MM acryl: Is it even worth it?

[Janissary]

I have a bottle of MM acryl (gloss 16440) I may need to use in my current build. Never had a good exeprience with these but I want to give it another try. Here are my questions if I may:

 

(Background): I will be applying this to a clean surface, that will have been primed with Surfacer 2000, and possibly a few thin layers of flat(ish) paint. So the surface should have enough grit for MM.

 

(1)  What is the best way to thin MM acryl? I have Mr. Levelling thinner, Tamiya X-20A, regular lacquer thinner, IP alcohol. I don't have MM/Testors acrylic thinner and would prefer not to buy it as I would use it very infrequently. This guy has a good test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOyoALGhi_0 but his test on Mr. Leveling thinner left me a little unsure. Contrary to what I would have guessed, X-20A looks to be a no-go from his experiment. Never had the Ultimate Airbrush Acyrlic Thinner he uses at the beginning. 

 

(2) Even with the best thinner, are these paints still too fragile? I am talking about whether they truly have weak adhesion causing paint lift after tape masking, flaking after an oil wash, or bad reaction to decal softeners etc. I do anticipate quite bit of masking and rough handling after the main colors. Weak adhesion seems to be the most common complaint about these paints. 

 

(3) Can they be mixed with Tamiya acrylic paints and thinned heavily to create different tones for post shading? I have found both acryl and enamel MM to be a PITA when it comes to low pressure, highly thinned shading applications. It just doesn't flow nicely out of the airbrush unlike Tamiya and Gunze acrylics. I hope to avoid buying additional stuff like retarders. 

 

I am just hoping that I am yet to find the best thinner for MM acryl that will solve all these issues. If not, I will have to mix my own Tamiya colors. I know there is Gunze H315, but I want to give MM acryl one more chance! I am particularly interested in responses from those who have a considerable experience with both MM acryl and Tamiya acrylics.

 

Edited March 29, 2017 by Janissary

[Spectre711]

I use the Tamiya lacquer thinner 87077 with some good results.  The lacquer thinner makes the finish a little tougher as it does with the Tamiya  acrylic.  Most of the time it will work good but some times I get a gooey mess.  The lacquer thinner somehow makes the finish a bit more durable.

I'm running out of choices since the local shop closed and Testors cut the enamel line down.

Edited April 11, 2017 by Spectre711

[Bob Beary]

You can either add some Future to it or thin it with Future. It will increase adhesion and give you a glossy (or at least glossier) finish for decals.

 

It also helps to prevent tip dry.

 

Bob

[Janissary]

Thank you for the ideas. I will give them a try. 

[jester292]

I've had very good luck with Model Master Acryl paints thinned with cheap pharmacy brand alcohol. Whichever % I happen to pick up for the house, that's what I use. Works well! But they leave a mess in my paint cup. So I clean the airbrush with lacquer thinner. The paints have no reaction to even the hottest decal solvents. I used Model Master Lacquer gloss clear over the Acryl before I decal. 

[Falconxlvi]

I thin MM Acrylic with tap water (about 30%) and it seems to do just fine.  Make sure you stir all of the pigment until there is no residue left on either your stir stick or in the glass jar.  Then add to the airbrush and thin with water.  I have masked over the stripes on my Tomcat wing several times with no adhesion issues.  The MM was sprayed over Gunze Mr Color C316.  

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd4eu7viq7lmw4j/Photo May 09%2C 18 46 53.jpg?dl=0

Edited May 12, 2017 by Falconxlvi

[dsahling]

I find using the Model Master acrylics work good with their thinner, I also add in a little bit of Vallejo "Flow Improver" to prevent the nozzle tip from drying.  Some of the issues I've had in the past using Model Master acrylics I've determined was due to using a nozzle size that was simply too small.  I presently use a Harder & Steenbeck 0.4mm nozzle and I can still spray VERY fine and tight lines with great control but I have far less in the way of airbrush problems with it.

[Fly-n-hi]

I've had good results thinning it with lacquer thinner, too.  I guess it helps the paint burn chemically bond to the styrene better.  I just used the canned thinner from Home Depot.

[Rex]

Testors has an article that might be of some use to you.

 

It is a PDF that deals with using Model Master paints, since the demise of the Polly Scale formula of Water based Acrylics.

 

Chapters 3, 4, and 5 might be especially useful.

 

http://www.testors.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/Testors/ebook/MRH-Acrylic-painting-guide-post-Floquil-Portrait.ashx

 

This is mostly useful for all of us that want to stay "non-toxic",,,,,,,or that have to, as I do. If that is not a consideration for you, then the other tips above work just fine. I don't have a choice, so I always have my eye out for articles and ideas that avoid lacquer thinner and solvent based primers.

Edited May 12, 2017 by Rex

[Ichitoe]

Rex,

 

Thanks for the link. I learned a few things...

 

Mike

[Hoops]

I would definitely use some sort of primer before putting down MM Acrylics. The biggest issues I've ever had is with them lifting with masking tape off of bare plastic.

 

Cheers,

 

Hoops

[admiralcag]

Thanks for sharing the link!

 

Vern

[Beauslx]

Rex, thanks for the link! Very helpful.