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Fishwelding

VERY early M113, 3AD 1963

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That came together nicely. Haven't yet used Archer's transfers but that is quite interesting about applying them to wet transfer film. Ahh, near-microscopic letters, have gone there with trains, it is an adventure! 

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Great job Fish!  The base you added the 113 to really is fantastic.   What's up next in the queue?

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3 hours ago, 11bee said:

Great job Fish!  The base you added the 113 to really is fantastic.   What's up next in the queue?

 

Thanks!

 

Having surveyed my bloated, disgraceful collection of unfinished kits, I think I'm morally obligated to tackle at least one "shelf-queen."  That'll probably be a long-neglected 1/72 P2V Neptune.  A Cold War subject, but not armor.  

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One of the prettiest Cold War planes.   Good luck and post some pics once you start!   

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Phenomenal job.  Please don’t take this the wrong way.  I am just trying to make an observation, because in a 100 years I could not do anything close to the job you’ve done.  But the uniforms seem limey green.  My experience was when the OD faded they turned the OD more gray.

 

Your figures are done, so you can tell me to STFU.  Fantastic job man, I salute you.

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15 hours ago, AD-4N said:

Phenomenal job.  Please don’t take this the wrong way.  I am just trying to make an observation, because in a 100 years I could not do anything close to the job you’ve done.  But the uniforms seem limey green.  My experience was when the OD faded they turned the OD more gray.

 

Your figures are done, so you can tell me to STFU.  Fantastic job man, I salute you.

 

You're right, the uniforms are a bit technicolor.  In the past few years I've aggressively pursued scale color since in previous projects my models - vehicles, airplanes, figures, foliage, everything - seemed too dark unless I flooded the area with light.  So I've either chosen paints that seemed lighter shades of the "proper" color, or scale adjusted them myself by adding white, tan, or yellow.  I should do the latter, because adding white especially tends to fade them a bit.  When I choose a lighter variant out of the bottle it's often really bright for military shades.  

 

The other big challenge for the Cold War modeler is chasing that dark, almost chocolate OD for vehicles and hardware.  On the real thing it very quickly looks almost faded black or dark gray, under a coat of dust.  But with a model, I want to suggest to the observer that it's an Olive Drab shade characteristic of the U.S. Army in that era.    

 

Thanks!

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