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Well, as of about 5 minutes ago this all happened:

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Decided to strip this guy completely, and use this as my test/guinea pig model. I ordered another duplicate kit and will take the lessons learned in this comedy of errors and apply them to perfecting the next one. Good news is I only screwed up on the main body (sort of good news) and therefore will only really need to build that part of the jet when the new one arrives. 

 

I also ordered the Aires resin exhaust nozzles for the kit to make it even more detailed on the next pass. 

 

Lessons learned: 

1. Testors acrylic wash sucks and is banned from my bench. 

2. Future is acrylic and will mix with other acrylic stuff (duh)

3. Do NOT use a heat gun on any part of my models. 

4. Patience is a virtue. 

5. I can actually do this and do it well, given I take the other lessons to heart! 

 

So unless anyone wants to see me do this all (mostly) over again, this is going to be my last post until something either goes wrong or goes really well, or until I finish the new kit.

 

Thanks for tuning in!

 

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Oh boy!!! sorry to see that! but I'm glad you take it like a man! that's the spirit! weather you win or learn!

 

Don't forget to add to your list painting canopy black first so you can see that color from the interior!

 

You were doing such a nice job on your eagle! I'm sure the second one will be a stunner!

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Glad to hear you are determined!  Bad things happen building models - case in point, I dropped my Spitfire this morning and spent all afternoon fixing broken ailerons, elevator, rudder, fuse spinal crack 😱   

 

When these moments happen it's good to walk away and do something else for a bit and then return mentally refreshed.  Glad you will press on!

 

Steve

Edited by Falconxlvi
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1 hour ago, Flyboy3394 said:

 

Which scoops? Bit confused about what you are referring to. 

I saw a ram air scoop on the right CFT, under the wing, but above the CFT bomb rack.

 

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Edited by BoeingDriver
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50 minutes ago, Flyboy3394 said:

Interesting. Must be an addition for the Slam Eagle they are using this kit as a base for. 

 

 

Yes sir.  -229 & GE powered jets have a fixed scoop.  -220 powered, in which you're building, have a variable inlet door.

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Got the new kit and began cutting and sanding. Will begin initial build tomorrow. Hopefully prime by weekend and paint next week sometime. 

 

Cannot, however, figure out how to properly build these Aires Exhaust parts. Anyone have a suggestion? Directions are so lacking its not even funny. Do I need to cut stuff off? Do I need special glue to put the actuator rods on? So confused.... 

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Man, hello :) I so much wanted to avoid commenting on this build... but :) I think that if you don`t have a test model yet, where you can test different painting techniques and procedures, maybe that`s the perfect moment to keep this model for testing and experimenting. For example, my "Buster" is an ancient 1/72 Tomcat model, and has about a dozen different coats of paint, masked layers, decals and so on... Everyone needs a "Buster". :) 

 

PS: that`s only if you don`t have one, still. Otherwise, i would also choose to buy the same 1/72 model again instead of spending on aftermarket, readjustments, etc...

 

All the best! Just remember that there is nothing to compare with experiementing differen and new techniques, than experimenting on a real, assembled model.

 

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53 minutes ago, my favs are F`s said:

Man, hello :) I so much wanted to avoid commenting on this build... but :) I think that if you don`t have a test model yet, where you can test different painting techniques and procedures, maybe that`s the perfect moment to keep this model for testing and experimenting. For example, my "Buster" is an ancient 1/72 Tomcat model, and has about a dozen different coats of paint, masked layers, decals and so on... Everyone needs a "Buster". :) 

 

PS: that`s only if you don`t have one, still. Otherwise, i would also choose to buy the same 1/72 model again instead of spending on aftermarket, readjustments, etc...

 

All the best! Just remember that there is nothing to compare with experiementing differen and new techniques, than experimenting on a real, assembled model.

 

 

Well I certainly have a fully assembled tester now! Got the new kit and will begin that shortly. 

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YIKES!

Been there and done that more then once. Not too long ago I laid down my 32nd scale tamiya Mossie on a paper towel soaked with tamiya Air brush cleaner - what a disaster. weeks of work restoring the wings and a lesson learned.

I've stripped more then my share of models - all 32nd scale tamiya kist numerous times for various reasons. My paint remover of choice and from more practice then I care to admit: Mr Color Self leveling Thinner. It's lacquer but won't harm plastic - just removes the  paint. Any other lacquer thinner used and kiss the model good bye.

My best recommendation regardless of the paint used: Gloss Clear coats need to be lacquer, as they are pretty much impervious to all panel washes. My weapons of chocie:

Mr Color Gloss Clear

Testors Glosscoat

The only acrylic gloss I use when called for: Tamiya X-22 as it dries hard as nails.

Peter

 

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Update: 

 

Got all the internals and the cockpit bits prepped and painted. Will be dry tonight and i will put the whole plane together, and lay down a coat of primer. Then Thursday the main coat of Gunship grey will go down and sit for a week or so. 

 

Really glad I have all the weapons and vertical stabs from the last kit painted, decaled and basically finished completely. 

 

I will post some pics tomorrow of the progress. Lessons were learned and this one is already coming together far smoother than the last. 

 

Now I just wish Model Master acrylics were easier to work with/clean off my airbrush. 

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Update: 

 

Bird is built and I think I am on a much better track than previously:

 

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Little dry brushing with Tamiya Chrome Silver netted a fantastic result i think. It looks like an old, worn out cockpit. Love it!

