Dremel and Resin

[dsahling]

I know some blocks of resin just simply need to be cut with a saw manually, but for grinding and fitting does the dremel make it easier (in some instances obviously)?

 

Thoughts?

 

Dan

[viper730]

yes but if possible wet sanding is best. resin dust is a PITA so a mask and some water are handy(read necessary)....If you have a dremel flex shaft extension you can grind in a large bowl of water.  just be sure you dry the extension thoroughly how do I know ......let me introduce you to Rusty!

[dnl42]

Because of the dire warnings about resin dust, I never mill or grind resin with power tools, only hand tools.

 

A Zona razor saw will get through large pour blocks quite easily.

[ChippyWho]

Yessir, PUR dust is carcinogenic -avoid these new-fangled electrical devices that city folk use, and keep everything wet! It's a pity because some of these casting blocks are like tombstones, but think of all the lovely detail you're adding to your project...and how long you'll be around to appreciate it! 

[Mike J. Idacavage]

I believe the major problem with the resin dust is the actual small dust particles themselves rather than the base chemistry of the resin. I use a Dremel to grind out large sections of solid resin parts when needed. It really speeds up the process on the bench. I do use a dust mask when I grind but I do not do this under water. I tend to be safety conscious due to my day job and am comfortable with using my Dremel to speed up tasks like this.

Have fun modeling!

Mike

[Cloud in the Wind]

I’m a visual guy. Has anyone made or found a YouTube video relating to building with resin models related to our hobby?  My searches have never resolved good results in that area, and so I haven’t built any of the kits in my stash. 

[dnl42]

It's not actually hard to build a resin model. You need to separate the parts from the pour blocks and make sure you've cleaned all mold release from the parts. I use 91% Isopropyl. Sometimes, you're removing a large part from a large pour block, needing some aggressive cutting. Other times, it's a delicate part from a relatively large pour block, needing delicate cutting. Aggressive cutting can use a "Zona" saw. Medium and delicate cutting can use a JLC saw. Some parts are even best removed by repeatedly scoring using a sharp modeling blade.

 

For adhesives, I only use epoxy to join resin to resin because I need guaranteed working time. I had a very bad experience with slow CA that suddenly decided to be instant-setting. I mostly use epoxy for PE to resin, but will also use CA.

 

Here are some resin kits I've built:

 

1/48 RAF Accumulator Trolley. This was my object lesson on not using CA for resin-to-resin joints. The lower frame attached itself instantaneously and mis-aligned. I had to cut it off and rebuild from plastic; frankly, I was happier with the rebuilt part.

 

1/48 Ben Hur:

 

1/48 RQ-7B:

 

1/48 X-37B:

 

1/'48 MQ-8B. The original paint on this was completely stripped after I saw the low-viz markings become non-viz. Since this was all resin and PE, I was able to quickly strip it with lacquer thinner.

 

 

[ElectroSoldier]

I have a fair amount of resin kits, mostly from Forgeworld. I have always used either a dremel or files and a knife to work with it, Ive never felt the need to use wet sanding to control the dust. I just use a small vacuum cleaner to control it.

 

I work with epoxy resins on a daily basis at work, all the horror stories people tell you about regarding them is true to a large extent however you can minimise the risk of any problems with some forethought.

The first problem for me about resin isnt that it gives you cancer, it is that is is a sensitising agent. Basically in the end it will 100% give you a rash, a rather nasty rash that will erupt every single time you body comes back into contact with the resin, be that dust and simply the fumes in the air when its curing, you dont even need to touch or be near it in some instance, simply being in the same room as it is enough.

I know it does because Ive actually seen it happen to people I work with. And even then, I still use a dremel to work with it. I use nitrile gloves, a face mask (not one of the paper ones that fits over your nose and mouth, they are largely pointless, they only stop some of the larger dust from entering your lungs, the smaller still passes no matter what they say. you need an air tight full face mask that takes its air through a full on dust and particle filter that is almost always seperate from the mask itself that also has a full glass visor to protect your eyes because eye contact is has the same problems.

 

Controlling the dust by laying it with water doesnt stop it touching your skin. it will dry and release the dust from the water in the end and you still have the problem of dust in the room.

 

Resins are perfectly safe as long as you dont trust it and dont let it touch you.