection! Otherwise you'll end up like me, with a closet full of half-built kits and not much completed to enjoy. A dark, Edgar Allan Poe sort of place.  :)

 

Finish your builds even when they have problems. A key principle.

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On 06/11/2016 at 8:47 PM, ZombieQueen said:

I am new around here and usually don't building models, apart from an odd Gundam kit. I picked up a 2002 boxing it appears of the Monogram 1/48 Delta Dagger. Working at a laboratory till two in the morning has its drawbacks. So I figured maybe I'll take up a new hobby to occupy my lonely night. I've always had an interest in aircraft since my father built a lot of models when I was younger. I built a few during my childhood yet never pursed it since not many females build models.

 

So now on to my questions on how to proceed. 

 

My building tools or lack of leave a lot to be desired. I have I guess you can call them sprue cutters? From my jewelry making. I have regular blades I use for my crafts and a cutting mat. I have emery boards I guess I could use. However I'm not sure if I should get something better? Are there any other tools that are must have? The ones I listed above get me by on my Gundam kits.

 

My next big question is just how much work is this model? If I recall it seemed the Monogram kits took more work than other manufactures or at least they did when my father built them.

 

What's the best paint brand and way to paint it? I know my father airbrushed everything. I have an air-compressor in my shed; however I know airbrushes are pretty pricey. I was planning on at least brush painting the interior of the model. 

 

Should I try something easier first? Since I will admit the size of the model is a little bigger than I expected.

 

That's all the questions I can think of at the moment. Any other advice will be appreciated.

 

Thank you,

 

Lisa 

 

G'day Lisa and welcome aboard,

 

I agree with what all the others have posted but will add:

 

  • A good hobby knife is a must. Although hobby shops sell these, they are also available in other craft supply shops that do scrap booking etc. Avoid the slide type Stanley and box cutter knives that you can break off the blades, they lack control. A good no.11 blade (the standard triangular shape) will be your most useful tool.
  • Sanding sticks - I usually buy the nail shaping/buffing sticks from the grocery store. You can spend a fortune on dedicated model sanding sticks but I supplement the nail files with a few sheets of various grade wet'n'dry sandpaper available from hardware chain stores for a couple of bucks each. I would recommend getting 400, 600, 800, 1200 and 1600 grade. Start off with a coarse grade i.e the 400 grit and work your way higher. if you plan on building a few more models, then a set of fine jeweller's files will be very useful. I also would recommend a good set of sharp tweezers. Finally toothpicks are great for holding small parts while you paint them.
  • You mentioned that you are applying paint with a 'hairy stick' (paintbrush). I don't know what paints you have available, but I am guessing that Model Master would be available. The acrylics are water soluble and less toxic but be aware that acrylics can be difficult to apply evenly over a large area as they tend to dry quickly and form a 'skin' which can leave brush marks. The enamels do smell, but their longer drying time means they are more forgiving to apply by brush. open a window and I think you will be okay. Personally, I airbrush anything larger than a dime. I will always use a brush for fine detail painting though.  Once you have an airbrush you will not go back!
  • The size is about right, 1/72 can be fiddly. If this kit has personal connection to you and you want a really good result, I would start on something else first. There is nothing wrong with using this kit, but your first kit is probably going to have some areas that you will want to do better next time. If it is just a stepping stone kit then fine. The biggest issue is that this kit has been around for a long time and engineering standards have improved a lot since then with regards to fit. The details are actually pretty nice but some areas like the wing to fuselage join could be better. For a really nice fitting kit I would recommend any of the 1/48 Tamiya aircraft kits and some of the propeller kits can be bought for a very reasonable price. If the jets appeal, these are also very nicely engineered but these kits have a lot more parts and cost a little more. Tamiya kits are widely known for their excellent fit and clear instructions.
  • I get the whole girl in a model shop thing. My missus makes the occasional kit (spacecraft) and I find it a little offensive when the store clerk talks down to her (or talks to her chest) or talks to me when she asks a question - WTF?
  • if you manage to get the modelling bug and want to really get better quickly, I would recommend joining your local model club (if there is one) as you will get useful advice and critique from people who have already made the mistakes so that you don't have to.
  • Enjoy the build
  • Finally, we need to see pictures or it didn't happen :P

cheers,

 

Pappy

  •  

 

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Hi Lisa,

 

First of all, there's been a lot of good advice offered so far and i don't disagree with any of it.

 

A couple of other tools/ supplies that i recommend for your arsenal:

 

1) A selection of plastic strip stock, maybe .010 and .015 thick. Evergreen makes this in a vast array of sizes and shapes.

 

I recommend this because the Monogram F-102 and F-106 made a lot of use of "Rabate Joints" where one half of the vertical fin is nested inside of the other half when its glued together. The same applies for the upper-lower wing assembly where the lower wing/ center fuselage nests inside the one piece upper wing.

