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removing rubber masking compound

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Further to Winnie's suggestion, you could also whittle a piece of wood into a wooden chisel of sorts. Something similar to this:



(except the one above has sandpaper stuck to it. But you can see below the sandpaper, how tapered the wood is.  Should be useful for scraping away masking compound, etc)

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5 hours ago, JackMan said:

Further to Winnie's suggestion, you could also whittle a piece of wood into a wooden chisel of sorts.

Toothpicks and sandwich picks are useful bases for this purpose. A couple of swipes with a #11 blade and you're done. I've done this to remove Parafilm, Frisket, and tape-based masks without scratching clear plastic or paint. They're also good for burnishing mask edges when you need to get into a tight corner.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've used liquid mask a few times when masking with tape was difficult, or when no pre-cut masks were available.  Try to maintain an even, light touch with a toothpick that you've formed into a wee chisel.  Sometimes you may have to pick away at the mask and use tweezers to remove small pieces of it.  The worst thing you can do is press so hard that you push the clear piece inside.  This isn't a disaster on the scale of the Titanic or Hindenberg, but you'll wish you hadn't done it.  If the opening is less than about 1/4 inch, you can wait until you're finished everything else and use Micro Kristal Klear or white glue (which dries clear) to make a new window.  If the opening is odd-shaped or larger than 1/4 inch, you can cut out a section of the airplane, find and retrieve the window, glue it back in, glue in the section you removed, fill and refinish.  I was getting cocky the other day and wasn't careful enough while masking a 1/72 Twin Otter's cockpit side window and pushed it in.  It disappeared into the bird's bowels.  Luckily, the window was in the door, so I simply cut out the door.  While I was cutting, I pushed in the side window on the other side!!!  :rolleyes:  I managed to glue that one back in by working through the door I'd removed.  Now I'm afraid to touch the windows, and I haven't even started painting.  Have fun. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yessir,   I may be preaching to the choir here, but don't use it on anything acrylic.  The two may become one.  Anyway, I use the blue Humbrol Maskol at times.  I put down a first coat and let it dry until it's sticky, but won't come off to the touch.  Then put one a second, heavier coat and go almost to the edge, but not quite.  It may level down to the edge.  Also, on this second coat, I stick a piece of toothpick into the wet, blue Maskol. (I break a piece of the toothpick off and stick the broken end into the goo.  Put the pointy end up.)   Let this piece of you use start to dry into the Maskol.  I add another coat or so and paint the Maskol right up the piece of piece of toothpick.  I like toothpicks, because they are a little bit porous and the Maskol grabs onto it better.  When it's dry and you are ready to pull the Maskol off, don't pull it straight up.  I usually give is a little bit of downward pressure and move or kinda stir it around a little bit to break it free from the plastic.  After you do this a couple of time, you will see what I mean.  If you keep some downward pressure and move it around, you will know when it's ready to pop off.  Try it on a scrap piece.  Again, the secret is to get a good, THICK coat so that it can pull off in one chuck.  I also use a liquid masking agent that I got through Micro Mark.  It's kind of a light mint green color.  I add a little food coloring to it so it shows up better.  This stuff is more like Elmer's glue.  It works fine for a

liquid mask.  Good Luck!!! 

Edited by balls47
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