crackerjazz Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 Hi Janissary, from your photos --- any fogging due to the CA glue cleared up after dipping in Future, is that right? It looks amazingly clear! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 (edited) From the pic I had posted, the general cloudiness that is seen is due to removing the center seam line, sanding the whole thing with finer and finer grits and finally Novus 3 then Novus 2. Future clears up any remaining fogginess left after Novus 2*. However, with CA, I was trying to be careful not to get it on the sections that will be transparent (i.e., anything that is not the frame). Luckily no CA crept onto those sections or created fogginess with the fumes. I'd say if it did, Future won't be able to clear that up so being careful is still critical. *I don't use Novus 1 because it leaves a thin film that prevents Future from sticking to the plastic. Edited November 5, 2017 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 Oh ok, thanks for the info! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 Sure. Close up of ugly seam lines, epoxy putty on the invisible sides, rescribing and rivet deepening with all its warts. On the bright side, the LG doors fit better than I thought it would :) Just wanted to capture these instances as well. Patience and good luck is what I will need with the next steps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 Great job Jani! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 Perfect job like always mate! I feel your pain for the rivets,I started add some on my Mystere,but I stopped the work 'cause I started think that,'cause the scale (1/72 ) ,mybe is better rivetting the model after the Alclad primer...I'll try and see if work! Gianni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Thank you Kike, Gianni. I am about to drill holes on the bottom fuselage wings. One thing I realized is that I am not sure about which pylon goes where. Specifically, I am not sure if the pylons pair up with the missiles (which would be my guess), and if so which missile pairs up with which pylon. The loadout I have in mind (as repeated from Page 1): (2) R-73(3) R-77(4) R-27R(5) KH-31 So I tried to figure this out from all the pics I've found, to no avail. Given my preference above for stations 2-5, can you let me know which pylons should go where, eg. 2E, 3D, 4C etc.? HB instructions are vague, especially for station 3: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10425299/70/8 http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10425299/70/9 If I were to follow HB's instructions, I would do: 2D 3? 4G 5B But again, I am unsure if these pylons are station-specific or missile-specific. Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nikosmeta Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 The pylons are missile specific. I remember that it is 5G but I will tell you for all the pylons in a couple of hours that I will be home and check my refs... By the way your job is amazing. Your build and kike 's will be my reference to build the exact same plane. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ya-gabor Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 (H) is the EW pod specially for the wing tip station. (A) is of course the wingtip version launch rail for the R-73 missile (D) is launch rail P-72 for R-73 and is usually on station 2 AKU-170 ejection rail is for the RVV-AE / R-77 Basically it could be anywhere. In most cases station 4 but could be even on outboard 2 or on centre line stations. ( C ) is APU-470 for R-27 it is usually on station 4 the heavy irons are usually on station 4 or anywhere more close to the centre line of the airframe, depending where there is enough space to hang them. Could not identify the other rails (F, E, B). They look very strange on that instruction sheet!!!! Is (B) the AKU-170???? The tail is completely different on the real one!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Best regards Gabor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Niko, Gabor, thank you very much for this info. Based on your input and more pics I tried to find, I am likely going with the following: (2) R-73 --> D (3) R-77 --> B. Yes, I think this is the closest to AKU-170 after Gabor's help with the launcher IDs. (4) R-27R --> C (5) KH-31 --> G. Thanks Niko, I found a pic that confirms this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted November 21, 2017 Share Posted November 21, 2017 For what I've seen on pics pylons B and E are usually mounted under the intakes when tgere are no Kryptons there F pylons look a lot like the one in the rear between the engines but that's just a guess Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peterpools Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 Awesome progress: impeccable work. Keep 'em coming Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted November 23, 2017 Author Share Posted November 23, 2017 Thank you very much Kike, Peter! Kike, you were right about the F pylons. They fit no where but between the engines. A few small steps for a man, even smaller steps for mankind. I found a bag of iridescent confetti at a party store. It was just what I was looking for! These are die cut from an acetate-like sheet, so are ideal for replicating things like the HUD glasses. I also have iridescent film I bought from Michaels, but that is too thin without any rigidity. I have tons of it as you see, let me know if you want some I can send it to those who want it (would only ask for shipping). There is this inexplicable gap in the landing gear doors as I mentioned before that I am trying to patch up: Apoxie putty scraped down to shape with the end of Hasegawa tritool saws (left). The other gaps were filled with Vallejo putty. For even smaller imperfections, I used Vallejo red as the paint itself serves as the filler (right): Other side: Interestingly, underside around the rear engines have given me the most grief. The panel lines are almost non existent as you creep up toward the sides so scribing has been a major challenge. Various closeups showing a mix of scribed, cleaned, and bondo'ed panels, scribed and sanded down lines with slipped scribe visible, scribed but rough lines, and unscribed lines. This shows how ugly these steps usually are: Still ways to go but at least making progress... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 Man!!! great progress!!! Glad I could help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peterpools Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 Terrific work for sure and the oanel lines are really a mystery Keep ‘em comin 😊 Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted December 26, 2017 Author Share Posted December 26, 2017 (edited) Thank you Kike, Peter. Working on more panel lines: The canopy edges are curved, so started with round masks then followed up with the straight sections. I am masking both the outer and inner sides of the canopy, which is very tedious obviously: Straight sections. Mark, trim, blend: Finally onto the cockpit parts! The cockpit blue is a mix of Tamiya flat white, clear blue and clear green. Eyeballing the color as I mix it in the airbrush with the computer on the side for reference pics (thanks Kike!). I had to do this multiple times for different parts, but always eyeballing. Also, I insist to include the parts that are virtually invisible like the control pedals: Edited December 26, 2017 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted December 26, 2017 Author Share Posted December 26, 2017 More paint and wash: I first used the kit decals, which did not go so well: Started over and decided to hand paint. Nothing accurate or anything, just aiming for visual interest. Wash applied (right) and cleaned up (left): For the display screens, cut thin acetate films to size and painted the back sides with slight variation: Screens attached with Krystal Clear, also various other bits attached in the cockpit: Not much to see here except the IP coaming was weathered with oils, Tamiya weathering set, and grease on my fingers. The hud glass and the lens made both from the irridescient confeti I had mentioned earlier. The lens has a dome shape in reality, which I did not bother to replicate: Things coming together. All of these will be only poorly visible behind a closed canopy and seated pilots: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Lovely work on that office Jani!! I like the color! I did it a couple of times too lol!! Remember the seats fabric is brownish on venezuelan Flankers! now I wish I had added at least one pilot! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 What beautiful progress my friend,your craftmanship is inspirational mate! I can ask for some iridescent star Jan? Let me know via PM for the shipment cost. Merry Xsmas! Gianni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 (edited) Thank you Kike, Gianni! Of course, I will send you plenty of those confetti starts. I will PM you. I applied micro mask masking film with a brush. Painted and then weathered with Tamiya pastels (white + brown). The masking film came off easily as a single clean piece, the likes of which the world has never seen before: The instructions have you attach the fuel receptacle door onto the probe first, but the door remains floating above the fuselage in that case. So attached the door first and I plan to cut the probe shorter later: Strengthening the forward fuselage seam with Tamiya two part epoxy. Overall the fit is very good though: And the two halves finally put together: Edited December 27, 2017 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted December 28, 2017 Share Posted December 28, 2017 Getting shape nicely!! This image can be helpful in this stage Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted February 3, 2018 Author Share Posted February 3, 2018 (edited) A few pics from the latest stages. The main challenge in putting together the pieces has been the putty work followed by cleaning up the sanded down details. Seeing the GWH 35S details, the HB details are quite inferior and are quite laborious to deal with (if you are a stickler for having the details sharp and defined): Both wings need to be straightened (they bow up in the middle). Weight on the wing followed by hot hairdryer helps quite a bit: Ran into a major issues with the starboard slat. I had to cut the slat well off and did some major surgery around that region. Filled the slat with milliput. I show this with a single pic bit it was a major - I mean major - source of frustration I must note. I almost gave up: Finally most of the major pieces in place. However, more puttying and scribing is still in the works: Edited February 3, 2018 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted February 3, 2018 Author Share Posted February 3, 2018 A few closeups. Most of the cleanup involved MicroMesh 1500 and 1800. As a final pass, I get in the shower with the model and steel wool 0000, to really clean up the whole thing under running water. The steel wool can be messy and is difficult to deal with under the kitchen sink given the size of the model. Possibly obvious tip: Whenever using steel wool, make sure to clean the work area (the bathtub in my case) really well else the little particles can rust over night and burry themselves deep into wherever they were left. The details under the fins and around the stinger were a bear to recreate: Excuse the blurry pic. I used the needle of a syringe for the cannon barrel: I had no choice but to putty up the slat-wing gap. I have since convinced myself that it looks ok. Waiting for the paint to help it further. I cannot deal with it anymore! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Awesome job jani!! I wish you had started yours long before I had started mine!! Looking forward to see some paint on that beautiful frame! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptainObvious Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 The fix on the slats look fine. I'm glad you pushed through. Cockpit looks great! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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