 

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And just like that, she is ready for priming and paint! 

Edited by Flyboy3394
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Update:

 

Extensive masking of the exhaust areas: 

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And painted with the base coat of Gunship Grey:

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The gunship grey came out a bit lighter than last time and was significantly more runny as I clearly used too much thinner. Overall it came out pretty well and aside from a couple minor areas of pooling, all is well. 

 

Next is painting the nose a darker shade of grey and then the exhaust areas. 

 

 

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Update: 

Got the radome painted and the exhaust bits primed, then painted: 

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And the Alclad Stainless Steel coat went down mostly perfectly. I will be repainting the left side (in the picture) as I got some paint pooling: 

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Its impossible to tell here as it is right up against the masking tape, but I am not gonna let it go this time. This part is gonna be exactly how I envision it. 

 

Next: 5 days of curing for the model and the weapons, drop tanks, landing gear, etc. Then clear coat, decals, another coat, then an ENAMEL wash. 

 

Stay Tuned. 

Edited by Flyboy3394
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Update: 

 

Got the Exhaust fixed up and now will lay down a coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss to prep for decals. Getting very close! 

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And have some work to do on the missiles from this kit, as well as fixing up the white tips of the AMRAAMs from the last kit, that are already decaled. 

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It looks like you have some overspray on the model from painting the exhaust area.  Sometimes a light wet sand with a very fine grit can take care of this without having to repaint.   

 

Also, I like to test my paint/thinner ratio by spraying on a scrap piece of plastic before committing to the model- this can save you lots of heartache and prevent your paint from pooling.   If the Alclad was pooling, try misting it on in very light coats next time 👍🏻

 

Steve

Edited by Falconxlvi
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On 10/25/2017 at 1:42 PM, Falconxlvi said:

It looks like you have some overspray on the model from painting the exhaust area.  Sometimes a light wet sand with a very fine grit can take care of this without having to repaint.   

 

Also, I like to test my paint/thinner ratio by spraying on a scrap piece of plastic before committing to the model- this can save you lots of heartache and prevent your paint from pooling.   If the Alclad was pooling, try misting it on in very light coats next time 👍🏻

 

Steve

 

I actually resprayed a very light coat over it last night. My airbrush is out of commission for a few days so I figured i would cover up the mistakes there, and touch up a couple other areas. I used a small bit of Japan drier to speed up the drying too, so Thursday evening I will lay down clear coat. 

 

The Alclad wasn't pooling, it was the MM enamel Gunship grey. Not a big deal Its barely noticeable. 

Edited by Flyboy3394
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Update: 

Clear coat is down and decaling has begun. 

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Got most of the big decals down top, sides and bottom. I am reusing the vertical stabs, drop tanks and weapons from the last kit as they are already completely painted and decaled. I threw most of the pieces on to get an idea of what it will look like when I am done decaling and putting the wash down. Looks pretty good, minus a few mess up areas. Looking forward to putting this guy up on the shelf at the office by next week! 

Edited by Flyboy3394
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On 9/2/2017 at 6:26 PM, Falconxlvi said:

Looking good and nice saves!  I'm not sure how accurate you want your loadout to be, but the AIM-9X isn't in service yet with USAF F-15E's.  If you have any spare AIM-9M's around, that's what you want.  Also, for USAF birds, the JDAMs would only go on the bottom CFT stations- not the shoulder stations.   USAF Strike Eagles only have smart weapon interfaces on the wing and centerline stations (2, 5, 8) and the bottom conformal stations (LC/RC 1, 2, and 3).  I believe Academy intends to repackage the plastic as an F-15K, which is why it comes with all those weapons.   

 

Steve

 

Steve,

 

I know this comment ^ was a while back, but now that im days away from mounting weapons, I wanted to revisit. 

 

I plan on the AMRAAMs and Sidewinders on underwing pylongs, AMRAAMs outside, Sidewinders inside station. 

 

Aside from that, what, in your opinion, is the most realistic loadout with the 500lb JDAMs to round it all out?

 

Also, the center station did not come with anything to mount on it. I have a full compliment of missiles from the last kit that I can put there, or I could get a 1/72 scale 2000lb JDAM. 

 

Thanks, 

Zach 

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Zach, 

 

Yes, that’s a very realistic configuration.   To clarify though - there would be only 6x 500lb JDAMs total (3 on each side of the bottom CFT bomb racks, Sta 1-3).  A 2000lb JDAM on centerline would round it out nicely.  A/A missiles cannot be carried on centerline (Sta 5).  Also, do not put any JDAMs on the shoulder CFT stations (Sta 4-6).  

 

Steve

Edited by Falconxlvi
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23 hours ago, Falconxlvi said:

Zach, 

 

Yes, that’s a very realistic configuration.   To clarify though - there would be only 6x 500lb JDAMs total (3 on each side of the bottom CFT bomb racks, Sta 1-3).  A 2000lb JDAM on centerline would round it out nicely.  A/A missiles cannot be carried on centerline (Sta 5).  Also, do not put any JDAMs on the shoulder CFT stations (Sta 4-6).  

 

Steve

Gotcha. That's the loadout I will go with then. 2 Aim-9s, 2 Aim 120s, 6 500lb JDAMs, 1 2000lb JDAM. 

 

Thanks much Falcon!

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