jminer

Nose Weight - What do you use?

29 posts in this topic

Let's hear it.  What do you use when your plane is a tailsitter?  

 

I've used everything from two-part epoxy putty to small nuts, large bolts, and spare sprue cut and glued together.  Do you have a particular medium or objects you generally use?  

 

:cheers:

 

Justin

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lead fishing weights stuck in the nose with white glue.

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I cut a piece of tube styrene to the desired size (depending on what a/c i'm working on how much room there is) cap one end, fill the tube with whatever weights available and then pour in some white glue. Let dry and cap the other end. The tube being styrene can then be easily glued into the nose.

 

Jari

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Posted (edited)

Lead fishing weights as well.

Edited by Helmsman

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Lead or steel fishing weights, tire weights found on the side of the road, pennies

stacked, super glued, small nuts, and with them also modeling clay.I usually super glue them in the nose. ---John

33981880772_6e0c5dc2f4_o.jpgOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by jvandeu53, on Flickr

33734822686_2058e2885d_o.jpgHerk 24 by jvandeu53, on Flickr

 

 

 

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I've always used copper ball bearings. I buy them in bulk on amazon...they work most of the time, but sometimes they're too light.

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5 minutes ago, Orion Field said:

I've always used copper ball bearings. I buy them in bulk on amazon...they work most of the time, but sometimes they're too light.

Try tungsten, much more dense and heavier per size.---John

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Posted (edited)

Thanks! I'll definitely try that. Not going to be building anything that needs nose weight any time soon, but when I finish the 1/350th USS Lexington,  I have a 1/72 Su-35 waiting.

Edited by Orion Field

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I use lead shot and white glue or epoxy.  I got "Liquid Gravity" last year, which is finer-grained than shot,  but haven't had an opportunity to use it yet.

 

Have read about tungsten, which is denser than lead. 

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I used to use Older Pennies,,,,,,because they only cost me, umm, a penny each. (Older pennies are heavier than newer ones, in the US, at least)

 

But, for some model kits, such as the Monogram Tigercat, Copper won't work, and even Lead doesn't seem dense enough,,,,,,then I go over to my neighbor and buy some of his Tungsten bullets. I surround those with lead shot, densely packed. I flood the whole area with White Glue, it gives me a barrier between the metals and the plastic nose,,,,,and adds just a small amount of extra weight with the "fill effect."

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Posted (edited)

Rex---older pennies are worth MORE than a penny. Use the new "worthless" ones.

The old ones, especially "wheaties", are worth MORE than face value as they are REAL copper

and a 1955 double die wheat penny is worth $1200!!!!! I'll trade you....:rolleyes:---John

Edited by john53

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.50 cal. lead shot available on Amazon at a reasonable price per box.  Soft enough to flatten or cut up with side cutters to fit smaller spaces.

Cheers, Dave

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Yes, John, I know.

 

But, even if worth more, they still only cost me a penny when I get them. And the new ones are so very much lighter that they didn't do the job, anyway.

 

funny, I knew a guy that used old pennies for rearend bolt washers, because the copper washers were so expensive to buy by the dozen, and now drilling those and using them is "defacing US currency",,,,,,I wonder what the fine would be?

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I use wheel balancing weights, I get them off ebay, they have a self adhesive backing and come in a strip of convenient 5g, 10g & 25g weights, simply snap the size you need off the strip and use the self adhesive pad to stick them under the cockpit floor or in the nose above the nosewheel well.

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I used to use pennies. But now Canada does not make them anymore. Next time i am in the ststes i will have to grab a couple dollars worth.

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I use .22 caliber lead pellets from my pellet gun. 

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I use lead fishing weights and blu tac.  Quick and easy, just stuff some blu tac in, and then shove a couple weights in the nose.  Really fast and easy!

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#8 lead shot held in place with super glue.  

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I use Lead Flashing - normally used on places like chimney/roof joints in building.

58f9b6658f054_LeadFlashing.jpg.6266ea308a88991ca8a41aaa6715fb84.jpg

 

A 3m x 150mm roll cost me about £30.00 and lasts for years - I've had mine for 2 years and it's barely started. It also has the advantage that you can use it to replace floors and bulkheads in kits where adding weight can be problematical.

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I use lead shot and stick it in the nose with blu tac. 

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Another vote for lead shot, in my case #6 shot, also stuck in with PVA/white glue.

Steve.

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I use Pine car weights. Available at most hobby stores. These are the weights that are used for pine car derby racers and come in a strip of small "ingots" which you break off and I white glue them to the inside of the nose or where ever I can.

Cheers:cheers:

Itch

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Mostly bolts and nuts. Or any other pieces of suitable metal. I'm not into fishing so I've never visited a fishing store. Now that we happen to have one nearby I might give it a try.

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I've used pennies and rocks before.

 

I stopped with white glue. after a projext stalls or collects dust I have had the occasion to wash it or bath it and have had lead shot rolling everywhere. Super glue isn't advised either as it can craze and develop a sickness that breaks the model (I think that's a humidity thing)

 

Made the mistake of using resin to secure nose weight and watched it eat the styrene and it bent and warped and flaked until amputation 

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haha, TT. I didn't use resin or epoxy,,,,,,,but, I did once use Squadron Green Stuff. Packed it in there with a few sinkers.

 

I was going to wait until the nose completely drooped off the model, but, I built a replacement before it got that far.

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