 

Where these two parts come together, there is often a problem with the two pieces not being quite level with each other; not sitting at the same "height". Attempting to correct this mismatch with putty doesn't really work; You obliterate tons of surface detail in the process, the two surfaces still aren't really flush with one another, and you're left with big swaths of filler putty that might not be covered over easily with lighter-colored paints. I think a lot of lazy model builders just haphazardly glue parts together and figure that if they slather enough putty on it, it will make up for a sloppy fit. Sometimes that works, sometimes that doesn't. Kinda underscored the importance of test fitting.

 

2) The other supply/ tool i recommend is super glue (Cyanoacrylate). This stuff is awesome for gap filling. When applied carefully, it dries quickly and is relatively easy to sand. It doesn't shrink over time, and it doesn't have air bubbles. As long as you sand it reasonably soon, it dries to an approximate hardness of the of the surrounding plastic. I get the best results my mixing the medium viscosity with the thin viscosity, which results in good flow (capilary action) characteristics, and enough "body" without being too rock-hard to sand.

 

The trick is, less is definitely more. You need a tool like a piece of wire to apply the glue in very minute amounts, exactly where you want it. You can opt to use a accelerator, but its not mandatory. The big advantage is you can fill seams much more quickly and efficiently. Putties can take days if not weeks to dry completely. Some never really dry in fact.

 

And that thin plastic strip i mentioned? It makes EXCELLENT filler material. If the gap is big enough to drive a truck though, wedge in a piece of strip, super glue it in place, then nibble, carve, file, and sand away the excess, until you have a filled joint.

 

3) Something else that comes in VERY useful for filling 90-degree joints is a product called Mr. Surfacer 500. You apply this stuff with a brush, let it dry, and then go back with a Q-tip swab and Mr. Color Thinner, which is a mild, slow evaporating lacquer thinner. You just swab away the excess Mr Surfacer and you are left with a perfectly filled joint. It does "Fog" the surface of the plastic as little bit but paint will cover over that. You can get these on Amazon.com.

 

I suggested/ outlined a couple of the more advanced tools of the trade for seam and gap filling, and all i ask of you is to just think about these as you cut the model from the sprues, test fit and tape it together. Hopefully by doing so it will better explain why i made the suggestions i did.

 

The F-102 is a wonderful subject. A very wide range of markings options to choose from. Please keep us appraised of your progress :)

 

david

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Hey ZQ,

 

I completely forgot that Enrico (Enrywar67) has a F-102 build going on right now, over in the in-progress pics section. In it there are some depictions of him using super glue as a filler. Worth checking out.

 

david

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Welcome,   It sounds like you are gonna give modeling a try.  That's great.  I'll just add two things to the long list of great advice that you have received.

 

First, Future floor wax will become your friend.  It's not actually floor wax.  It's a clear, acrylic coating that has many uses in modeling.  It is glossy, but you can

add other "stuff" to make it anything from gloss to flat and anything in between.  It has a thousand uses.

 

Second, I'll mention airbrushes.  Depending on how much you want to get into the hobby will depend on what you want in an airbrush.  I started with a Paasche H, single action airbrush and have used it for many years.  There are "professionals" that use single action airbrushes and have never used anything else.  If you want to start with a double action airbrush, try something like a Neo for Iwata.  It's a nice airbrush that won't bankrupt you. If you can, stick with Paasche and/or Badger.  They are made in the USA.  Parts are readily available, inexpensive, and good quality.  You could also go the route of purchasing a cheap, Chinese airbrush from Harbor Freight.  They are so inexpensive, that if you get a bad one, you are only out about $20.00.  The downside of this route is that you don't want to get disappointed and give up on airbrushes.  Personally, if this is not going to be a serious hobby, stick with one of the Paasche or Badger single action  airbrushes.

 

Anyone could write a book on starting out with the "correct" tools for starting  into modeling.  The great thing is that you have chosen ARC for advice.  You will get plenty of good, free advice on modeling.  Go to the Home page and looks into Tools 'n Tips and several other places for advice.  Good Luck and Welcome.

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Good morning,

 

Apologies for the late response. My work has been overwhelmed the past couple of weeks due to snowbirds.Everyone that has migrated from the north decided they need blood checked suddenly I suppose.

 

punder, I guess the job fits me pretty well. I've always been a tad on the dark side so working with bio hazards is a good fit. Plus after being in retail for four years and two as a manager its nice working alone. Blood doesn't talk back to you which is nice.

 

I'm afraid I'll strive for perfection even if I don't try to. Its been pretty much ingrained into me however one can always change her ways.

