Can anyone recommend a really good airbrush?

[caudleryan]

Hello everyone. First, I hope all of you have a wonderful Christmas! Me looking to get into the christmas spirit, I'm looking to buy a new airbrush as a gift to myself. What I am looking for is a double action, gravity feed airbrush. Something that is easy to disassemble and clean.  I have been using a H&S evolution for a couple of years now, but it is starting to spit out paint instead of spraying. I have tried everything that I know of, but to no avail. So, any suggestions would be great and truly appreciated. Badger, Iwata, H&S, I'm open to pretty much any brand. I'd love to hear your thoughts on what you use and why you would recommend it. 

Thank you for reading.

 

Ryan.

Edited December 24, 2016 by caudleryan

[Joerg]

Ryan,

 

Have you tried replacing the nozzle and needle of your Evolution for a cheap fix? Doesn't the Evolution come with 2 different nozzle sizes anyways? 

I use several airbrushes myself: my standard airbrush is an Evolution too, because it sprays well and is the easiest to clean. That said I also use an Iwata HP-BH, which I alsolutely love. For detail work this is the weapon of choice - it is just mind-blowingly precise. Regarding cleaning it is a little more effort than the Evolution as the actual nozzle is screwed to the body and you are not supposed to unscrew it every time. I use cleaning sprays for the Iwata.

 

HTH

 

Cheers,

Joerg

[caudleryan]

I tried both nozzles and both needles. It still spits out paint for some reason.

[Paul Budzik]

Unless you've damaged the main structure of the Evolution, there shouldn't be any reason to prevent you from getting it up an going again.  You might also check your airflow (hose, regulator, etc.) as well as your paint.

But it you want a new airbrush that is easy to clean and actually designed for the type of paints we use, I would suggest the iwata Eclipse HP-CS.

 

 

Paul

 

 

[86Sabreboy1]

Since the original poster asked an open question, here's my preferred choices. If a pistol grip Tritium TG3 isn't your cup of tea then perhaps the traditional gravity feed Genesis XGi3 is more to your liking. Same internal parts design for both airbrush styles, easy parts identification, same adaptability, Same ease of cleaning, both can be configured to different needle sizes and if a fan cap interests you that works too. Great customer service if you have a problem. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[breadneck]

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAwA12lTKps

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oQsJjd6jBg

 

Edited December 25, 2016 by breadneck

[caudleryan]

That pistol grip grex looks tasty. A couple of questions, though. Is there any kind of resistance when you pull back on the trigger? Is it a really smooth pull action, or is there .....how can I say it, any kind of resistance when you first try to pull back on the trigger? I hope that makes any sense, that's about as best as I can explain my question.  My other question about the grex airbrush  is what does the fan cap do? I haven't heard about this and it seems interesting. Thank you for the suggestions so far. I apologize for so many questions. 

 

 

[86Sabreboy1]

2 hours ago, caudleryan said:

That pistol grip grex looks tasty. A couple of questions, though. Is there any kind of resistance when you pull back on the trigger? Is it a really smooth pull action, or is there .....how can I say it, any kind of resistance when you first try to pull back on the trigger? I hope that makes any sense, that's about as best as I can explain my question.  My other question about the grex airbrush  is what does the fan cap do? I haven't heard about this and it seems interesting. Thank you for the suggestions so far. I apologize for so many questions. 

 

 

There is a slight resistance. Like any airbrush there are springs to return the trigger (pistol Grip or traditional) to the full "closed" position. Without any spring action once the trigger is pulled the needle would stay retracted in the fluid nozzle and paint would flow in a variety of undesirable ways.

 

The pistol grip has two stages. The first stage is the same as the downward push on a traditional style airbrush. In other words, it establishes the airflow. At the point where the 2nd stage engages there is a slight increase in resistance. This is where paint begins to flow. The more pull in the 2nd stage the more paint flow. For fine line work just thing of it like riding the clutch on a stick shift car. A slight increase or decrease in finger pressure will cause paint to flow or not flow. The needle has a very straight taper which makes very fine line work easily obtainable. I recommend the .3mm configuration for paint, especially if you use acrylics. 

 

If trigger "resistance" is an issue for you, keep in mind with the pistol grip design you are using more muscle groups in your hand and wrist and "bigger" muscles than with at traditional style airbrush. The difference in spring rates between the two are negligible, it's just a matter of getting used to holding the airbrush differently. Those that suffer from hand issues or cramping of the finger or hand have found the pistol grip to be much more comfortable.

