A-10 LOADER Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Great progress so far Janne but, I gotta ask, why do you still use the green putty for filler ? Loctite Super Glue Ultragel is much easier AND faster IMO. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Janne, I'm still amazed that you've gotten this far with the kit. Kinetic couldn't even get the nose correct. Very nice correction with the strip plastic for the canopy. Hang in there buddy, you're beating it into submission one step at a time. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 3 hours ago, A-10 LOADER said: Great progress so far Janne but, I gotta ask, why do you still use the green putty for filler ? Loctite Super Glue Ultragel is much easier AND faster IMO. Steve Thanx Steve :D Truth is I like the green stuff, it's easy to sand and it cures without shrinking....and well it is what I've got :) 2 hours ago, Joel_W said: Janne, I'm still amazed that you've gotten this far with the kit. Kinetic couldn't even get the nose correct. Very nice correction with the strip plastic for the canopy. Hang in there buddy, you're beating it into submission one step at a time. Joel Thanx for the words of encouragement, Joel :D I'll get it done in the end....it's a test of stamina and will:D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Janne, I stopped using Squadron Green Stuff years ago. I've been using Bondo #3 Glazing and Spot automotive putty. Sands to a feathered edge better then anything I've ever tried. Dries quickly, doesn't really shrink all that much, and I've been able to scribe it with light passes without it chipping. Something that I always struggled with using Green Stuff. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Major Walt Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 37 minutes ago, Joel_W said: Janne, I stopped using Squadron Green Stuff years ago. I've been using Bondo #3 Glazing and Spot automotive putty. Sands to a feathered edge better then anything I've ever tried. Dries quickly, doesn't really shrink all that much, and I've been able to scribe it with light passes without it chipping. Something that I always struggled with using Green Stuff. Joel I echo Joel’s sentiments on the Bondo glazing putty. Once I started using it, I’ve never looked back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 C'mon mate,its time to beat this beast! I echo Steve: CA glue and talc powder,if I need a quick filling.If I need a more extensive work,maybe followed by some rescribing job,I use melted sprue. Gianni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 I use CA at times but only in small spots since it's hard to sand.....Bondo, well not found here :( Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChernayaAkula Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 1 hour ago, Aigore said: I use CA at times but only in small spots since it's hard to sand..... <...> That's where the talcum powder comes into play. Makes it way easier to sand than neat CA. Adding a tiny bit of black pigment will make it stand out against the grey plastic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 (edited) Janne, When I do use CCA glue as a filler, especially on clear glass, I never let it cure more then 1 hour tops. Overnight and you're sanding a rock. up to one hour unless you're pouring it on, and it sands pretty easily. As for the Bondo, go to any retail automotive store and ask for spot and glazing body putty. It comes in a tube not a gallon bucket that needed for major body work. Joel Edited February 18, 2018 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 (edited) Whenever I use the gel CA, I immediately hit it with "Insta-set" and start sanding right away. The longer it sets, the harder it gets to sand. The green / red stuff in the tube is called, Nitra stain or spot / glazing putty. I worked in a body shop for 4 years, restoring muscle cars. This is used for filling small pin holes or scratches in the bondo areas after you've primed. It dosen't work very well for filling deep areas. Then the entire area would get wet sanded with a block. Steve Edited February 18, 2018 by A-10 LOADER Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 26 minutes ago, A-10 LOADER said: Whenever I use the gel CA, I immediately hit it with "Insta-set" and start sanding right away. The longer it sets, the harder it gets to sand. The green / red stuff in the tube is called, Nitra stain or spot / glazing putty. I worked in a body shop for 4 years, restoring muscle cars. This is used for filling small pin holes or scratches in the bondo areas after you've primed. It dosen't work very well for filling deep areas. Then the entire area would get wet sanded with a block. Steve Steve, Which makes it perfect for modeling applications. I've been using it for years with perfect results. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
