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phantom

NX-01 USS Enterprise

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Here is what I am starting January first. The Polar Lights 1/350 scale NX-01 USS Enterprise. I am going to toss in a 30 year old light set salvaged from a NCC-1701A Enterprise. The sound is not good. Some of the lights are wonky but hopefully I can get it to work. Also using after market decals for the various shades of metal on the sucker. LOTS of decals sheets in this pack.

 

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I have test fitted this guy around twenty times now. Looks like it should be a pretty easy build. The paint job appears to be what shall be the challenge.

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It all begins with the engines. I have to drill out holes, so the wires have some place to sit.

 

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Had to cut some wires so they will all fit when done. Hopefully I didn't screw up too bad.

 

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Easy to get the warp engines on the wrong pylons. So watch your instructions.

 

However pay attention and this is one easy build. Like real easy. Some putty may be needed as the joins are SO long but the fit is rather good.

 

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Main assembly all together. Now some paint . The warp engine to saucer join seems weak. Used a lot of super glue and now clamps are in place (not in photo) holding it all together. So far the lights work all though the starboard ones are very weak. Sound does not work but thats ok as they are meant for a Constitution class ship.

 

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The rear seems to have separated a tad. More super glue and clamps.

 

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Surprised how fast this guy went together. Box says 200 parts but by far most are the windows which take no time at all.

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200 parts maybe, but very SIMPLE parts and assembly!! Some light paint this morning, lunch a walk with the boss and decals begin.

 

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These after market decals are amazing. Beats the living snot out of trying to paint the complicated aztec pattern.

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Decals went on pretty fast too. At first I cut the bigger ones up but as time a confidence went up so did the size of the decals. They all went on with no issue what soever. Good thing I got the aftermarket set as the kit decals are well past there prime.

 

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The lights all worked except the green ones. Guess being 30 years old the wiring went bad.

 

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WOW! knocked that sucker out fast. And a homerun to boot. Great job! I've always actually liked the look of this ship. Better than the Excelsior class in my opinion and perhaps even better than the Abrams Enterprise.

 

Bill

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Thanks, the instructions had me thinking it was harder then it really was. It was quite a easy build.

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Unlike my carrier Enterprise...That one took around 3 or 4 months!

 

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Love it.  It's my favorite ship after the original.

 

A couple questions:

what was your base color?  The instructions call for a more silvery look, which it didn't have.

Where did you get the decal sheets for the hull panels?

How did you run the wires from the power to the ship?

I have the shuttle pods for the ship and was thinking about opening the pod doors.  I just can't find any aftermarket parts for tha.t

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Let's see, base colour is model master steel. The decals are Acreation. Picked them up in a hobby store in Toronto a couple years ago. The wires are cut from a barely functioning set from a 30 year old NCC-1701. Cut the wires out. Taped in place and run it off a single 9 volt battery. As for the shuttle Bay,  we'll...can't  help there.

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Thanks for the information. 

 

 I was going over the instruction sheet for colors and I saw copper labeled as "D".  I looked all over the instructions and did not find any reference to that color being used.  Usually when you see the NX on the DVDs, it appears to have a copper or bronze base and some photos look that way too therefore, some confusion. was caused.

 

I recently picked up a photo etch set for the shuttle bay and I already have a couple of the shuttle pods which I hope I can show coming out of the bat bay I have a lighting set that I got some time ago for this kit but it seemed a bit too bright   when I tested it.  I will also have to come up with some kind of heavier base for the ship to handle the power source.  How did you do the front of the nacelles, just paint the base with the spikes transparent red?  I considered something like that but woiuld coat the outer area flat.

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I just used Tamiya clear red, straight out of the bottle. On the insides. That way the plastic is not dulled down.

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