ghatherly Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 Hi Everyone. I was please to be in receipt of the new SWS 1/48 F-4S kit from Zoukei-Mura. As the second kit in their new series of 1/48 F-4 Phantoms, It follows the fantastic F-4J kit in offering details never offered to the Phantom lover in any scale for a slat wing Model. I am building this for the coming US IPMS NATS so this will be a quick build in terms of posting time, as I am working on it 8-10 hours a day on most days. In addition to the kit, I will be using HWG Seat belts, Master Model Metal AOA and Pitot set, GT Resin Exhaust nozzles, with a few added scratch details thrown in. A couple of general notes about the build. First, in providing the details there are some fragile parts where extra care needs to be taken removing them from the sprue. Second, the fit of the parts is exact, so care must be taken to completely remove sprue attachment points, and and occasional flash when assembling the parts to assure that everything fits as it is designed to fit. Here is the kit: Stay Tuned! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted July 1, 2017 Author Share Posted July 1, 2017 The first thing I did was to review the large instruction manual. Becoming familiar with the construction makes the project much more enjoyable as most of us deviate from the manual's build sequence some time during the build. Usually this is done to make painting and finishing easier. I build in sub assemblies which I hope are not a source of confusion. IF so just fire away with a question. I started first with the main wing. These are completely different parts form the J kit, and are very detailed, including the Belly strap and strengthening plates as shown below: IMPORTANT!!!! Zm left it up to the builder to open the holes in the bottom wing for the Inner and outer wing pylons, and the ECM nodes, and the Center Line tank. I chose not to use the wing tanks so I did not open those holes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 (edited) Great kit, great start! Turn it into a great build too! :pp :) *Phabulous build ;) Edited July 1, 2017 by my favs are F`s Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scooby Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Nice start! Were you part of the pre-order for this kit? I have one on order and I am curious if they started shipping. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 This update will be the basic cockpit tub construction. I am building enough of the pit to be able to install it it not he fuselage and close it up. The seats, Panels, and any other details that can be added at final assembly are left for later. One important note is to assemble the tub/wheel well assembly exactly as possible. The tolerances are very tight with respect to the tub and its fit with in the fuselage. If you don't pay attention as some builders found out with their F-4J build, the tub ends up to wide for the fuselage. IN those cases the builders trimmed the side panels to make the tub fit. IF the tub is assembled with all of the flash and the flare removed and the edges sanded lightly, then the tub fits perfectly. Check your fit, in fact ZM makes a special note in the instructions about this exact issue. The basic tub assembled with the seat rails installed The nose wheel well Some painted Cockpit pictures. I use a variety of paint types and brands in my builds. I am very partial to lacquers as primers and protectant coats. The trick for me is to thin it to keep the layers very thin, I used MIG's USN Cockpit paint set for the gray and the detail washes. I then spray the pit with clear lacquer to seal it and then infall the side panels and other parts. I find if I seal acrylics and enamels with the clear lacquer to protect the work, it makes the build go quicker and keeps me from making costly mistakes! The black panels are Acrylics, which allow me to then gently remove the paint from the details on the instrument panels. Next up is to close up the Fuselage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
picknpluck Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Great start! I hope this kit gets Geoff over at Furball to F-4release his "Low-Viz Rhinos" sheet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 (edited) On 7/3/2017 at 9:55 AM, picknpluck said: Great start! I hope this kit gets Geoff over at Furball to F-4release his "Low-Viz Rhinos" sheet. Thx for the kind words. I hope so to as I am using the old Microscope decals for this build in combination with the Kit decals for the stencils. Doing the VF-301 MIg Killer in the Ferris scheme. Between the early Hi viz markings, the std low viz and the Ferris there should be plenty of selections to fallout a set for Geoff. I also put a word in Jake's ear w/ Speed Hunter, let's see what happened. One guy I want to compliment is Dave Roof for an excellent job on designing the F-4J UK decal set for ZM. I don't know if he did the "S" also, but they are accurate and fit perfectly. Great Job Dave! Edited July 10, 2017 by ghatherly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Man, ...can`t wait to see this beauty with the Ferris scheme... but first fuselage and wings.... :P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 (edited) Here are some excerpts from the 32 page Instruction manual that I thought should be highlighted. First is the note I mentioned above about getting the tub together correctly so that the Fuselage closes as designed. The other is the option to build the model in a takeoff