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Flyboy3394

F-15E Strike Eagle color issue

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4 hours ago, Flyboy3394 said:

...as apparently the nose section is typically lighter than the main fuselage. 

 

 

Depends.  More often it's the other way around since the radomes aren't painted w/the jet.  Definitely check your references if you're building a particular jet.  There are some w/lighter radomes.

 

IMG_6492.jpg

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14 minutes ago, BoeingDriver said:

 

Depends.  More often it's the other way around since the radomes aren't painted w/the jet.  Definitely check your references if you're building a particular jet.  There are some w/lighter radomes.

 

IMG_6492.jpg

Not doing a specific jet... Just didn't want to paint the radome the same exact shade as the rest of the plane. Good to know though. I guess I will try to figure out a specific plane to go for! Was your bird lighter or darker? Maybe I will go with that!

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2 minutes ago, Flyboy3394 said:

Not doing a specific jet... Just didn't want to paint the radome the same exact shade as the rest of the plane. Good to know though. I guess I will try to figure out a specific plane to go for! Was your bird lighter or darker? Maybe I will go with that!

 

It was darker.  That pic is my old jet.  Same radome since I installed it in 2001.

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On August 31, 2017 at 1:56 PM, Flyboy3394 said:On another note, anyone have opinions on the colors I should be painting the missiles/bombs? 

 

Comcerning the Color of the engine bay panels, yes titanium paint I have always found to,be a bit on the dark side so I would do is lighten it with a bit of natural aluminum  then it you can do the heat discolouration around the edging of each panel with purple and bluish tint.  We use to polish our engine bays so they were like a mirror sp that's why they might possibly look like they are lighter in Color. Underneath the horizontal stabs there is the primary heat exchanger,exhaust ,,it can get very hot so there will be discolouration  there as well.

Missles on an E? Well missle would be light aircraft gray with natural.metal fins, yellow stripping on the or near the nose to,designate live warhead with brown stripe on the rear to designate live rocket motor, if training stripes are in blue. 

Bombs would be mostly be OD with yellow striping if a live round, you'll have to dealve more into reference  for specific munitions and configurations to as all munitions the migh be variation. 

The radome might not be a match in Color due to numerous reasons, weathering, not being able to be painted with the aircraft and also it was the easiest thing to remove if needed on another aircraft that was on the schedule. There was a time we would have to play musical radomes so certain aircraft made the next day's sortie.

cheers

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On 8/29/2017 at 1:09 AM, BoeingDriver said:

 

That is a cool build you had there.  I was scratching my head a bit, but cool none the less.  I personally know two of those guys whose names are on the side of that jet.

Thank you. That build started out as an F-15K after I saw some cool factory roll out pics. I got bored with all them asking in the middle, so just slapped on the decals towards the end. And here it is finished: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/236818-revell-148-f-15e-f-15k-what-if/ 

 

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1 hour ago, Janissary said:

Thank you. That build started out as an F-15K after I saw some cool factory roll out pics. I got bored with all them asking in the middle, so just slapped on the decals towards the end. And here it is finished: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/236818-revell-148-f-15e-f-15k-what-if/ 

 

 

It's soooo cool!!!  Clean too.  Awesome job!!!!

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Hi all,

 

About ready to begin the decaling and panel line wash portion of the build. Before i do, i have a few questions. 

 

First, I have been using Enamel paints, so am i able to use an enamel wash over enamel paint? I bought the Abteilung black weathering oil paint. I plan on doing a clear coat to protect the paint. As such, is using enamel over enamel ok? Or must I use an acrylic wash? 

 

Second, when talking about clear coating. I want to protect the paint, so i had planned on doing a flat coat over the whole model, then a gloss coat in the areas where decals will go, then another flat coat once the decals are set and dried. Anyone have any suggestions on this? I have never used waterslide decals before, nor done a panel line wash, so I am not sure if my proposed method is a good one. 

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Hi,

 

You'll need to use an acrylic/water-based wash over enamel. If you use a solvent-based wash, it will damage the underlying paint. I learned that lesson the hard way! See below for an exception.