 

As for the fan cap I think this video will explain it's capabilities. whether its "for you" or not is your call of course. A number of aircraft guys have found it very useful, especially with some of the large scale kits like the 1/48 scale Concord and XB-70. The fan cap has been a huge benefit for large subjects that are mostly one consistent color.  

 

 

As for cleaning of the airbrush (in terms of ease of cleaning) here's another video-

 

 

Full disassembly is easy too, just follow the steps-

 

 

Edited December 25, 2016 by 86Sabreboy1

[caudleryan]

Excellent explanation! The video about the fan cap was most helpful and answered my question. It would be very useful to me as I build a lot of car and truck models as well as aircraft. Thank you for your feedback. I think I might go with the pistol grip grex. I have the beginning stages of carpel tunnel in my right hand, so a pistol grip may be easier to work with.  As soon as I have the funds to do so, it's juuussst out of reach money wise at the moment. Thank you all for the fast and very helpful responses.

[dnl42]

A fan tip is really nice for "full coverage" coats, like primer and clear. I have one on an Iwata Kustom TH. I love that airbrush!

[86Sabreboy1]

5 hours ago, caudleryan said:

Excellent explanation! The video about the fan cap was most helpful and answered my question. It would be very useful to me as I build a lot of car and truck models as well as aircraft. Thank you for your feedback. I think I might go with the pistol grip grex. I have the beginning stages of carpel tunnel in my right hand, so a pistol grip may be easier to work with.  As soon as I have the funds to do so, it's juuussst out of reach money wise at the moment. Thank you all for the fast and very helpful responses.

If carpel tunnel is an issue there is something else to consider, perhaps after getting the airbrush. There is the Grex GGS3 grip customization kit. You can mold the grip any way you want for a personalized fit. The kit comes with an extra plastic grip (slightly different to the  Tritium grip for you to choose from) and molding material. Instructions explain how to make your own grip. If money is limited, get the airbrush first and get used to it and then consider the grip kit and/or fan cap. 

 

 

[caudleryan]

It's not too much of an issue at the moment, just numbness and a tingling sensation. So the pistol grip should be enough. I'll probably wait until income tax season gets here to buy that one.  Until then, I might buy an Iwata revolution cr. I had one years ago and it was a good airbrush, just didn't spray really smooth.

[MacStingy]

On December 24, 2016 at 0:09 PM, Paul Budzik said:

Unless you've damaged the main structure of the Evolution, there shouldn't be any reason to prevent you from getting it up an going again.  You might also check your airflow (hose, regulator, etc.) as well as your paint.

But it you want a new airbrush that is easy to clean and actually designed for the type of paints we use, I would suggest the iwata Eclipse HP-CS.

 

 

Paul

 

 

+1 my weapon of choice.

[admiralcag]

The Eclipse gets my vote.

 

Vern

[86Sabreboy1]

3 hours ago, admiralcag said:

The Eclipse gets my vote.

 

Vern

I have two of them I never use. It's a nice airbrush, easy to clean but I got tired of having to buy a new trigger spring once a year. I used them so much the trigger would get mushy and fail to close the air valve completely when the trigger was released. I kept them immaculate with full tear downs to include the air valve assembly so I know it wasn't a cleaning issue. 

[Janissary]

1 hour ago, 86Sabreboy1 said:

I have two of them I never use. It's a nice airbrush, easy to clean but I got tired of having to buy a new trigger spring once a year. I used them so much the trigger would get mushy and fail to close the air valve completely when the trigger was released. I kept them immaculate with full tear downs to include the air valve assembly so I know it wasn't a cleaning issue. 

I used to have a similar problem with my iwata revolution. The air and paint used to keep spraying slightly after releasing the trigger. It was so frustrating when doing detail painting. Somebody suggested machine Oil and it worked wonderfully. Just a single drop of oil where the trigger's bottom pin sits in the airbrush. Then place the trigger back, give it a few pumps; problem solved. 

[Paul Budzik]

 

2 hours ago, 86Sabreboy1 said:

I have two of them I never use.

 

Of course you don't ... you work for Grex 

[86Sabreboy1]

1 hour ago, Paul Budzik said:

 

 

Of course you don't ... you work for Grex 

Had that not been a problem I might never have looked at Grex as a consumer. I wanted something better and found it. It was getting annoying having to special order a spring that should've been $.50 for $6.00 a pop. I've never had a similar problem with a Grex spring, trigger spring or otherwise and that includes my demo brushes which get used relentlessly year after year. I have yet to replace a valve assembly, the things are bullet proof. 

