Airline window decals question 1/144

[jocool1]

Hello-  I'm new to airline models, and looking for suggestions on decaling the passenger windows.  My plane has holes for the windows and a one piece decal to put over the windows.  Is this the usual method for 1/144 scale?  Will the decal hold up where not supported?  Any suggestions or tips are appreciated!  JD

[dnl42]

I fill the holes in and ensure there aren't any gaps so I don't need to worry about alignment. 

[le_boz]

Hi Jocool and Welcome among the airliners guys,

 

Depending on the model, You have 2 options. I use both of them depending on the model I am building. 

option 1 was explained earlier

option 2 is quite simple. You can keep the holes open and do all you paint work, and set the decals, and at then end you can fill the hole with some solution like micro christal clear, which is a basic white paper glue, who will become translucent when it dry. For the cockpit window, you can use some masking tape as well. This can give a very nice finish depending on the model and your experience.

Good luck and don't forget to show us some of your model,

 

Cheers,

 

Boz

[jocool1]

Boz-   Thank you for the info- It's greatly appreciated!  JD

[Vidar_710]

To fill windows like this and greatly reduce filler shrinkage over time, I frame a trench with strip styrene around the windows on the innner surface of the fuselage. I then apply tape to the outer surface with just a little relief directly around the windows, but ensuring the tape is sealed at the edges. I then pour a thin layer of quick setting resin in the trenches.

 

When the resin cures, I remove the tape, then sand and polish the resin excess flush to the skin. If any bubbles show in the resin, just lay down a thin layer of glasing putty to polish out any flaws.

 

Future airliner builds, I plan to try using Aves Apoxie Sculpt pressed into the window ports.

 

Tracy

[Ben Brown]

I use Apoxie Sculpt to fill the window holes. I press it into the holes from the inside of the fuselage until it bulges out the other side, and then sand smooth when it dries. It wet sands very well and makes a good filler for other large openings or seams. You can also smooth it out with a wet finger or cotton swab while it is still curing, so you don't have to do as much sanding later.

 

Ben 

[jocool1]

Hello Ben and Tracy-  Thank you for the great info- greatly appreciated!!  JD

[Don]

Never heard of Apoxie Sculpt before. I am definitely giving it a try! Good tip.

 

Regards,

Don

[Vidar_710]

Don,

 

I have been using it extensively on my Large Star Ship Excelsior project to correct shapes and profiles of the hulls. You can look through the Excelsior thread in the sci-fi section - particularly with the secondary hull's bow and reshaping the nose of the warp nacelles.

 

Tracy

[Don]

Thanks again all!

 

So for something like the Revell 1/144 727-100 kit that does not come with any cockpit "glass" only the framing...

...one would have to fill in behind the "glass" openings with plastic card stock and then the Apoxie Sculpt could be applied over that from the outside correct? It sands easy when dry too correct?

 

I think I am going to place an order for Apoxie Sculpt today as I have a lot of "window work" to do on a number of airliners.

 

Great information sharing...much appreciated!

 

Regards,

Don.

[Vidar_710]

Cockpit windows like that, I would press the Apoxie Sculpt in from behind by pressing it through the ports, wet my fingers with water and smoothin it out on the outside surface. This would reduce any heavy sanding. I would even add more to the nose to lock in some nose weight. Keep in mind, Apoxie Sculpt is also considered an adhesive.

 

Tracy