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1/48 Hobby Boss Su-30MK2 Venezuela AF


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Thank you Kike, Captain, Major! The fuselage is all ready for primer, but I have been spinning my wheels with painting the pilots. Below is what I have. Resin pilots moulded together with the seats. I primed and painted them in black for the seat. Then, I started brush painting with Vallejo acrylics (no pics) starting with the face, then the neck line for the undershirt, then the g-suit, then the white helmet. The helmet looked awful handpainted so I won't do that again. So I removed all the paint so it is back to the naked resin. Ready to give it another shot. 

 

My question: How would you paint this? I am now considering: Airbrush gray primer, brush paint face, t-shirt. Mask face and t-shirt with silly putty. Airbrush helmet in white. Brush paint g-suit, gloves, boots etc. Mask everything. Airbrush seat in black. Brush paint the head rest cushion. But I am super unsure about this. 

 

Is there a general order of things with brush painting such figures? Like inner layers first then outer layers, or paint everything to be airbrushed first then hand brushing? This is proving to be a major hangup. 

 

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Ehi mate,as an ex figure painters,I can told you my modus operandi.

After the primer,I start always with the face for two reason:first,if you obtain a good flesh tone ,this work as morale booster,second 'cause this way minimize the risk of overlapping the colors.

As a my rule,I work from the inner layer to the external.

In your figure,I'll start with the face,followed by the flight suit,the various suit gears and ending with gloves,boots and helmet.

One important thing that will help a lot is to profile the various elements with a dark color,even black.This enhance every single details,help them to pop out.

Some example of my old works.

 

2jQqkG.jpg

 

Lrl7cD.jpg

 

uprmGq.jpg

 

 

Hope this help,if only we live close,I'll be more than happy to invite you to a paint stage (I made quite few here in Rome) or even paint directely your pilot...

 

 

Gianni

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Yes, incredible work Gianni. Exactly what I am looking for. I am tempted to send these to you, but I must give it a try if I shall improve. Four questions (hopefully not too overwhelming):

 

 - Are those acrylic or oil paints?

- Second picture, the guys's face: Are the flesh tones airbrushed or handbrushed? In general, are these mostly brush painted? 

- My pilot's helmet. It will be white. Would you hand brush it, if so, what type of paint would you use? 

- By profiling do you mean a wet oil wash? I suck at creating "tones" for hand brushing but if that's what you mean, would you 'wet' paint those tones or would you 'dry brush' them? I don't know how to get those faded look between the tones with wet brushing. 

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Jan,

I try to ask as best i can,my English sometimes sucks!

 

-All the figures was painted in Valleji and Andrea acrilics,with the exception of the metallic areas

-The Scottish bust was enterely ( like the other two models) handpainted.At the time I don't have any airbrush.

-The secret for the white is to start at least from a light grey and "build" the white adding some drop of white in the basic grey you use,mix the colors and add to the interested area.With acrilics,your work in successive layers,with the color very thinned.I work first on the highlights and sfter I'll build the shadow with a darker shade of the base color.But remember: use the color very thinned ( almost in the same ratio of an airbrush color,or of the milk),especially for the more light tone or the shadow,otherwise you risk to create a mess or damage your previuos job.

After this ,if you need to blend your colors,you can apply a ultra thinned shade ( obviously in the same range of the colors you're actually work with);this,if well used,pratically do the same job of the filter( haltone,in figures speaking) and add also some chromatic variation.These will be applied in the area between the highlights and the shadow,working from the lighter areas in direction of the darker ones,without touch the highlights,if you have already obtained a tone you like.

For example in the bust I used a beige brown,and a magenta and brown for Genghis Khan.

-Profiling:is techically the more simple job;with a very sharp,round brush,work around the single details ( to separate for example a belt from a vest,ecc...).The only secret is a  steady hand!

With a sharp,pointy,good brush you can do almost anythings,look at the close-up of the pony fur,I realized this affect only by brush.

 

PPXANK.jpg

 

nr6st9.jpg

 

You can see one of my precision brushes ( a Japanese Bunseido ) in my Mystere thread in this same forum.Also Windsor&Newton produce great Kolinsky brush.

Also,when you "charge" the brush with color,you need to unload a little on a paper napkin,before paint the model.

The drybrush is a rogue tecnique I use only for the figures terrains!

But I think you can find some tutorial on Youtube, I would be amazed if it were not so!

If you want send me your figure,I will be more than glad to paint for you,as I've already done for other ARCers!!!

