metroman Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 ditto on marrying up canopy frame and clear parts, bone-headed par excellence failure in design (looking at you Revell F-15E). Also large attachment points with the sprues, open access doors / speed brakes (intense hatred), and poor instructions (looking at you Revell Tornado IDS). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zerosystem Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Clear wingtip and fuselage lights that don't match the wing/fuselage shape. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan Hothersall Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 9 hours ago, echolmberg said: 1) Bombs and rockets with no locating pins and you have to try to glue it to a pylon that only gives you the tiniest razor's edge of surface area. 2) Kits that come with complete engines that you'll never see but they sure charge you for it. 3) Excessive parts count. 4) Photoetch parts with no plastic alternative. Agree with you on many of those points, especially 1 & 4. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dekon70 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 I can stand open panels. It's a PITA to close them. Maybe make lines on the inside of the piece so people who want them open can cut then out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RKic Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 6 hours ago, zerosystem said: Clear wingtip and fuselage lights that don't match the wing/fuselage shape. Oh lordie, that drives me bananas! Add to that: 1) butt joints for aerials and other fine parts 2) the retaining pins on 1/72 Hasegawa F-4 horizontal tails. Welcome to break city! 3) no canopy insulation decals in jet models that need them. 4) the tracks in Panda Model tank kits. NOBODY IS INTERESTED IN ADDING GUIDE TEETH ONTO INDIE LINK TRACKS! They're a PITA as it is! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChesshireCat Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 mine is easy. The stupid idea of making the landing gear on the Tamiya 1/32 Zeros workable. Why? I could make a rather long list of armor kits, but I'm lazy gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew D. the Jolly Rogers guy Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 On 5/3/2017 at 5:37 PM, dekon70 said: I can stand open panels. It's a PITA to close them. Maybe make lines on the inside of the piece so people who want them open can cut then out. Oh, yes, I'm SO with you on this one!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
habu2 Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 Silly rabbits, the open panel features are there to distract you from the woefully inaccurate canopy outline ..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jfmajor60 Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 The canopy for the 1/48 Revell Pro Mod ME-410 what an absolute PITA I destroyed the first one and had to order a replacement, A great kit except for that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 (edited) With older model car kits I get frustrated with chromed headlights. They look bad and are hard to do anything with. I know it is a lot easier to tool and probably saves a lot of money, but it really detracts from the finished model. Fortunately it is not common in new kits, but on old kits which I seem to always end up building, they really let down otherwise great looking kits. Edited May 7, 2017 by Kurt H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew D. the Jolly Rogers guy Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 10 hours ago, habu2 said: Silly rabbits, the open panel features are there to distract you from the woefully inaccurate canopy outline ..... ...doesn't seem to have worked.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dean spirkoff Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 I feel that revillograms b26 and b25 are the worst kits ever molded Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wolfgun33 Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Pitot tubes that are molded onto the nose that you know are going to get broken. Canopies that are molded in two separate pieces, down the middle. Like a certain A-6. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 It is not very common, but what about little antennas molded to the fuselage? with little blade antennas, it is hard to sand the seam on the fuselage. The Hasegawa raised panel line 1/48 F-4J has blade antennas molded on 1 fuselage half. (kit P1) . Even a revolutionary, ground breaking kit can have a WTH issue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe Hegedus Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 12 hours ago, dean spirkoff said: I feel that revillograms b26 and b25 are the worst kits ever molded You need to expand your horizons a bit, then! :-) There are MUCH worse out there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SonyKen Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 All, The problem that Les outlined in his first post about the door actuator on the Academy Phantom kit. How anybody find a workable solution to keeping that piece from being broken off? My build of the F-4B stalled when I broke that piece off and I would like to complete at least one 1/48th scale Phantom this year. I have the other two versions but I am hesitant to start them because of this perceived roadblock or barricade. Any thoughts, comments or recommendations are greatly appreciated! Best Regards, Ken Bailey (SonyKen) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, SonyKen said: All, The problem that Les outlined in his first post about the door actuator on the Academy Phantom kit. How anybody find a workable solution to keeping that piece from being broken off? My build of the F-4B stalled when I broke that piece off and I would like to complete at least one 1/48th scale Phantom this year. I have the other two versions but I am hesitant to start them because of this perceived roadblock or barricade. Any thoughts, comments or recommendations are greatly appreciated! Best Regards, Ken Bailey (SonyKen) Two things I can think of. 1st, use a PE set which replaces the actuator barring that, taping something just large enough over the actuator, like a bottle cap or something to protect it while handling the model. Edited May 7, 2017 by Kurt H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lesthegringo Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 To be honest it is such a small feature that I know it was going to break so just waited until it did, put it somewhere safe and put it in when installing the landing gear. 99% of people would see it anyway Les Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CorsairMan Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 My issue is with teeny little parts on the sprue. Like a radar altimeter..... Why can't they just put a few more on the sprue??? You are going to lose them or break them..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SonyKen Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Les and Kurt, Thanks for the comments. Who makes a replacement PE piece? Not sure if I understand how to tape a cap on it. I know that it may be a sacrilege to go forward with the landing gear installation but at least there is less chance for me of breaking it off due to the fact that it would be a lot more sturdier. Has anybody tried this? I thought about trying it on my next build attempt. Thanks for the input! Best Regards, Ken Bailey' (SonyKen) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 3 hours ago, SonyKen said: All, The problem that Les outlined in his first post about the door actuator on the Academy Phantom kit. How anybody find a workable solution to keeping that piece from being broken off? My build of the F-4B stalled when I broke that piece off and I would like to complete at least one 1/48th scale Phantom this year. I have the other two versions but I am hesitant to start them because of this perceived roadblock or barricade. Any thoughts, comments or recommendations are greatly appreciated! Best Regards, Ken Bailey (SonyKen) I recently built the Academy F-4 and noted that, if that piece was put in at the time suggested, it would break off. I left it to the very end. As I recall, I had to do a very minor bit of sanding, but it will easily slide into place at an angle. I tried it out early in the build and knew it was possible. HTH Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SBARC Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 On 5/1/2017 at 4:52 PM, Andrew D. the Jolly Rogers guy said: Any canopy in which the canopy frame must be attached to the canopy transparency!!! Preach it brother....soooooo true. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 Hey SonyKen Allow me to illustrate with the Testors F-4G as a stand-in Putting something rigid over the actuator will help protect it. I looked at the PE sets I have for the Academy phantoms and they do not have a actuator. I do remember the Old Eduard PE fret for the hasegawa J has the actuator. It is in 3 pieces. https://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/F-4J-S-1-48-1-2.html Hope it helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
adamitri Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 Why would you place intake covers in your kit but no exhaust covers ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew D. the Jolly Rogers guy Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 19 hours ago, adamitri said: Why would you place intake covers in your kit but no exhaust covers ? DANG. That's just brilliant!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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