 

There is no need to apply that first flat coat you mention. Just hit it with a clear gloss coat to prep it for decals. You don't mention what you plan to use for the clear coat, but an enamel or lacquer-based clear coat, like Tamiya or Testors, might damage the underlying paint. Some folks, including me (once or twice, long ago), use these with success, but I prefer to use an acrylic, so it doesn't harm the paint if you accidentally apply it too heavily. Craft stores sell acrylic clear coats in rattle cans, or you can get some to spray with an airbrush, if you prefer. Future Floor Polish, or whatever they're calling now, sprayed right out of the bottle, makes a great clear gloss coat that is pretty foolproof to apply and gives you a tough finish to work with. You can even use an enamel-based wash over it.

 

Once you've applied your decals to your shiny model, you can hit it with another clear gloss coat to protect it for your wash. Let that dry, apply your wash, let that dry, and then hit it with a clear flat coat. I prefer Microscale's acrylic clear flat, but I'm old fashioned. There are many other good ones from just about every company that makes model paint. 

 

HTH.

Ben

 

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17 minutes ago, Ben Brown said:

Hi,

 

You'll need to use an acrylic/water-based wash over enamel. If you use a solvent-based wash, it will damage the underlying paint. I learned that lesson the hard way! See below for an exception.

 

There is no need to apply that first flat coat you mention. Just hit it with a clear gloss coat to prep it for decals. You don't mention what you plan to use for the clear coat, but an enamel or lacquer-based clear coat, like Tamiya or Testors, might damage the underlying paint. Some folks, including me (once or twice, long ago), use these with success, but I prefer to use an acrylic, so it doesn't harm the paint if you accidentally apply it too heavily. Craft stores sell acrylic clear coats in rattle cans, or you can get some to spray with an airbrush, if you prefer. Future Floor Polish, or whatever they're calling now, sprayed right out of the bottle, makes a great clear gloss coat that is pretty foolproof to apply and gives you a tough finish to work with. You can even use an enamel-based wash over it.

 

Once you've applied your decals to your shiny model, you can hit it with another clear gloss coat to protect it for your wash. Let that dry, apply your wash, let that dry, and then hit it with a clear flat coat. I prefer Microscale's acrylic clear flat, but I'm old fashioned. There are many other good ones from just about every company that makes model paint. 

 

HTH.

Ben

 

Ben,

 

Thanks for the tips! I have a few options here then. I do have future, and have used it on other kinds of models before with good success. So it sounds like thats my go to in this situation. I will spray with future, dry, apply decals, more future, oil wash, and then a flat coat. I have a bunch of spray flat coats from mr color, and also some bottles of Model Masters. I think the MM ones are enamel, and the other spray bottles may be lacquer. If i have used future over my paint, could i use Lacquer/enamel flat coats? 

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I think you'll be okay, but get a second and third opinion from others on this forum, just to be sure. I haven't tried it myself, but I've read that fully cured Future won't be damaged by lacquers or enamels.

 

Ben

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Hi all,

 

Any ideas for a color to use for the clear/green HUD screen and the displays for a strike eagle. Ref. picture here: 

Image result for f15e HUD

 

I have Tamiya clear blue and clear yellow that would mix to a clear green, then could allow the tiny little clear bit to be dipped. 

 

Additionally, I have a paint pen (below) meant for the green eyes of Gundam models that Looks decent as the display screens I did on a tester. 

Image result for gundam eye marker

Heres an accurate color swatch representation: 

Image result for gundam eye marker 

Edited by Flyboy3394

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7 hours ago, Flyboy3394 said:

Hi all,

 

Any ideas for a color to use for the clear/green HUD screen and the displays for a strike eagle. Ref. picture here: 

Image result for f15e HUD

 

I have Tamiya clear blue and clear yellow that would mix to a clear green, then could allow the tiny little clear bit to be dipped. 

 

Additionally, I have a paint pen (below) meant for the green eyes of Gundam models that Looks decent as the display screens I did on a tester. 

Image result for gundam eye marker

Heres an accurate color swatch representation: 

Image result for gundam eye marker 

 

 

The HUD Combining Glass is clear, it is the thickness of the glass that reacts to light like a Prisim. The best thing I have seen to replicate this effect is something I saw on eBay or if you can find it clear prisim tape. 