 

Pappy, I already have a decent hobby blade I picked up at a hobby shop for my Gundam kits. Which reminds me I need to pick up some new blades soon. I guess I'm covered on sanding sticks since I have a lot that I use for me. And I have looked at the ones hobby shops sell which are crazy expensive. As for paints I have available in town at a Hobby Town are Tamiya acrylics and spray cans which I understand are lacquer. I'm not sure one which Model Master they carried either acrylic or  enamel. 

 

As for building the Dagger first. I am going to hold off for now, just looking how it fits isn't the best. I have been looking at different Tamiya aircraft while on lunch at work. And while the jet aircraft look nice, they are a little too much for me at the moment. The the Zero kits look sort of neat and not that expensive. So maybe one of those would be a good first kit?

 

Thank you

 

David,  Thank you! I already have super glue on hand, comes in handy for nails and repairing broken action figures. Thank you again for the help!

 

balls47, thank you for the help. I have been looking at airbrushes as well. I'm going to wait before deciding to get one or not right now. 

 

Thank you again everyone for the help! Right now I think I've chosen my first kit Tamiy's 1/48 Zero A6M3 Hamp. I know the hobby shop next to my work has it for under thirteen dollars. I'll pick it up this Wednesday so I'll have something to do over the holiday since I have four days off and don't celebrate thanksgiving or do black Friday shopping. 

 

Regards,

 

Lisa

 

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2 hours ago, ZombieQueen said:

Good morning,

 

Apologies for the late response. My work has been overwhelmed the past couple of weeks due to snowbirds.Everyone that has migrated from the north decided they need blood checked suddenly I suppose.

 

punder, I guess the job fits me pretty well. I've always been a tad on the dark side so working with bio hazards is a good fit. Plus after being in retail for four years and two as a manager its nice working alone. Blood doesn't talk back to you which is nice.

 

I'm afraid I'll strive for perfection even if I don't try to. Its been pretty much ingrained into me however one can always change her ways.

 

Pappy, I already have a decent hobby blade I picked up at a hobby shop for my Gundam kits. Which reminds me I need to pick up some new blades soon. I guess I'm covered on sanding sticks since I have a lot that I use for me. And I have looked at the ones hobby shops sell which are crazy expensive. As for paints I have available in town at a Hobby Town are Tamiya acrylics and spray cans which I understand are lacquer. I'm not sure one which Model Master they carried either acrylic or  enamel. 

 

As for building the Dagger first. I am going to hold off for now, just looking how it fits isn't the best. I have been looking at different Tamiya aircraft while on lunch at work. And while the jet aircraft look nice, they are a little too much for me at the moment. The the Zero kits look sort of neat and not that expensive. So maybe one of those would be a good first kit?

 

Thank you

 

David,  Thank you! I already have super glue on hand, comes in handy for nails and repairing broken action figures. Thank you again for the help!

 

balls47, thank you for the help. I have been looking at airbrushes as well. I'm going to wait before deciding to get one or not right now. 

 

Thank you again everyone for the help! Right now I think I've chosen my first kit Tamiy's 1/48 Zero A6M3 Hamp. I know the hobby shop next to my work has it for under thirteen dollars. I'll pick it up this Wednesday so I'll have something to do over the holiday since I have four days off and don't celebrate thanksgiving or do black Friday shopping. 

 

Regards,

 

Lisa

 

 

G'day Lisa,

 

You are gonna love it.

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

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I can not add much to the advice you ahve already been given, but your location does say Tucson, Az so you have a great resource with the Pima Air and space museum right there, if you need inspiration or the real thing for reference. 

 

The only thing I can offer is if you have a kit you are interested in, is to ask about it. Until you are around the hobby for a while it can be hard to tell how old a particular kit is, a 1970s Tamiya or Hasegawa kit can be pretty challenging.

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Lisa, I will add my voice to the chorus welcoming you to ARC and airplane modeling in general! Having been in the hobby (off and on, took a 15-20 year "break" in the mid '90's) since the late '60's, I can assure you that it is rewarding and relaxing (although sometimes it can be a headache, carpet monster and airbrush, I'm looking squarely at you!). :sunrevolves:

 

Concerning sanding sticks, it is true that name brand sticks that have a defined grit can be expensive. However, you can frequently find multi-grit sticks that are designed for nail polishing for $2 or so at Wal-Mart. They usually don't have very coarse grits, but they are perfect for polishing canopies/clear parts etc. Emery boards will provide the coarser grit you may need for general sanding purposes and they are also fairly cheap. Wal-Mart (or other discount stores) is also a good source for sandpaper, I've found some nice selections at my local Home Depot. Just stay way from the really coarse stuff, as you don't want to etch trenches in your project.

