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On 3/12/2017 at 10:12 PM, tobiK said:

Good progress and clean job! Keep up the nice work!

Well, HAJO, do not wait too long. Just post other pics here so no one can compare, hehe.

 

 

 

Hajo is one of those light-speed builders, like Phantom. Once he gets started, it'll be done before the rest us even begin painting our cockpits. :) 

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33512310135_1e23ba1914_z.jpg

Here I found a stunning Foto from your Original!

Hope I could throw some mojo in here...

cheers!

 

Aaaaand one more of the 37+01, from Neuburg airshow in 2011. It had its grey camo at that time.

21775656980_c537ce1318_z.jpg

Edited by tobiK
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Thank you for the pictures. I had to check the pictures I took during the Open House and I found one. I didn't realize I had a picture of 37+01 in the Norm 90J scheme until today.

 

3701_11.jpg

 

The mojo is still there, but I am busy with other commitments right now.

Had a slight setback when I dropped the model, but was able to catch it my lap. Two days later, I noticed that the fuel vent nozzle was missing. When I built my man cave I was very smart and decided to use blue PVC flooring, as most kits are not molded in blue plastic. Out of my head, I've got four kits made out of blue plastic, all by Revell.

So after about 30 minutes of searching a blue piece on a blue floor, I finally found it and tried to reattach it with a pair of tweezers.

Guess what.... it launched into space. I could hear the impact, but it might have just been a riccochet before it went into orbit. I am still unsure if I should scavenge the pieces from a unstarted kit in my stash or scratch build it.

 

Edited by Lancer512
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I scavenged the fuel vent nozzle from an older reissue of the Italeri kit.

 

3701_13.jpg

 

 

I guess the donor kit is among the lesser known Revell kits. It's the reboxed Italeri/Testors F-4E/F/G kit. It has raised detail, and I solely bought it for the Norm 81 decals and the F-4G stuff.

 

3701_12.jpg

 

 

Edited by Lancer512
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I don't know that boxing but it is already enough when you mention TESTORS...as a teenager I build the 1/48 Testors F-4G and it was aweful.

Even the old ESCI Phantoms had a better fit and shape!

Hope you will not break that vent again!? Drilling hole and put a pin inside, what about that option?

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I am afraid that I would do more damage if I drill into that thin fuselage. I know I can't align a drill properly without a drill press.

It didn't work on the 1/72 scale F-18 horizontal stabilators, and they were twice as thick.

 

I just have to

60252061.jpg

when handling the model.

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I do know that old Revell kit and even have a nearly finished F-4F waiting at my parents home! All that´s missing to completion are the decals, but since the hiatus already lasts about 20 years I do have some doubts that it will be finished at all...

 

But I took the decals with me as Plan B for my planned F-4F-build! ;)

 

 

HAJO

Edited by Hajo L.
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  • 4 weeks later...

After a short break due to other commitments, I am back to hopefully finish this model in the next few weeks.

Very early in the build, I broke off the pitot tube for the stabilizer bellows. This was fixed with thin styrene rod and sanded to shape.

 

3701_15.jpg

 

 

I also continued on the cockpit section. The instrument coaming was sprayed black and the clear canopy parts were carefully attached with four drops of Tamiya Extra Thin.

 

3701_16.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by Lancer512
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Did you made a bath in future for the clear parts before glueing on? I m just afraid of fogging when applying tamiya cement without a coat of future an..

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No. Not on this model. On my Eurofighter Typhoon, which I am also curremntly building, I had a coat of Future applied by brush on the inside of the canopy. The Tamiya glue ate itself right through it. To save time, I used another forward canopy on that model, while I was able to save that canopy by sanding out the fogging at a later time.

 

Tamiya glue does only fog the clear parts where it is in contact with it. As there will be a frame painted on the clear part, I don't have a problem with that.

And if there is enough side clearance between the canopy and coaming, there will be no unwanted capillary action, exept where you want it to happen.

If you are afraid of fogging, you might want to try liquid styrene to attach canopies. But I've even used CA glue in the past for canopies. CA glue only fogs canopy when there is some oil from your skin left. If you clean the canopies before glueing, even CA is safe to use.

 

I also noticed there was a small gap in front of the canopy, and I've used my liquid styrene to fill that gap. It is drying as I type.

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Have you guys considered using white glue for clear parts? I can really recommend it, it dries crystal clear, can be removed without problems and even has some filler-quality...

 

 

HAJO

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Of course. I am using Micro Kristal Klear whenever there is danger of damaging the clear parts. But there are a few kits out there, where it just won't keep attached with white glue, aka PVA glue.

 

I rescribed the detail that was lost during sanding of the top seam. I know the AAR door does look a little different in real life, but at least it is there again.

 

3701_17.jpg

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I've decided to add some detail to the inside of the exhaust nozzles. This was simply done by adding 16 thin strips of styrene to each nozzle according to the petals on the outside. So there goes my intention to build OOB...

 

3701_18.jpg

 

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Spent the last day sanding and polishing out some damage to the canopies.

Sometime between March 20, and March 28th, I accidently sprayed some solvent over my workbench. When I got back to continue on this model, i noticed it was full of small specks, like glue marks all over the model.

 

3701_14a.jpg

 

That did not bother me, as I was going to prime the model, anyway.

UNLESS... I found that it was also on the canopies, which were over a foot away from the fuselage.

 

Needless to say, that I've tried polishin and dipping it in Future, but to no avail. I ended up sanding out the blemishes, which was followed by Novus 3 and 2. During that proces, I've also rebuilt the missing RH forward corner of the aft canopy with CA glue. The canopies have been dipped once in Future and are not crystal klar, but after sanding the distortions are much better than what Revell provided OOB.

 

3701_19.jpg

 

 

One major flaw with this kit is the rear canopy, which is too short and too narrow. But as I am going to build the model with both canopies open, that is not a factor for me.

 

3701_20.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Poor boy, you have to tackle that aweful Revell dog....I am happy that I do quarterscale and could take the one piece canopies from the Hase kits if wanted. ;-)

But anyway, you do a good job on the cheap Spooky!

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