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Stupidest kit features competition


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ditto on marrying up canopy frame and clear parts, bone-headed par excellence failure in design (looking at you Revell F-15E). 

Also large attachment points with the sprues, open access doors / speed brakes (intense hatred), and poor instructions (looking at you Revell Tornado IDS).

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9 hours ago, echolmberg said:

1) Bombs and rockets with no locating pins and you have to try to glue it to a pylon that only gives you the tiniest razor's edge of surface area.

2) Kits that come with complete engines that you'll never see but they sure charge you for it.

3) Excessive parts count.

4) Photoetch parts with no plastic alternative.

Agree with you on many of those points, especially 1 & 4.

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6 hours ago, zerosystem said:

Clear wingtip and fuselage lights that don't match the wing/fuselage shape.

Oh lordie, that drives me bananas!

 

Add to that:

 

1) butt joints for aerials and other fine parts

 

2) the retaining pins on 1/72 Hasegawa F-4 horizontal tails. Welcome to break city!

 

3) no canopy insulation decals in jet models that need them.

 

4) the tracks in Panda Model tank kits. NOBODY IS INTERESTED IN ADDING GUIDE TEETH ONTO INDIE LINK TRACKS! They're a PITA as it is!

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With older model car kits I get frustrated with chromed headlights. They look bad and are hard to do anything with. I know it is a lot easier to tool and probably saves a lot of money, but it really detracts from the finished model.

 

Fortunately it is not common in new kits, but on old kits which I seem to always end up building, they really let down otherwise great looking kits.

 

 

Edited by Kurt H.
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Pitot tubes that are molded onto the nose that you know are going to get broken.

 

Canopies that are molded in two separate pieces, down the middle. Like a certain A-6.

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It is not very common, but what about little antennas molded to the fuselage? with little blade antennas, it is hard to sand the seam on the fuselage.

 

The Hasegawa raised panel line 1/48 F-4J has blade antennas molded on 1 fuselage half.  (kit P1) . Even a revolutionary, ground breaking kit can have a WTH issue.

 

 

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12 hours ago, dean spirkoff said:

I feel that revillograms b26 and b25 are the worst kits ever molded

You need to expand your horizons a bit, then!  :-)   There are MUCH worse out there.

 

 

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All,

 

The problem that Les outlined in his first post about the door actuator on the Academy Phantom kit.  How anybody find a workable solution to keeping that piece from being broken off?  My build of the F-4B stalled when I broke that piece off and I would like to complete at least one 1/48th scale Phantom this year.  I have the other two versions but I am hesitant to start them because of this perceived roadblock or barricade.  Any thoughts, comments or recommendations are greatly appreciated!

 

Best Regards,

Ken Bailey

(SonyKen)

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1 hour ago, SonyKen said:

All,

 

The problem that Les outlined in his first post about the door actuator on the Academy Phantom kit.  How anybody find a workable solution to keeping that piece from being broken off?  My build of the F-4B stalled when I broke that piece off and I would like to complete at least one 1/48th scale Phantom this year.  I have the other two versions but I am hesitant to start them because of this perceived roadblock or barricade.  Any thoughts, comments or recommendations are greatly appreciated!

 

Best Regards,

Ken Bailey

(SonyKen)

 

Two things I can think of.  1st, use a PE set which replaces the actuator

 

barring that, taping something just large enough over the actuator, like a bottle cap or something to protect it while handling the model.

Edited by Kurt H.
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Les and Kurt,

 

Thanks for the comments.  Who makes a replacement PE piece?  Not sure if I understand how to tape a cap on it.  I know that it may be a sacrilege to go forward with the landing gear installation but at least there is less chance for me of breaking it off due to the fact that it would be a lot more sturdier.  Has anybody tried this?  I thought about trying it on my next build attempt.  Thanks for the input!

 

Best Regards,

Ken Bailey'

(SonyKen)  

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3 hours ago, SonyKen said:

All,

 

The problem that Les outlined in his first post about the door actuator on the Academy Phantom kit.  How anybody find a workable solution to keeping that piece from being broken off?  My build of the F-4B stalled when I broke that piece off and I would like to complete at least one 1/48th scale Phantom this year.  I have the other two versions but I am hesitant to start them because of this perceived roadblock or barricade.  Any thoughts, comments or recommendations are greatly appreciated!

 

Best Regards,

Ken Bailey

(SonyKen)

 

I recently built the Academy F-4 and noted that, if that piece was put in at the time suggested, it would break off. I left it to the very end. As I recall, I had to do a very minor bit of sanding, but it will easily slide into place at an angle. I tried it out early in the build and knew it was possible.

 

 

HTH

 

Bob

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On 5/1/2017 at 4:52 PM, Andrew D. the Jolly Rogers guy said:

Any canopy in which the canopy frame must be attached to the canopy transparency!!! :soapbox: 

 

Preach it brother....soooooo true.

 

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Hey SonyKen

 

Allow me to illustrate with the Testors F-4G as a stand-in

 

IMGP8965-vi.jpg

 

Putting something rigid over the actuator will help protect it.

 

I looked at the PE sets I have for the Academy phantoms and they do not have a actuator.

 

I do remember the Old Eduard PE fret for the hasegawa J has the actuator. It is in 3 pieces.

 

https://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/F-4J-S-1-48-1-2.html

 

Hope it helps

 

 

 

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