RichardL Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 14 hours ago, Mstor said: To me the MRP paints are a bit too light. Don't you want the hobby paints to be slightly on the lighter side anyway for scale effect? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 (edited) 6 minutes ago, Mr Matt Foley said: Weathering et.al will always impact the final look. However, it's always best to start out with a good match and let weathering take its course, just like on the real thing. On the full scale, mother nature does the weathering on the "exact match". Edited March 6, 2018 by RichardL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Doppelgänger Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 10 hours ago, Scooby said: Was this a short shot or are they just plain old missing? If it is the latter that is odd. Hi, Scooby. Very nice to meet you. Yes, it's odd; the tree looks as though the wingtip pylons had been cut with a nipper from the sprue gates. I might take a picture to demonstrate it. 7 hours ago, RCAFFAN said: I don't have the kit (or work in that scale or know much about Russian aircraft) but just by looking at this thread and the in progress thread it is pretty clear that the kit doesn't have any wingtip pylons because it provides some sort of pods that go on the wingtips (Gabor puts the pods together on page 2 of his "in progress" thread) ....... Hi, RCAFFAN. Very nice to meet you too. Yes, the GWH kit brings both the Sorbitsa pods you mention and the regular wingtip pylons. Check them out on top of the pylons sprue in the picture that Solo has posted above. What to do? Perhaps someone wants to sell their wingtip pylons to me if using the Sorbitsa instead? Thanks for the replies. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Matt Foley Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 1 hour ago, RichardL said: However, it's always best to start out with a good match and let weathering take its course, just like on the real thing. On the full scale, mother nature does the weathering on the "exact match". Agreed. But looking for spot on perfection is almost impossible. And no two samples will have identical weathering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 1 hour ago, Mr Matt Foley said: Agreed. But looking for spot on perfection is almost impossible. And no two samples will have identical weathering. I agree with you and the others who point out the weathering and scale effect should be taken into account. And that it is impossible to get it perfect. That said, if I can, I still would like to start with paints that are both close in hue and intensity(saturation). These effect the overall look of the finished camo. With the Su-33 I am working on now, the MRP light grey is off, being a plain warm Lt grey when it is supposed to be a cool lt blue grey. I think it greatly effects the overall look of the model. The Su-33s I have seen that used the MRP lt grey all look wrong to me. I know its basically just my preference, but once I discover a color is wrong, either in hue or intensity, I can't unsee it. So I am using AKAN's lt grey. It's not a perfect match either, but its close and its the right hue and intensity. I'm not looking for perfection, I'm just looking for what looks right, if that makes any sense. BTW, I found out today that AKAN is releasing a Su-35s paint set. Coincidentally, the colors are the same as those in one of their Su-27sm sets (# 47332). The Su-27sm set is only available in the water based paints. The new set will be lacquer based paints. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BoeingDriver Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Sprue Bros says "likely next week" to be in stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raptor71 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 this is a troublesome problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Matt Foley Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Wow, that is a troublesome problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Solo Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 What happened? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raptor71 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Solo said: What happened? It is about flow lines. I believe that the problem is due to the fact that the transparency has different thicknesses. This caused during the injection of the plastic in the mold a speed displacement that caused this problem. Edited March 9, 2018 by Raptor71 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 12 minutes ago, Raptor71 said: It is about flow lines. I believe that the problem is due to the fact that the transparency has different thicknesses. This caused during the injection of the plastic in the mold a speed displacement that caused this problem. Yea, its molded that way so they can pull out the inside mold. They can get the "omega" shape on the outside because the use two molds that come in from the sides, hence the mold separation line that we all gripe about having to sand and polish. I believe you are correct about the speed displacement (I believe someone posted a link that info on various injection molding problems and their causes). I think the flow line problem is probably a little more common than we'd like. I found one in my Kinetic Su-33 canopy last night after I sanded and polished off the mold line on top. Oh well, nothing for it. Push on ;-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 53 minutes ago, Mstor said: hence the mold separation line that we all gripe about having to sand and polish. I mentioned it on another thread about the GWH Su-35S build - but no-one seems to have picked it up? How can you eliminate the mould separation line on the tinted canopy??? Just a thought. Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ching kuo Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 1 hour ago, Raptor71 said: this is a troublesome problem Oh yes, it's big troublesome problem !! the kit is worthless with cracked canopy, if it is very deep, sanded and polished will not solve the problem !! I hope you find a way to exchange it ! good luck . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raptor71 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) The colored canopy looks like this. Same flow lines. The problem is more pronounced. https://flic.kr/p/252D2gT Edited March 9, 2018 by Raptor71 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Berkut Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) Once again, sand and polish will do nearly nothing about this. The issue is in the plastic, cant polish that out. At best one could dip it in future to make it somewhat more uniform, but it wont help much at all. Edited March 9, 2018 by Berkut Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raptor71 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 17 minutes ago, Berkut said: Ancora una volta, sabbia e lucidare farà quasi nulla di questo. La questione è in plastica, il polacco non posso che fuori. Nella migliore delle ipotesi si potrebbe immergerlo in futuro per rendere in qualche modo più uniforme, ma non lo aiuterà molto a tutti. Hi Berkut. I did not understand if you are referring to the photo above and the scratches that you see. In this case, bear in mind that the canopy has NOT had any polishing. The canopy that you see (and all the signs) are like that. -Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 1 hour ago, Flankerman said: How can you eliminate the mould separation line on the tinted canopy??? Same as with a clear canopy. The tint is in the plastic itself, not something applied to it. Just sand and polish (and dip in shiny stuff of your choice if that is what you like to do, I do) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ching kuo Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Raptor71 said: The colored canopy looks like this. Same flow lines. The problem is more pronounced. You're unlucky !! both canopy are cracked Edited March 9, 2018 by ching kuo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Solo Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 The replacement of this part will change nothing. I had exactly the same problem with canopies from such kits like Tamiya F-16C (few kits), Hobby Boss A-10A, Academy F-4J Da Nang, Hobby Boss F-14A Danger Zone, Airfix EE Lighning or Hobby Boss F-105G. All of them had such visible scratch-not-scratch issue on canopy or windshield, and for all of them I had received replacement parts from manufacturer or retailer. And for all of them I had received replacement parts with exactly the same issue. This is not accidental issue, this is just a feature. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raptor71 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 6 minutes ago, ching kuo said: Absolutely NOT! The canopy is NOT cracked. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ching kuo Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 2 minutes ago, Raptor71 said: Absolutely NOT! The canopy is NOT cracked. sorry, bad word, I meant "mold default" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raptor71 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 1 minute ago, ching kuo said: mi dispiace, brutta parola, volevo dire "default stampo" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Laurent Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 29 minutes ago, ching kuo said: sorry, bad word, I meant "mold default" You meant "mold defect". I rather think it's an injection defect (weld lines). If it's indeed the case, customers support could provide replacement sprue...if GWH has a customers support department. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raptor71 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 some time later ... stamping line removal on colored canopy. Naturally the flow lines are still there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 let's now just hope Haneto come back to us with some vacform canopy for the GWH Su-35S ...kind of like what he did for the Academy Su-27... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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