Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone

Of late I've been pretty content with my standard painting process of cleaning my models with IPA, then priming with Tamiya Extra Fine White primer and continuing with the final paint scheme then glossing before decals etc etc.  However recently I visited a new hobby store opened by a friend to sell a small modest range of models of the more medium to advanced level eg Eduard, new Revell, Wingnut Wings, Zoukai Mura etc etc.  In the store was a glass cabinet featuring some of his models and the level of finish was far better than anything I've ever seen.  Very clean, smooth with that subtle sheen that real aircraft have yet with the subtle weathering also.  After a long discussion on various subjects, I left with out asking the one question that is possible the missing key.

 

Does anyone polish each paint layer from primer to final coat and everywhere in between to achieve a very very smooth finish and if so, what polishing aids is everyone using?

 

I figure that this could be the missing link I'm after to achieve an even more satisfying level of finish to my models.

 

I've tried using high/low spray pressures, extra thinning and using paint retarders and different gloss, satin, flat coats and whilst they are good if not great methods, I still find my self looking for that WOW finish like what I saw in the hobby shop.

 

 

Edited by Andrew Maverick Taylor
Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe it's a good idea to polish between the layers. I tend to use Surfacer 1200, then Tamiya or Gunze Hobby Aqueous acrylics. Especially after the primer, I scrub everything down with an old cotton t-shirt or a very worn out dishwashing sponge. I find this to be necessary to knock down any 'dusty' finish that can appear wtih flat coats and paints. Usually, Gunze paints are semi-gloss, so no extra polishing is needed, but with some Tamiya colors (since they are very flat), I follow a similar procedure of scrubbing the surface down with an old tshirt.

Edited by Janissary
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

I've learned not to put on multi layers of paint, most of our club members do the same.

But once I'm finished applying my paint I do like to use a paper towel to smooth out/lightly buff the paint.

Curt

Link to post
Share on other sites

What you are asking about is precisely the BEST tip I have received in the past years - polish the paint as part of surface prep.   I generally only use Mr Color or MRP, my procedure is to take 4K grit micromesh sanding pads fairly lightly followed up by their 6K grit, this gets the paint shiny which really reveals all flaws.   The point of this is to knock down any remaining grain from the paint to render the most smooth surface possible for decaling and it really pays off as you noticed from the display case builds.    Coarser grits can damage your finish so practice for what feels right.   I do not do this on Alclad painted areas.  Again take CARE to not gouge your work nor work so hard as to cause joint or part damage.   You'll see how this improves your final work!

Edited by metroman
Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to polish between all coats, including undercoat of Tamiya spraycan primer with an old piece of t-shirt. For my current build I got a paint polishing cloth set of 3200 to 12000 micromesh and have been using that to good effect.  This set is really for polishing paint to a high shine on car models and you are supposed to do it very systematically and carefully starting with 3200 and working through all 8 grades to 12000.  However, I just use a few grades (mostly 4000, 8000, 120000) to smooth out the grainy finish.  I've been using it on the Alclad too, to remove some of the more shiny pigments on my Fouga as I want a dull finish.

Link to post
Share on other sites

   I went to rubbing out my primer coats, as well as each color with a Micro Mesh 6k or 8k pad including my clear coats. It's made a huge difference in the smoothness of the model's surface for decal application, then washes of any type.    You just have to be careful with any raised surfaces as it's really easy to remove the paint. 

 

  I've always had issues with turbulence in close confined areas, but with rubbing out each layer, those issues are a thing of the past as well.

 

Joel

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...