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Question about oil wash on cockpits


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Hi, I need a little help...I've come across a number of articles of Navy aircraft cockpit weathering using burnt umber oil wash and they look so realistic.   So I thinned some oil paint in mineral spirits and brushed it onto cockpit panels, floors and sidewalls -- and managed to strip off the enamel base paint.      Even on areas coated with flat lacquer the paint stripped to the plastic.   What am I doing wrong?   And what would be the correct way to apply the oil wash?    I've even seen vids where the wash is applied by brush vigorously -- I'm amazed the base paint is able to stand it.    Thanks in advance!

Edited by crackerjazz
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This is what works for me: I coat all painted parts with Future. I thin the oil paint with odorless turpenoid to the consistency of very dirty thinner-just experiment. Apply where appropriate, usually in corners and the edges of raised detail. Let it sit for a few minutes then wipe off the excess with a cotton cloth and leave some stains too as it looks like dirt. After the wash dries I go back over the high areas with a drybrush treatment using a lightened tone of the original color. Burnt umber is great for interiors.I prefer raw umber, especially on natural metal, for exterior panel lines. It makes the lines look more realistic and less toy-like. Camo schemes sometimes look better with other color washes. I have never had any trouble with the wash damaging any paint through the Future.

 

This is my number-one favorite modeling technique and the reason I and many others only build kits with recessed panel lines. Good luck.

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I usually seal all weathering with another coat of future and then like Bob said an acrylic flat or semigloss. I usually use Polly Scale just because my stock of it is older than my ModelMaster Acryl but they work the same. I dilute the Poly Scale with warm water and it works perfectly. I stear clear of lacquer coats because I used to have alot of trouble getting a smooth gloss coat but that was twenty years ago. As I recall I used to use Testors Dull Coat with no problems and I think that was lacquer. Again, like Bob said, for lacquer, misted coats are your friend. For the base and sealing coats of Future I have trouble with misting it on so I put it on wet and never have a problem.

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Crackerjazz, just use a mild thinner for your oil paints- I use Humbrol Thinners or Odorless Turpenoid by Weber from and art supply store, framing store etc. Hardware store turpentine is way too "hot", as the kids say today. ;) I also put a bit of Windsor and Newton Liquin (a pinkish goo that dries clear)in my wash mix- it speeds drying time and helps the wash spread nice and evenly. After the wash has has a few minutes to set up, I lightly run a foam make-up sponge (from the ladies' aisle ant any drugstore) over the washed ares to pick up any excess. Experiment, have fun- and enjoy the fruits of your labors- cheers!

chuk

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Wow, thanks for all the tips, guys!    I laid down a coat of Future on the cockpit this morning so that it'll be thoroughly dry when I get home tonight.   I have to swing by Michaels for some Odorless Turpenoid - can't wait to experiment.   Really appreciate the replies -- it all makes sense to me now.   

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Hey, that really worked!   I understand it now.  Future, which is acrylic, provides a transparent barrier against the wash's solvent.     I would never have experimented with this as it's counter to rules such as to never paint acrylic over enamel or vice versa.  But I'm amazed that it works and how beautifully the oils blend into the base color.  Thanks again, guys!

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