 

The best thing about model building is that many of the items you have around your home already, may have more or less use in the building of your models. I have used all sorts of household items and now before I throw anything out, I look at with a critical eye to see if it may be of any use before making the decision to do so. For example, I maintain a stash of empty pill bottles (the kind from the pharmacy) to mix and store thinned paint in. Also things such as hypodermics, can be used to measure paint/thinner or even the needles can be used for hollow tubing, for pitots, gun barrels, etc. depending upon your chosen scale. Also, many items from other modeling genres, such as railroading or car modeling, can be used successfully. I hope this is of some use to you and again welcome aboard!

 

Rick

 

 

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On 6/11/2016 at 7:50 PM, ZombieQueen said:

Scaremonger, Thank you for the welcome! My screen name is from a song by the Swedish band Ghost after my favorite song from them.

I can’t ask my father for advice since he passed away six years ago.

I have been looking at some prop models as well. The Revell JU-87 Tank Buster looks fun! I know my father built one for me years ago and it was neat.

Thank you again for the warm welcome!

 

First is first; sorry to hear about your paps passing, really ought to have weighed that possibility before suggesting it.

Swedish bands I'm familiar with are mostly those Gothic Metal ones; my all-fave one being Beseech, but I also use to listen to Amaran, Therion and some Opeth when the mood arises. 'Course are all metal bands no-one of my girls (or even my neighbours) could ever seem to stand while I'm listening to... :rolleyes: Not that I ever cared, tho.

Have a taste of it.

 

 

The Otaki 1/48 F-6F kit is still a great kit which, surprisingly, has the correct shape of the front cowling that is SO bloody wrong on many of those mainstream, expensive kit manufacturers.

Cheers, L!

Henka

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Hello,

Well the sprue cutters and an X-acto knife is the foundation of the basics, I would suggest a set of swiss pattern files, a sanding block and some 120 grit sand paper, and some girly things like finger nail files and those little sanding boards you use.......they are great for sanding and filing. With those basic things you can make things flat and square and since most things come in halves in aircraft kits you're gonna need to keep things flat and things will fit better.

The F-106 is one of my favorite subjects and I've built many of the Monogram F-106. It's a tough kit because it does have fit issues, especially where the lower half of the fuselage mates to the upper fuselage and where the lower half of the wing mate

to the upper wing. What I do to correct the wing is I cut the flaps out where they mate to the lower fuselage, I replace the flaps when I'm finished with the model. Now to fix the fuselage fit issues. The fuselage doesn't fit very well because the upper fuselage is a little warped. You can correct a lot of this by making sure the mating surfaces of the upper and lower fuselage are flat and square. When you're ready to start putting things together, start at the rear of the fuselage where the afterburner is and work your way to the nose. I like to cement one side of the afterburner section and square it up, let it dry, then do the other side. When the aft part has dried you can start moving your way up tp the nose section. You'll need some good liquid cement either Tenax 7 or Flex-I-File Plast-i-Weld, you can get the later at Hobby Lobby, you'll also need a medium size brush to apply the glue. Be! PATIENT!! Happy modeling

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  • 3 weeks later...

Good evening everyone,

 

Sorry again for the late response. I have been working sixty hours a week so my energy has been gone. My work finally started slowing down this week so now I have some free time. I finally picked three other models up today while at the mall. A toy store as having a clearance sell and out of curiosity I went in. They had a few models that were marked down sixty to seventy percent. After looking them over for twenty minutes I ended up buying a Hasegawa 1/72 Yak-3, Tamiya 1/48 Gloster Meteor F.1 with a V-1 flying bomb and another Tamiya 1/48 Heinkel He219 A-7 UHU. Looking them over I might build the Yak or Meteor, the HE219 I'm not even going to try yet because of the camouflage and antennas. I am making a list of supplies I'll need for either the Yak or Meteor tomorrow since I have to go back into town. And maybe just maybe I'll get the Hamp as well.

 

Kurt H, funny you should mention the Pima museum as I was considering going there in a couple of weeks. 

 

Rick,  Thank you for the welcome and the advice!

 

Henka, No need to apologize at all. While I haven't heard of Beseech I like what I'm hearing. I usually listen to 80's new wave or 80's goth at work however looks like I'll have to add this to my playlist.

 

gunsight, thank you for the advice. And that F-106 looks amazing thank you for sharing.

 

David, what is making me think about the Hamp is the paint scheme for it. Truth be told I've liked the aircraft ever since I looked at one of my fathers Tamiya catalogues. As states above maybe I'll pick it up tomorrow.

 

Lisa:wave:

 

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I have been keeping up with this thread with some interest and want to continue with the encouragement!  Finds something that strikes your fancy that doesn't have a thousand parts and build it!  I think Hobby Boss has some 1/48 Easy Assembly kits that might fill the bill nicely!  This will give you a finished product quickly and allow you to learn the basics without risking lots of money and time.

 

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