I don't know if I still have some of my hold articles with in Progress pics of my figures,if yes I'll scan and send you.

Also try here for some tutorial, very talented guys around this site!

 

Hope this ask at your question and can help a little.

If not don't hesitate contact me again mate!

 

Cheers,

 

Gianni

 

Edited by kurnass77
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Gianni, thank you so much for all the info and the offer. I have been on and off arc but have begun painting the pilots. Hand brushed the face, undershirt and the gsuit. Just masked it with silly putty to airbrush the helmet. 

 

Im battling with the flu. Aaaahh daycare! Ever since my 4yo started it, our doctor visits have skyrocketed. 

Edited by Janissary
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  • 4 weeks later...

Janissary,

  I've never been successful at painting any figures, so as far as i'm concerned, the two figures in the cockpit are looking real good. Especially as they're looking in two different directions.

 

 and Gianni,

    Those are some of the most fantastic figures I've seen period. 

 

Joel

 

 

Edited by Joel_W
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Thank you all. Unfortunately, the pilots turned out a little too dark. I did a future dip to blend the colors. But it blended everything too much. Next time, I will just spray a light layer of future. But, inside the closed canopy, I am going to force myself to look past it :) CJ, I am using parafilm for masking on top of the Tamiya tape edges. I trim the parafilm with a scalpel by running it over the Tamiya tape but without pressing down too hard. 

 

A few more steps. My goal is to freehand the camo as tight as possible, even though the real thing carries a hard edge camo. It's a challenge I look forward to. As for the colors, I have not made a final decision yet, but I will be mixing the colors. I don't want to buy new color bottles so will work with what I have. Here is what I think:

 

- Light gray: Gunze 36375 (light ghost gray)

- Medium: Tamiya XF-54 lightened with white.

- Dark: Tamiya XF-24 lightened with white, and lightly tinted with blue.

 

One question for the experts: Is it true that the underside gray is the same as the light gray on the top? Caracal decal instructions calls it this way. I was wondering if there is a slight difference between the top and the bottom in the light gray color.

 

Primer on. Back surfacer, followed by a mix of gray surfacer + Tamiya white. Just to give a non-uniform base to work with:

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Then, drew the camo pattern:

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Finally, began delineating the camo edge in black. The goal is to establish a boundary for the free hand, and also create the illusion of 'wet' boundaries that I really like. 

IMG_5292.JPG

Edited by Janissary
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Janissary,

   Can't help you with the actual colors, but I'm really super impressed with your black basing technique. Going to definitely use it for my next camo paint scheme.  As for drawing out the camo pattern 1st in pencil, then edging in black. Won't the black show throw the lighter colors?

 

Joel

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Thanks Joel. Yes, the black edges will likely show, and I wanted it to show through ever so slightly to create a visual interest on those curves. Sometimes in the real thing there appears to be a darker, wetter region where the two colors intersect. Not that I saw this on the Su-30s, but it is an effect that I tend to like. So, the base color may end up being totally hidden. Either way, I plan on quite a bit of post-shading. I want it to have a somewhat dirty and tired look. 

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I made the same research Jani, about the lower color, everybody told me it was the same, just as you are thinking here's a pic that I used to convence me it was that way

 

MG_5940.jpg

 

About the camo colors I'm interested in seeing how does it turn out, cause my first thy was using the 36375 as the lighter gray but turned out to be too dark in my opinion that's why I ended up using the 36495 with a bit of French light blue to give it the bluish tone.

 

I think I know where you are heading with the black lines, never seen it on a Venezuelan Flanker but it doesn't mean is not possible! and I'm pretty sure with your skills you'll pull it out really nice!

 

To finish I have this pic of an used Flanker!

 

34_BLDKD.jpg

 

Pics are posted for illustration purposes only! credits to the authors

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  • 3 weeks later...

If I may...... the light gray looks great! the medium one could be toned down a bit with a gray-ish color so you can knock the "beige" down a bit too, and same with the blue, a bit more light and a bit more gray! just my (un-asked) 0.02

 

This image helped me a lot when working on mine!

IMG_7364.jpg

 

you are way close to where I was after a lot of tries tho!

 

 

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Thank you. I agree. The two colors are quite off. What I plan to do is complete the camo with the current colors and silly putty. Then, adjust these two colors by adding quite a bit of XF-19 and possibly white to the mixes to knock down their intensities. I plan to apply these new colors free hand. Will see how it goes. 

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