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1:72 Revell RAH-66 Comanche


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Hi,

This is my 3rd model after return to hobby. IMHO the best one from all of them (i think it was time to do it right:rolleyes:)
Biggest minor is that i had unforunately once again put some paint on canopy despite using maskol and Tamiya masking tape
My masking was very carefull and paint marks are in the middle of glass so maybe my maskol get into reaction with paint? I don't know, maybe someone will be so keen to write little tutorial how to good mask such clear parts in attack helos?
Another mistake is vivible connecting line of 2 hull halves which i wasn't able to delete using various sand papers.
During building i also cover my preshading to much and i was forced to do postshading (base color with couple drops with of Humbrol sand).

Anothe chemicals which i used were:

Model Master Enamel Helo Drab-base colour

Mr. Surfacer 1200-primer

Some Humbrol enamels for cockpit and missiles 

Humbrol gloss and matt varnish

Gunze decals fluids

BTW I paintned Hellfires missiles in Olive Drab because dacals for them were black...

Any comments ale welcome :thumbsup:
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Nice work. 

 

For the canopy, drip the glass in future first. I use the Tamiya tape for the edges and cheap painters tape for the middle. I am not a fan of liquid masks myself. Though I have seen others use them with no issues.

 

HTH

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23 minutes ago, Tank said:

Nice work. 

 

For the canopy, drip the glass in future first. I use the Tamiya tape for the edges and cheap painters tape for the middle. I am not a fan of liquid masks myself. Though I have seen others use them with no issues.

 

HTH

I heard about Future but i had problems with it. After i put my canopy in such liquid, it dried and when i tried to use mask the Future liquid started to fall off the glass part...maybe you have any solution?

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I don't know if you can use a liquid mask on a futured canopy. Seems not by what you are saying. I think the issue is the future creates a flat surface, where you get the clarity so there is nothing for the mask to bite into to stay. 

 

My only other thoughts would be not enough liquid at the edges or not enough drying time for the mask. 

 

Sorry I can't be of more help.

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Personally, as much as I like the idea of liquid mask, I can never seem to make it work like it is supposed to.  Perhaps that is more my ineptitude as a modeler, but I find Tamiya tape is best for me.  Also, I have had pretty good luck lately when i remove the tape right after spraying my model with whatever finish I am using (ie gloss, flat, etc.).  It seems the wet finish really allows the mask to come away without removing underlying paint.  Anyone else try this?  

    Ray

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