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Norm83 Jabog32 Tornado (1/48 Revell)


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Hi! at last i'm ready to start this build! i'm a bit late...but as group build last 6 months, 3 weeks shouldn't hurt too much.

 

my project is to depict a Jabog32 Tornado (circa 1990, the year i saw them in flesh, at BFC Goosebay... but i only have a few (bad) photos taken at an airshow same year)

the aircraft was sporting the Norm83 scheme, and the Jabog32 crest was blue at that time.  the aircraft i've chosen is  44+54.

here's what i'm starting with:

DSCN0477_zpssv9q3bvr.jpg

yesterday i've just receive the HaHen decals, because the kit's decals where lacking appropriate stencils, german flag, or the Jabog crest (still not the right color, but it will help me to create mine, in time...)

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as i'm not use to german stuff, i'm a bit out of my comfort zone... it took me a few day to study the kit's instructions... not exactly builder friendly...

 

so i started with the seats. those are CMK seats for Tornado. it is not design for Luftwaffe Tornado... and most details hardly match any photos... most details are rather soft. and casting wasn't perfect, bubbles, old molds i guess... quite sad, would not recommend.

anybody know what would make the best 1/48 luftwaffe tornado seats?

i havent finished them yet... still needs some touch-ups (photos shows me glaring botchy paintjob...)

haven't glued the PE belts neither... (hope to have the time to do that this week-end....those colored PE where the reason i decided to give a try to those seats)

DSCN0499_zpsttxnehrb.jpgDSCN0502_zpsz5x12kom.jpg

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i also added the oxygen hose on the side, made from guitar string (classical D)

 

 

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3 hours ago, mingwin said:

the aircraft was sporting the Norm83 scheme, and the Jabog32 crest was blue at that time.  the aircraft i've chosen is  44+54.

 

Hi,

 

a blue wing crest? Really? Can you post a pic?

I was in JaboG32 in 1989/90 and can´t remember to have seen blue wing badges on our Tornados. The only thing blue was the small NATO compass within the badge. Everything else was toned down AFAIK. Will check my slides from our Beja detachment 1990. Good times....

 

Joerg

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no, the tail crest, JaboG 32 crest. i'll try to find a photo...(could the crest being of a grayish blue? not impossible...as i'm colorblind...if it was the case, that would simplify my life a little:doh:)

 

BTW thanks Joerg to chime in!:thumbsup: that's awesome to have a fellow member knowledgeable on such a very precise subject, i will undoubtedly rely on your memory that should be more vivid than mine on that matter.

Edited by mingwin
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4 minutes ago, mingwin said:

no, the tail crest, JaboG 32 crest. i'll try to find a photo...(could the crest being of a grayish blue? not impossible...as i'm colorblind...if it was the case, that would simplify my life a little:doh:)

When I said wing crest, I meant the badge of JaboG32 on the tail fin (JaboG is short for Jagdbombergeschwader, which translates to Fighter Bomber Wing - that´s where my "wing" came from...:thumbsup: ). As I said before the only blue within that badge is for the NATO compass. The rest are different tones of grey.

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like that one is grey? (i'm not joking when i'm telling i'm color blind)

img030_zpsfdw8ghpi.jpg

because it is not the exact same layout as the one i have on my HaHen decasl sheet... (but don't get me wrong, i'm no expert on that matter! i won't nitpick infinitly like i can do on russian subjects...)

Edited by mingwin
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little update

tonight i've dressed up the seats with the colored PE elements.

that was not an easy task (i prefer molded-on seatbelts, but no such seat available was satisfying me)

DSCN0515_zpsftg0mdzm.jpg

the end result isn't all bad... but i broke the painted PE parts coating in many places...but since i was thinking to paint them a different color it doesn't matter much.

DSCN0522_zps2h4wjv90.jpgother than that, i find them still a bit naked compared to photos of the real thing... might have to improve them a little more... but that will be later, now i'm done for today!

DSCN0523_zpshkrnoc8i.jpg

cheers

happy modeling to all!

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UHHH same to me, I prefer molded on belts. Often EDU has some kind of fantasy color on them and while you bend them to snuggle the seat's curves it really happens that the coating lifts off the metal. Not satisfying...maybe that is the reason why EDU offers the fabric material for seatbelts!?

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Your seats look great Mingwin !  I love the subject you have chosen too.

I managed to pick up the Aires seats for my build and those also have some photo etched belts ....though I think the lap belts are molded on.

 

-Scott

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thank you for stoping by and leave kind comments:thumbsup:

i'm pretty done with the seats now...

i've improve them again, by adding some fabric on the bottom cushion (made with lead sheet), also added more belts in the waist area. like that, it has more the "busy look" that the real seat have.

i also painted over the belts, some area with dark copper, some with a olive drab+gold and the waist one in gray. ...later i might give a little wash...maybe.