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BoeingDriver, what happens after you leave the service from such an exciting job, do they allow you to visit your old plane? what do people do, is life ever the same or is it just a job? or do you still think/dream about it?

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I can answer this one, Everybody asks that question, believe it . After 20 years on the 15 you find yourself missing the jet and the comradery of friends. One thing I can say get as much education as you can out of the military. When you do become a civilian at the least you can set your own course if you still crave the excitement. I went to rthe engineering management side and found excitement working the manufacturing areas such as NASA, JSF program and R&D. I would like to get back to flying but it’s gotten so expensive. So my answer to this question is after 20 years working on Ferraris would you really want to work on a bus! Besides allot of the guys can get civilian jobs working the fighters in the states and some other countries. Miss my jets, yes I do but got grandchildren  to keep the excitement in my life, and models of course!

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13 hours ago, DarkKnight said:

BoeingDriver, what happens after you leave the service from such an exciting job, do they allow you to visit your old plane? what do people do, is life ever the same or is it just a job? or do you still think/dream about it?

 

I left the military after 13 years working & teaching the F-15 to “live the dream” job. By far it’s the easiest job in aviation.  But like I said, it’s my job so it doesn’t define who I am.  

 

However, a Crew Chief is who I am.  I know it sounds funny, but working the jet & being around the best guys ever was a life lesson.  Those experiences did make me who I am. I really miss the jet & the folks I worked with & worked for.  I think about them & that airplane everyday.

 

 I went to a retirement ceremony & there she was.  I worked that particular airplane for six years.  The 4th Strike ever built.

Edited by BoeingDriver

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Another question, mainly out of curiosity. 

 

Do/did Strike Eagles ever carry more than the normal underwing Air to Air loadout? Basically, were there ever Aim-120s or Aim-9s on the lower fuselage hardpoints? 

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Yes. Here's a load-out from Operation Southern Watch. http://www.f-15e.info/joomla/en/weapons/loadout-configurations/127-southern-watch

 

They can carry up to four AIM-7's or AIM-120's on the lower CFT pylons. The F-15E is not usually assigned to a CAP roll (that's what the A/B/C/D is for) but it CAN perform the mission. The CFT's take very little from the F-15E's operational envelope. 

 

Aaron 

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Another quick query. How would I modify this kit (for future ref.) to have the flaps down. I have seen others do so with this kit, but do not want to cut into it without at least a little know how. 

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On 2017-10-21 at 6:41 AM, Ol Crew Dog said:

I can answer this one, Everybody asks that question, believe it . After 20 years on the 15 you find yourself missing the jet and the comradery of friends. One thing I can say get as much education as you can out of the military. When you do become a civilian at the least you can set your own course if you still crave the excitement. I went to rthe engineering management side and found excitement working the manufacturing areas such as NASA, JSF program and R&D. I would like to get back to flying but it’s gotten so expensive. So my answer to this question is after 20 years working on Ferraris would you really want to work on a bus! Besides allot of the guys can get civilian jobs working the fighters in the states and some other countries. Miss my jets, yes I do but got grandchildren  to keep the excitement in my life, and models of course!

 

Same-same. Worked Hornets and five other airframes in the CAF (RCAF now). I miss the people, I miss the job and the comradery. Although my squadron mates are friends for life though.

 

Agree on the education. I managed to get both a University and College Degree out of the military. I now make a great income in the medical world. I credit everything I have on my military career. Communication, leadership, and teamwork skills were all developed in the military.

 

Recently one of my friends got back in, served 25 years and was out for 5. He says the transition was easy and he only dropped one rank (which he will get back fast).

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7 hours ago, Flyboy3394 said:

Another quick query. How would I modify this kit (for future ref.) to have the flaps down. I have seen others do so with this kit, but do not want to cut into it without at least a little know how. 

Cut the flaps off at the hinge line, super glue a piece of spruce the correct size to fit the leading edge of the flap at the hinge line. Round this off with a bit of putty and walls you had a cambered leading edge, thin down the wing a bit so the flap leading edge fits. Eagle flaps only had two position , up and down no in between. 

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