configuration. Zoukei-Mura even has a base to offer with the catapult track, and cables so that the modeler can build the "S" in a take off configuration. Or perhaps use the parts on a J kit???? You though need pilots. ZM did include all the parts for the extended nose strut, fuselage insets to place the elevator in the launch position, and a diagram for dropping the Ailerons and flaps. Edited July 3, 2017 by ghatherly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted July 8, 2017 Author Share Posted July 8, 2017 (edited) Update time: First is the test fitting of the fuselage around the cockpit: Detail shot of the Wheel well and speed brake housing painted: Sorry for the poor quality, but it is the only picture I have of the instrument panels after applying the kit decals. The side panels and others were painted but the instrument faces use the kit decals. I used Micro Sol and they set just fine using 3-4 applications and a little Q-tip dipped in solution for pressure. The Fuselage Glued together and partially completed: I removed the plastic Pitot tubes on the fin leading edge and made space for the Master Model Metal pitot tubes to be installed later. One very nice design feature of the ZM kit is that the only seams that need to be addressed are the top and bottom of the very front of the fuselage in front of the canopy and the front wheel well. Otherwise they are hidden along the fuselage spine by the panels and the fin vent. Elevators and rear fuselage are next update, along with my method for installing the intakes. Edited July 8, 2017 by ghatherly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 ...that lovely silhouette! At some later step, the very tip of the nose cone might need some sharpening. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Roof Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 On 7/3/2017 at 1:10 PM, ghatherly said: Thx for the kind words. I hope so to as I am using the old Microscope decals for this build in combination with the Kit decals for the stencils. Doing the VF-301 MIg Killer in the Ferris scheme. Between the early Hi viz markings, the std low viz and the Ferris there should be plenty of selections to fallout a set for Geoff. I also put a word in Jake's ear w/ Speed Hunter, let's see what happened. One guy I want to compliment is Dave Roof for an excellent job on designing the F-4J decal set in the ZM kit. I don't know if he did the "S" also, but they are accurate and fit perfectly. Great Job Dave! I didn't draw the decal sheet that was in their J kit. I drew a decal sheet covering the F-4J(UK)'s of 74 Sqn for Z-M that they released as a separate item under their line. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunny Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) Great build! BTW for other builders...This is a very nice kit as you can see as far as the exterior detail, but ZM dropped the ball on the general cockpit detail. Since I want open canopies I'm having to scratch build & scavenge resin from my stash of old Black Box, Aires, Hypersonic & Eduard AM to detail the cockpit into a fairly accurate presentation. It's up the builder how much they want to do, but if you're going for a fairly good likeness then you'll have to do the same/similar. I would buy the ZM photo etch set (made by Eduard) & metal landing gear that ZM offers, Get the Brassin weighted wheels, too, instead of the ZM resin set because the Brassin has the tire writing on sidewalls. They are very nice. Overall I think this kit is well engineered. It's a step up from the well received Academy kits-when they were released anyway. Other details can be added to the wing fuel dump vents, Master Model metal refueling probe receptacle. The Aires resin wheel wells for the Academy kits will fit after you cut away the kit's nose gear well & main gear wells. If you know your Phantoms then you can find all the other details that can be added or modified. I'm very pleased that ZM decided to market these Phantoms in 1/48. I hope they will release a F-4B/N as well. Keep on building!!! Good stuff here! Semper Fi, Masterguns Edited July 17, 2017 by Gunny Quote Link to post Share on other sites
picknpluck Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) Wow, what a bunch of B.S.. For what ZM is charging for that kit, you still have to dump a bunch of money into aftermarket? Might as well buy a Hasegawa at a fraction of the cost. Edited July 17, 2017 by picknpluck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Gunny said: Great build! BTW for other builders...This is a very nice kit as you can see as far as the exterior detail, but ZM dropped the ball on the general cockpit detail. Since I want open canopies I'm having to scratch build & scavenge resin from my stash of old Black Box, Aires, Hypersonic & Eduard AM to detail the cockpit into a fairly accurate presentation. It's up the builder how much they want to do, but if you're going for a fairly good likeness then you'll have to do the same/similar. I would buy the ZM photo etch set (made by Eduard) & metal landing gear that ZM offers, Get the Brassin weighted wheels, too, instead of the ZM resin set because the Brassin has the tire writing on sidewalls. They are very nice. Overall I think this kit is well engineered. It's a step up from the well received Academy kits-when they were released anyway. Other details can be added to the wing fuel dump vents, Master Model metal refueling probe receptacle. The Aires resin wheel wells for the Academy kits will fit after you cut away the kit's nose gear well & main gear wells. If you know your Phantoms then you can find all the other details that can be added or modified. I'm very pleased that ZM decided to market these Phantoms in 1/48. I hope they will release a F-4B/N as well. Keep on building!!! Good stuff here! Semper Fi, Masterguns WOW!!!!!!!! Thanks for posting, definitely you have some strong opinions irregardless as to whether they are correct. I live in Charleston, SC, and to my knowledge have never run into you. Your comment on the weighed wheels for a USN Carrier aircraft is interesting considering they are filled to 300psi to survive carrier landings. Even USMC jets carried this spec and they do not bulge unless they are going flat from a puncture! 