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i also have remove a little box on the right hand side of the head of the seat (as it doesn't appear on my reference photos)

DSCN0527_zpsupjdhegp.jpg

finally the CMK seats require some minor modifications (and some extra dressing) to make it looks like a Luftwaffe tornado seat, but after doing multiple check, it seems to be the best starting point available now on the market.

DSCN0532_zpsbu62ds4y.jpgDSCN0534_zpsev4n2xhf.jpg

hope you like it!

hope it inspire some!

happy modeling time to you!

cheers

Simon

Edited by mingwin
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  • 2 weeks later...

haven't had lots of modeling time lasts weeks, but i manage to find my way back to the bench now.

i have done some work in the cockpit area. i've attempted to improve what the kit was offering, as i do not wanted to put more than resin seats in the pit. 

i've drilled all the dials...which was half a good idea... at a certain stage of the process it even had some "neomega" style... but i went a bit too far...and did have to do some repair job.

i've used some of the cockpit decals (only those for the IP, not those for the consoles, as they where of no help...didn't fit in no way...) and painted consoles details (inspired from some photos that where "close enough" from the kit's details, and from the Eduard color cockpit PE set)

i've manage to break lots of dials decals when trying to snuggle them down in their respective cavities... it looks bad when zoomed in 10 X like in those photos... but the real thing look quite acceptable.

DSCN0577_zpsbt0lsrgv.jpg

sadly, when i have added some flat clear, with a small brush, the black paint from my gundam paint pen have leaked...as some other details...

on the "improvment" side, i have added a HUD lenses with reflector, and also some cables on the control stick.

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as i plan to do the model with the canopy in the closed position most of the little details that bugs me now, won't itch me much when the model will be finished.

while doing some test fit i have discovered that i'll have to add something to raise the ejection seats to the right height.

 

 

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something bad i have discovered this week while doing that cockpit... i will need new glasses... my sight is not what it was... my last prescription was more than a decade ago...

luckily i was working with my optivisor most of the time.  nonetheless my work have suffered from that a little.

 

Cheers

and have a nice modeling time!

Simon.

Edited by mingwin
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there have been some progress this week.

i'm know deeply into "over engineered" part of the kit build...

i haven't used any putty yet... but putty job there will be... but i tried to limit that by dry fit test...and sandind/filing down some parts...

even with all the care i can give, it was still a bit of a pita.

in short, this week i have experimented a new building technique : dry-fit/glue-clamp/adjust/glue-clamp/let-dry/adjust/glue-clamp...repeat infinitely... God i wish i had that Quick setting Tamiya extra thin glue!

and all i got was this:

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i've manage to do a rather clean job on the topside/outer-sides of the intakes... 

the bottom will require much more attention to repair/correct...

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so far i'm rather satisfied by the results of my efforts to do as little putty-sanding as possible... it begins to take shape slowly...

 

 

 

 

Edited by mingwin
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YES! It looks good, you can be really satisfied. The small corrections on the intake can be done. Still not bad enough to open the putty. I would use CA for filling and sand it fine and wet. The tedious work will come: spraying a (black) color to see any defects, correct again, sand, spray, look - with your new glasses! and...there will be a time the correction will be ok for you and priming can begin. So you are not alone, I share the same procedure with you! haha

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6 hours ago, Crazy Snap Captain said:

Nice progress Mingwin. You're right about the fast drying Tamiya extra thin. It was MADE for this kit! I've found it invaluable so far.

lesson learned... a tad too late... nonetheless, i've decided to order two jars...but as it has to be ship by surface they'll come to me too late for that build...(they don't have it yet at my hobby shops in town)

-tobiK, i'll take a look at your stuff... and see if available in my town, any option should be considered...

 

thank you guys to come by and leave comments, it's highly appreciated!

 

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The Liter ethyl acetate costs less than 10€! A few years ago I ordered it from a special shop for colors and color pigments. For users who mix their own paint, e.g. church painters. I am sure you will find it in your country, too! But ofc not in the LHS, hehe....aren't you in the land of unlimited possibilities? ;-)

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Yes, I use Ethylacetate to fix rescribing accidents with stretched sprue.

 

In fact, fast drying Tamiya Extra Thin appears to be a 50/50 blend of Ethylacetate and Acetone.

The normal TET contains Butylacetate and Acetone. Both kinds of acetates can be distinguished by their different smells, which is exactly the same as the respective glues. How do I know? Well... I did some research while trying to do my own homebrew liquid styrene filler.

 

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Ahh, an expert in chemistry! Hope you are not addicted to sniffing that liquids!? ;-)

Hm, I will try a 50/50 mix with acetone aka "nagellackentferner" (remover for nail enamel, or how to translate!?).

Up to now I am very confident with ethyl acetate for glueing, i use a brush and capillar effect, then I press the part together. Just that much i want to, sometimes I like to get melted plastic coming out of the seam, sometimes not. Only the old hard monogram plastic needs a bit more "motivation". But the more modern softer, mostly grey plastics, really welcomes ethyl acetate and likes to react.

 And yes, agree, using it for blending rescribed engravings works fine, too!

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