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1/48 Hobby Boss Su-30MK2 Venezuela AF


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Janissary,

   I usually use filters after I apply a camo paint scheme to both tone it down, as well as adding some dust/dirt for non-Naval aircraft.  I also like the effect of the blotchy air brushing, as it already has added some realistic weathering to the paint. 

 

  Not sure what that mill work is for, but you did a incredible job dong it. 

 

Joel

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Thank you. Yes, quite a bit of repainting, post shading, and weathering will be necessary. This build is tiring me our lately (so want to finish it soon), but we'll see... The steel block is going to be the stand for the in-flight pose. 

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On 4/10/2018 at 9:37 AM, Janissary said:

More work...

 

 

Milled, drilled, reamed, counter-sank, sanded, sand blasted:

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If I may ask, what is this???

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  • 1 month later...

Hi, that is going to be the stand for the inflight pose. Btw, I was wrong when I said the block was sand blasted at the time. Now it is. A few update pics:
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Masking with silly putty seems easy, but can be time consuming:
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Edited by Janissary
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The first set of experimentation went ok, but the colors.... 
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I tried to fix the colors, but just didn't like how it was going. I decided to start over. So I scrubbed the whole think with an old dishwashing sponge to iron out any rough patches. With the flat paint and masking, there can be small but still visible steps especially along the color edges. This gentle sanding also brings a little bit of sheen which I like:
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And back to square one:
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Next, I reapplied the camo colors, this time slightly adjusting the mid and blue gray colors. Also started masking off different panels with parafilm.

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I am now planning to weather this base camo. There is a lot of surface to cover, so I expect some finger strain with the airbrush. 

 

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Janissary,

  A most impressive  2nd effort that looks flawless. 

 

 I do have one question concerning the ridge between the layers you felt after the 1st paint effort. You used Silly putty (which I also use), and it gives you a nice feathered edge, which can be adjusted by the thickness of the worm.  I've gone way to thin once or twice and the demarcation line was more like a fine line, but I never got that raised edge. I'm just wondering why you got one, as your modeling and painting skills are excellent.

Joel

 

 

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Thank you Captain, Joel. I can take no credit for the scribing or riveting; they were already on the kit. But, per my usual practice, I go over them all too deepen them to a consistent depth. It takes a lot of time and is a major PIA, but is necessary for me to stay motivated later on. 

 

Joel, the raised edge with the paint is difficult to explain. It is actually not normally visible, you could not get your nail caught on it, you could not feel it under your finger tips. But, when you apply a uniform color on top as the new base primer (in my case it was metallic black), you can still faintly see the edge between the color. It may even have to do with the different sheens of the bordering camo colors. I wanted those all gone so that after the thin primer, I could proceed with a new coat of camo colors without getting annoyed by what I could see underneath. So, my guess is that the dish sponge just brings all the colors to a similar sheen, which helps alleviate the visible difference under the primer.

 

Hope this helps. 

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Janissary,

  Makes sense. I'm wondering if you're just seeing the two colors bleed through and therefore you can see a very faint demarcation line. I would think that it would vanish with the new primer coat. 

Joel

Edited by Joel_W
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Wow Janissary that looks superb. I really have to get one of these kits. Somehow the Su 30 looks more aggressive than the Su 27UB? Maybe it is the hump.

 

Also I like the idea on your stand. I know it is too late now but you could have bought something like this from a store that supplies machine shops. That block is called a 1-2-3 block because it is 1"x2"x3". Or maybe your block is different dimensions then I am an idiot for suggesting it. I still like it and I may try something like that in the future.

 

Looking forward to the posts where you get some deals on it.

 

 

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Thank you all. Joel, you might be right about the difference in the colors, it might be just the color bleeding. 

 

52 minutes ago, skyhawk174 said:

Also I like the idea on your stand. I know it is too late now but you could have bought something like this from a store that supplies machine shops. That block is called a 1-2-3 block because it is 1"x2"x3". Or maybe your block is different dimensions then I am an idiot for suggesting it. I still like it and I may try something like that in the future.

 

In fact, my inspiration was just that; the 1-2-3 block! I was at a machine shop looking around and found a few of those. I asked the foreman if I could take it, he said no. So I just found a steel block laying there and machined it. Surprisingly, the tactile sensation of both the drilling and reaming were very therapeutic (luckily, I had taken a machine shop course a few years ago so they let me use the machines). I may have a few more inflight displays planned for the future. 

 

Thank you Kursad. I hope it will all come together with your decals. Right now, it is too clean, I am planning to weather it. So I don't know how it will turn up. I hope I can push through. 

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Thank you. Admittedly, the colors still look off to me (blue gray too blue, medium gray somewhat weird) but I'll just plow through. I am now trying to give it a tired look as the first step toward weathering. A lot of post-shading with the lighter and darker tones of the base colors, applied with the airbrush (diffuser off). It takes a lot of time, but, it is relaxing at least:

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I went over the base colors multiple times, still trying to figure out the right balance. Then, I will try some spot weathering, and dirt and grime, or whatever strokes me in the moment.

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Edited by Janissary
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16 hours ago, Janissary said:

Thank you, I am now studying various pics to see how I can weather this further. This is where I get skittish. 

  Janissary,

   I'm always on the conservative side when it comes to weathering. It's easy to continue to add layers to increase the weathering effects, but it's a lot harder to remove one or more. So like I said, go easy,and go slow. I even will take a break between steps, or put it down for a day or two as it always looks different the next day when everything as dried and cured.

 

Joel

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you all. I am continually thinking about how to weather it without going overboard. WG, my a/b pressure reads around 11-14 psi before the a/b trigger is depressed. It goes down to maybe 10psi or so when depressed.

 

I probably have not touched my pressure setting for years. I use the same pressure for priming the model, camo painting and shading. The only thing I tend to do with shading is to thin the paint more than usual, take the crown cap off, get closer to the model, and depress and pull the trigger with more control. Also, since the paint is already quite thin, I don't care about the pattern I apply or the mistakes like spilling over to the wrong camo colors. Shading is very forgiving I'd say.

 

Just a few more updates. A lot of time is spent masking and painting. I'm nearing the gloss coat stages. Just a few more steps to go before I can do that. 

 

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More work will be done on the gun panels after the gloss and matte coats, this is just a base metallic panel at this time.

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Beautiful work. Really enjoy seeing your evolution of the shading on the jet. With all these new Flanker kits coming out, I'm finding myself more and more drawn to these jets and working them into my building plans. Starting a Kinetic SU-33 this weekend! 

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