55 minutes ago, picknpluck said: Wow, what a bunch of B.S.. For what ZM is charging for that kit, you still have to dump a bunch of money into aftermarket? Might as well buy a Hasegawa at a fraction of the cost. I would not go as far as to call it BS,....maybe passionate input. I do want to point out that in his enthusiasm to share his views, Master guns may have scared off some from the kit, and that is the wing conclusion to draw. Edited July 17, 2017 by ghatherly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunny Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 What are you talking about??? Should we have run into each other because you live in Charleston??? I don't even know who you are. Note that I stated I'm pleased with the kit & complimented you. I'm permitted to advise the issues with the kit as I observe them. I don't know what connection you have with ZM, but you shouldn't be offended that any opinion is shared. I think folks that are interested in this kit will make up they're own minds as whether they want to purchase this kit. That's they're prerogative obviously. I have nothing to do with that nor do I have any influence on others in these forums. No reason to get offended & throw out insults in these forums. We're all here to enjoy modeling & share opinions as well as facts, etc. You seem very assertive to want folks to notice what you know. I don't know what's up with that. Have an awesome day! Semper Fi, Mastersguns Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Gunny said: What are you talking about??? Should we have run into each other because you live in Charleston??? I don't even know who you are. Note that I stated I'm pleased with the kit & complimented you. I'm permitted to advise the issues with the kit as I observe them. I don't know what connection you have with ZM, but you shouldn't be offended that any opinion is shared. I think folks that are interested in this kit will make up they're own minds as whether they want to purchase this kit. That's they're prerogative obviously. I have nothing to do with that nor do I have any influence on others in these forums. No reason to get offended & throw out insults in these forums. We're all here to enjoy modeling & share opinions as well as facts, etc. You seem very assertive to want folks to notice what you know. I don't know what's up with that. Have an awesome day! Semper Fi, Mastersguns Take chill pill gunny! IF disagreeing with you is putting you down then I don't know what to say, but you have to admit that the suggestion to put bulged tires on a carrier jet is pretty funny. I, like you have an opinion and mine disagree with yours. I am active with many veterans, historical groups and am active in SCMA and IPMS in the area, including Beaufort. You mention in your moniker that you live in the SC Low Country, so naturally we may have run into each other. Sorry if this offends you. I post under my real name and since you don't I may or may not have run into you....which is a good thing in my book. So forgive me but what did I say that insulted you? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunny Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 4 hours ago, ghatherly said: Take chill pill gunny! IF disagreeing with you is putting you down then I don't know what to say, but you have to admit that the suggestion to put bulged tires on a carrier jet is pretty funny. I, like you have an opinion and mine disagree with yours. I am active with many veterans, historical groups and am active in SCMA and IPMS in the area, including Beaufort. You mention in your moniker that you live in the SC Low Country, so naturally we may have run into each other. Sorry if this offends you. I post under my real name and since you don't I may or may not have run into you....which is a good thing in my book. So forgive me but what did I say that insulted you? No worries, gt. We're all on the same team & obviously share the same passion that this great hobby offers. I thought I offended you & just wanted to clear the air. Again, nice kit & nice start! No offense taken & none intended. Keep building! Semper Fi, Masterguns Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 Time for a long overdue update. Here are some shots of the GT Resin intakes that were prototyped on this build. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 (edited) Here is the assembled wing showing the alignment of the outside hinge line and the leading edge slat pocket. a couple of notes, with the first one to READ the instructions completely and thoroughly. Before you glue on the wing top, you need to decide if you are using the outer wing pylons and open those holes if necessary. You all need to open the ECM node holes in the wings and the bottom of the intakes. You also need to install the Sparrow well flapper doors to the front missile bays and the Catapult cable hooks. These are a really important detail that all but the Academy Kits have left off. Note the accurate rendering of the belly strap and load plates that equipped the "S". Edited August 13, 2017 by ghatherly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Looks like an awesome kit. Great work on it, the resin intakes look great! :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonathan_Lotton Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Your build is looking really good! Question: On the outboard wing panels..am I seeing correctly they molded in slat wells? Instead of them being flush with raised actuators as on the actual F-4S? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share Posted August 14, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Jonathan_Lotton said: Your build is looking really good! Question: On the outboard wing panels..am I seeing correctly they molded in slat wells? Instead of them being flush with raised actuators as on the actual F-4S? Hi, yes what you are seeing is a lip creating what you call a well on the inboard wing. (I have not shown the outer wing work yet) This was a subject of discussion during kit developement. I will explain. The material here is plastic, that has limits to its use and min thicknesses without warping or being damaged. Our GT Resin 1/32 F-4S set is made like the real jet due to Resin being easier to pour thin, and being larger is easier to get the flush look of the real jet. The lip was chosen so the inner slat would fit flush if modeled in the retracted position. I the raised position, there is that lip and a thick trailing edge to the slat. I will show later how I thinned the TE of all 4 Slats, but I left lip alone as it is hidden. Either filling it or sanding it our are easy enough to do. I chose not to as I was building this for the US IPMS NATS last month and didn't take the time to eliminate it. I will on the next one built extended. One thing I want to mention is the inner slat leading edge lip, an "S" trademark, is modeled correctly as is the profiles of all 4 slats, especially if you thin the TE. The kit has raised actuators that are very accurately reproduced, with the inner and outer actuators being the larger ones flanking the smaller inner actuator. They are seperate parts not yet installed. You will see later that the outer slat can be sectioned into actually 2 panels as is the real jet. hope this helps as more to come quickly, as the jet is done. thx and great questions! Gary Edited August 14, 2017 by ghatherly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 Next is the engines. The pictures show what I originally planned for the intakes using the kit parts as the resin parts were not yet ready. One observation I found with the kit instruction is that installing the intake as is, with the engines and then adding the outer intake later was awkward for me when I built the J. When I built he B conversion I came up with the idea of separating the inner intakes, attaching them to the outer and installing them a conventional F-4 Phantom manner. Either way works fine by the way, I just found that manipulating the outer intake around and dealing with paint it was easier for me to use my approach. What you have to do is install the engines from the back, which is not difficult. both the kit outer intake and the GT Resin intakes have marking to accurately place the ECM nodes the "S" carried. I also reworded the main gear. The mechanism that is used to retract the main gear need sot be off set to add the two retraction rods to the pivot points, I carefully cut the connection arm away form he gear, and using plastic rod offset the arm to give clearance for the two rods. The first picture is bad but you get the ideas I also added detail tot he steering gear and using .2mm lead wire form UMM, added hydraulic lines to the parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ghatherly Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 (edited) Next is the assembled jet. Really straight forward but I want to point out a few things I did that will show up in various pics as I move to completion. I careful thin the trailing edge of the slats I carefully opened the gap between the elevator slat and the elevator airfoil. thinned the outer wing strake....way to thick but is has to be molded this way to not warp or be damaged int he box I used the black primer/molted white/then paint method for the first time. I used Tamiya decanted gloss black lacquer. I let it sit for a few hours to de-gass it and then thin with Tamiya lacquer thinner 25%. I use several very thin coats with porch cloth between coats. Here is how I removed the molding tabs from the slats as to not damage them. I should add some commentary on the decals. These are the old CAM set, and Had to go to Hannants in England. ( love that place). I bought the last two sets they had in the hope I would get one complete model done between the two. Well, I am very pleased to say that the old decals performed flawlessly and only one set was needed. I applied them over two very thin layers of Future thinned 25% with windex. I mist coat the future 1 hour after spraying with windex to further level out the layer. I used the red bottle Micro Sol to apply the decals and as you can see the process worked. Nav lights were from the kit sheet. Edited August 19, 2017 by ghatherly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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