Edited December 27, 2016 by 86Sabreboy1

[Paul Budzik]

What else would a Grex employee say?

[Bob Beary]

Easy does it Doc :)

 

Bryant,

 

As I understand it from the Grex site, the TG series comes with either a .2, .3 or .5 needle/nozzle combination..TG2, TG3 or TG5.

 

To convert it to the .3 fan tip, do I need only the fan tip for that model?

 

I would most likely opt for the TG3, but if I wanted to reconfigure it for a .5 fan tip, what else do I need?  Just the fan tip or a .5 needle, nozzle and fan tip?

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

 

 

Edited December 27, 2016 by Bob Beary
spelling

[86Sabreboy1]

1 hour ago, Paul Budzik said:

What else would a Grex employee say?

 

I don't know. I wasn't an employee at the time I purchased my airbrushes. 

[86Sabreboy1]

1 hour ago, Bob Beary said:

Easy does it Doc :)

 

Bryant,

 

As I understand it from the Grex site, the TG series comes with either a .2, .3 or .5 needle/nozzle combination..TG2, TG3 or TG5.

 

To convert it to the .3 fan tip, do I need only the fan tip for that model?

 

I would most likely opt for the TG3, but if I wanted to reconfigure it for a .5 fan tip, what else do I need?  Just the fan tip or a .5 needle, nozzle and fan tip?

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

 

 

Bob,

 

Good question, you have the right idea. For the benefit of anyone interested in the fan cap, Grex makes three individual fan caps, the TF-3 (.3mm), TF-5 (.5mm) and TF-7 (.7mm). Grex also provides the fan caps in kits should the end user wish to change from one needle configuration to another. The kits are the TFK-3, TFK-5 and TFK-7. These kits include the corresponding fan cap, needle, fluid nozzle and nozzle cap (for normal airbrush performance). The fan caps and fan cap kits will work with the Tritium TG and TS series as well as the Genesis XGi and XSi series airbrushes as well. They unfortunately are not compatible with the older Genesis XD, XG, XN, XS or XT.

 

So for you Bob, if you wish to go from a .3mm needle configuration on the airbrush I recommend the TFK-5 Fan Cap Kit. If you already have the TK-5 nozzle kit then all you need is the TF-5 Fan Cap. 

 

For those that may already have nozzle kits, TK-3, TK-5 and/or TK-7 for the Tritium or New Genesis (XGi, XSi) who want the fan cap as well only need purchase the individual fan cap for the corresponding nozzle kit. In my experience and for any who wish to watch the YouTube video (see above post) the TF-3 fan cap is appropriate for most model subjects. I've utilized the TF-5 (.5mm) configuration to good effect painting full face racing helmets. It works well when spraying clear coats for that purpose. Be aware that with the TF-5 you need to have a compressor with good output. As a reference the Grex AC-1810 compressor produces .7 CFM. The TF-5 pushes the limits of that compressor. Any hobby compressor with lower output is really going to struggle. So check the capability of your compressor before making a fan cap purchase. If you have a shop or commercial compressor with higher output you'll be in good shape. For the TF-7 (.7mm) a high output shop grade compressor is imperative. The TF-7's intended market is for the automotive industry (detail, dent and scratch repair) to give some perspective as to it's capability. I would not suggest this fan cap for model building. 

[Bob Beary]

Great answer!!

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

[86Sabreboy1]

4 hours ago, Bob Beary said:

Great answer!!

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

 

If you have more questions you can email me. Our office is closed until after new years but I check my email daily in case a prior customer has a question or needs assistance.

 

bryant.dunbar@grexusa.com

[admiralcag]

On 12/27/2016 at 8:36 AM, 86Sabreboy1 said:

I have two of them I never use. It's a nice airbrush, easy to clean but I got tired of having to buy a new trigger spring once a year. I used them so much the trigger would get mushy and fail to close the air valve completely when the trigger was released. I kept them immaculate with full tear downs to include the air valve assembly so I know it wasn't a cleaning issue. 

Interesting. I have a similar problem with my Revolution, but have never had that problem with my Eclipse nor any Eclipse I have used. One of the modeling clubs I am in teaches kids to airbrush with Eclipses and we have never had an issue.

 

Vern