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1/48 Eduard Spitfire Mk.IX


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I've been working on this for the last month or so as part of a Spitfire group build with a couple of local modellers. Kit is Eduard and I'll be using decals for a 310 Sqn bird with invasion stripes from AML. So far the build has gone on without a hitch with perfectly fitting parts and excellent detail. 

 

Cockpit was painted with Mr Color lacquers and weathered with various enamels, oils and pigments.

 

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Then the fuselage was closed up and the transparencies were masked in preparation for paint.

 

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The model was then primed with Mr Color Surfacer 1200 from a rattle can and pre-shaded with Mr Color tyre black.

 

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For the camouflage colours, I used Mr Color's mid to late war RAF camouflage colour set. The bottom was sprayed in medium sea grey and the top in ocean grey and dark green. As the actual aircraft camouflage was done using rubber masks, I decided to use a masking tape to simulate the hard edged camouflage that resulted.

 

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I also masked and painted the yellow leading edges by firstly applying a white base followed by the yellow.

 

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The propeller was painted with a light green from Mr Color's Gundam range which closely matched the RAF sky colour and flat black with yellow tips. Decals were then applied over a gloss coat.

 

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This last photo shows the current state of play with the masking for the invasion stripes being applied.

 

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Mark

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After yet another round of masking, I sprayed the invasion stripe areas in flat white and masked out the black parts after that.

 

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Then I sprayed flat black in the appropriate areas and removed the masking tape.

 

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As the AML decal sheet provided vinyl masks for the roundels, I sprayed them too.

 

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Some touching up to be done but they generally came out alright.

 

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Mark

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Mark,

   I built the Eduard Mk IXc and it's a great kit, just super detailed. You did an excellent job on the cockpit especially the painting and weathering.  It's too late now, but the flare holder on the front of the seat was removed more times then not as it was very annoying to the pilot as their feet constantly rubbed up against it. This tip came from the late Edgar Brooks, so I never questioned it as Edgar really knew his stuff. 

 

  Your A type camo paint scheme came out perfect as did the invasion stripes.  I'm super impressed with your masking of the Roundels, as done correctly they look exactly as they should.\

 

  Looking forward to your next update.
 

Joel

 

 

  

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Thanks for the kind words gents. A small update today. Masked and sprayed the code letters in RAF Sky.

 

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Masked and sprayed the exhausts with Mr Color Burnt Iron.

 

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And an overall shot of the build. It is ready for a gloss coat and then the decals.

 

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Mark

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Mark,

 Outstanding. the masked letters just look superb. I'm really thinking about starting to learn how to make my own masks using a Silhouette cutter for simple letters/numbers, and then moving to national insignias. 

Joel

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Thanks again for all the positive feedback.

 

Now that the painting is out of the way, I started on the decals. One of the reasons why I chose this particular scheme was because of the swastika kill markings.

 

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I'm hoping to display it on a turf surface after finishing. This is just a mock-up.

 

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Mark

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Thanks for the continued encouragement, everyone!

 

I have completed the application of the stencils and decals in general. They were thin and reacted well to the Mr Mark Softer which I used. Next up will the panel line wash and weathering.

 

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Mark

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Mark,

  

The stenciling looks excellent. Well done.

  

  I do have one question, your use of Mr. Mark  Softner &  Setter. Few people seem to use them including me. I've found that they seem to be a little stronger then Solvaset, so I tend to only use them on stubborn to thick decals as a last resort. My greatest fear is that they will attack and ruin thinner decals.  But after seeing how they worked on your decals, I'm once again confused as what their actual use should be in my decaling arsenal.  

 

Joel

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20 hours ago, Joel_W said:

Mark,

  

The stenciling looks excellent. Well done.

  

  I do have one question, your use of Mr. Mark  Softner &  Setter. Few people seem to use them including me. I've found that they seem to be a little stronger then Solvaset, so I tend to only use them on stubborn to thick decals as a last resort. My greatest fear is that they will attack and ruin thinner decals.  But after seeing how they worked on your decals, I'm once again confused as what their actual use should be in my decaling arsenal.  

 

Joel

 

Hi Joel,

 

I have used Mr Mark Softer exclusively ever since I picked up this hobby about 15 years back. To date I have used it with no problems on decals from all origins with the exception of those from Academy. Nothing with the exception of industrial lacquer thinner reacts with those decals!

 

The "trick" to using it is to be really careful after application so instead of using a rolling motion to wick up the excess under the decal, I gently dab the q-tip from directly above the decal. This will ensure that it doesn't irrecoverably skew the decal out of shape because of an accidental slip up. 

 

Which brings me the my next small update. I have applied a wash over a gloss coat. I used Tamiya enamels.

 

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Mark

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Mark,

 

A truly excellent build and result. The painting is truly a cut above.The only criticism I have concerns the emergency bar on the door hatch which appears to me to have been painted red. Wartime bars were metallic and not red as this is a modern requirement for such emergency equipment appearing on restorations. A quick lick of a brush should be able to resolve it.

 

Kind Regards,

Edited by Kahunaminor
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