clioguy Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 20 hours ago, ChernayaAkula said: That's where the talcum powder comes into play. Makes it way easier to sand than neat CA. Adding a tiny bit of black pigment will make it stand out against the grey plastic. I use almost exclusively CA as a filler. Used several putties in the past like Green Stuff, Mr Putty, etc with mixed results. I now use CA and zap it with accelerator so I can start sanding immediately. Like that it is not too hard. With regards to talcum powder, I have heard of it before... so do you just sprinkle the powder on the fresh CA? How is it done exactly? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 1 hour ago, clioguy said: I use almost exclusively CA as a filler. Used several putties in the past like Green Stuff, Mr Putty, etc with mixed results. I now use CA and zap it with accelerator so I can start sanding immediately. Like that it is not too hard. With regards to talcum powder, I have heard of it before... so do you just sprinkle the powder on the fresh CA? How is it done exactly? Personally,I mix the CA and the talcum to obtain the desired density needed. Just finishe a whole morning of CA fillinf/sanding for restoring a Sideshow Alien statue and work perfectly,the repaired areas are like glass now. But remember,the more powder you add ,the more quick the CA dry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Wow nice tip about the CA and talcum powder, thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Aigore, Looks like you're gonna end up beating this beast after all; congratulations! I've never personally built the Kinetic A-6 but I've inspected the kit up close, that said, I would have suggested you opt for the HB kit instead before you committed yourself. If it wasn't for the folding wings and recessed panel lines, some might say that even the Monogram kit is a better option. Regardless, you've done an admirable job on this project; can;t wait to see it finished. Elmo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 On 2018-02-19 at 7:12 PM, wardog said: Aigore, Looks like you're gonna end up beating this beast after all; congratulations! I've never personally built the Kinetic A-6 but I've inspected the kit up close, that said, I would have suggested you opt for the HB kit instead before you committed yourself. If it wasn't for the folding wings and recessed panel lines, some might say that even the Monogram kit is a better option. Regardless, you've done an admirable job on this project; can;t wait to see it finished. Elmo Thanx Elmo :D Well, the kinetics kit was what I had so I had to go with that :P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 Time for that intruder again :P Now I´m getting somewhere actually :D LAst filling...I hope :P Well I had to fill around the canopy frame as well... Re primed...I´m calling that done. I primed the canopy in flat black. Then gray... Got the ill fitting fuselage air brakes in place with some carving and sanding :P Filled some holes in the wing tip brakes. Put together some small stuff, pylons and what have you. Primed in white and gray Wing tip brakes in place...I opted for open positions because they look cool when open :D A bit of spot priming here adn there and now I think it´s ready for shading :D A gentle gray preshade to make the surface interesting... Then on with the light gull grey...It´ll be a pretty new bird from 1966 s I´ll keep the weathering on the light side. :D There! Moving along nicely now :D Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Janne, Now that's progress with a capital P for sure. Those wing tip speed brakes do look good in the open position. Not many builds have them that way. I do like your combination pre-shading and black basing technique of combining both, and going sparingly with the botch basing effect. That's something I've been thinking about, as it certainly has it merits and uses to further vary the weathering overall look.. and just may be more realistic in the end. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Janne, you're really doing an outstanding job on this! Bravo!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 4 hours ago, Joel_W said: Janne, Now that's progress with a capital P for sure. Those wing tip speed brakes do look good in the open position. Not many builds have them that way. I do like your combination pre-shading and black basing technique of combining both, and going sparingly with the botch basing effect. That's something I've been thinking about, as it certainly has it merits and uses to further vary the weathering overall look.. and just may be more realistic in the end. Joel Thanx Joel :D I have a vision of the end product and use the tools in my toolbox to aproximate my vision :D Unfortunalely I have only found black and whitemphotos of my subject. 3 hours ago, dnl42 said: Janne, you're really doing an outstanding job on this! Bravo!! Thanx dnl :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Finally the color my friend! I can't wait to see the Tadpole finished! Gianni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 51 minutes ago, kurnass77 said: Finally the color my friend! I can't wait to see the Tadpole finished! Gianni Me too, mate :D It has been a labor of masochism:P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Nice progress, your getting there. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 10 hours ago, Aigore said: Me too, mate :D It has been a labor of masochism:P No, I think is a work of love! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 12 hours ago, A-10 LOADER said: Nice progress, your getting there. Steve Thanx Steve :D 2 hours ago, kurnass77 said: No, I think is a work of love! With a saftey word... :P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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