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Final Flat Coat Problem


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This is what happened to my Tomcat tonight after the final flat coat.

 

What am I doing wrong?

 

FYI, I airbrushed the model with TAMIYA acrylic, then airbrushed the whole model with Future, then applied decals, then again airbrushed Future to seal the decals and finally sprayed the model with Testors lacquer flat clear(rattle can) to finish it up but look how mottled the final look has become.

 

Any idea?

 

Please help!

 

IMG_0102.jpg

 

 

Edited by MiG Hunter
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I have an inkling it's due to the lacquer eating into the acrylic (Future).  I know it's not good to coat acrylics with hotter paints but it's a clear coat -- it's supposed to be OK to apply on top of anything and I've read about successful results so I'm interested, too, in knowing what caused it and how to recover.

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Well that Sucks...Looks like a bad can of paint... First thing throw away that can of flat coat. Next toss the future...no no not really but I'd just keep it around to do canopies. First I'd try another gloss coat. Not future Tamiya X-22 then flat coat of Tamiya XF-86..if that fails now You won't like this but this is what I'd do. Go get the superfine grit sandpaper out something like 6000 and do a light sanding over the whole A/C. After it sanded and cleaned up do another gloss coat using  the  X-22. It is SO much better than Future. Next it's time for a Flat coat. Don't use a rattle can.BTW XF-86 Flat well It's my new favorite for a final coat. It's a lot of work but I think you can salvage the model.

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viper730,

 

I am done with Future too. This was the last time I use it for gloss coating. It was a nightmare from get go with pools and runs and everything. 

 

Now, as for your suggestions, can I airbrush X-22 and XF-86 straight or should I thin them? 

 

I will not sand the model. I am a newbie and I am sure I will ruin the whole model with decals, ordinance,  gears and everything on now but thank you for your advice.

Edited by MiG Hunter
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yes both need thinning. get some of the Tamiya Lacquer Thinner (yellow cap 250ml bottle) they work beautifully together. As does Mr. Color Leveling Thinner by Gunze but tha'ts another discussion..A few tips for it are that I start about 60/40 thinner to paint or in this case clear coats. Spray it in thin coats to get an even finish. Use whatever PSI you are comfortable with but I suggest something like 15-20psi. After you get 3 -4 thin coats let it sit over night then come back with the flat coat, same thing a few thin coats. and let it sit up again. this time it should be good to touch in about 2-3 +/-  depending on how heavy the coats the temp and humidity etc.  Now note It will not be "Dead" flat but more of a falt sheen.  I can totally understand not wanting to sand, That can be a tricky deal.. HTH a bit Cheers

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All Tamiya acrylic needs to be thinned before airbrushing. I personally have not used Tamiya Lacquer Thinner to thin their acrylic paint. I always used either Tamiya acrylic thinner (X-20A) or methylated spirit (a.k.a. denatured alcohol). 

 

As far as clear flat for final coat, I'd use Tamiya's X-22 gloss clear mixed up with a bit of their X-21 flat base, thinned with acrylic thinner/methylated spirit then airbrush on. You need some trial-and-error to get the right amouint of X-21 flat base with X-22 - use some spare parts to test on first, obviously. Alternative to this, if you can get Gunze Aqueous paint, they Flat Clear (H20) that you can simply thin then airbrush - use same thinner as Tamiya acrylic. Note that Gunze Aqueous is acrylic, they also have lacquer-based paint called, I think, Mr Hobby.

 

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I just noticed that the Testors lacquer flat coat partially damaged the TAMIYA acrylic paint which was protected under Future! What the hell?!

 

How can I fix this mess?

 

I can't catch a break here. Problem after problem.:bandhead2:

Edited by MiG Hunter
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I have no idea about the future, I use Tamiya X-22 clear gloss as Brian mentioned, but I have used Laquer clear coats over acrylics before, but I lightly misted it on in several light coats, allowing about twenty minutes between coats.

 

If you lay it down heavily, it will ruin the acrylic finish, due to it being hot.

 

Hope this helps, and sorry your finish was ruined.

 

 

Cheer’s,

Jeff.

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2 things you can do one is paint over the damage. I'd lightly sand(i know) the damage and hit it with the matching color. then you can seal it again with flat coat. 

Or my choice would be just leave it as is. As to why I have only one guess. The spray can coat was too heavy and ate into the finish. It can happen believe me I know...You mentioned you're a newbie so This  can be used as a learning experience. I have a shelf full of these and stupid stuff still happens with almost every build to this day. I just power through them and hope I don't(but I do) mess up the next one. 

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  I've used Testors Glosscoat and Dullcoat over  enamel and Tamiya acrylic paints for years, and never once had an issue. But I don't use their rattle cans simply because they apply way to much clear over way to wide of an area.  Too much lacquer based anything will eventually eat into an acrylic base. if you use a can, then a few light coats to seal. let it really dry and cure for a day or more, then a few wet coats. 

 

  The last few model builds I've used Tamiya X-22 for a gloss base to decal on, then back to the Glosscoat to seal the decals so I can sand, buff, and polish the decaled areas. Then as I said, Dullcoat or a mixture of the two for a semi gloss or eggshell finish. 

 

Joel

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4 minutes ago, MiG Hunter said:

Thank you, guys. I guess I should not use Testors lacquer flat clear rattle can anymore.

 

BTW, is it possible to decant it and airbrush it for better control? Has anyone ever done it? 

  Yes it is, but why bother? Dullcoat and Glosscoat are readily available in glass jars. Thin them 1:1 with Lacquer Thinner, which for me is Tamiya Yellow Cap. 

 

  Decanting is usually a messy and long project time wise. If you're going that route to save a few dollars, it's just not worth the time nor effort.

 

Joel

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After I swore off Testors spray bombs, I decanted mine into bottles. I modified a spray nozzle to fit a bendable straw and that way is pretty easy and not messy. And it works just fine through an airbrush. Why yes, I am a cheap b#$%#&* !!!!! :thumbsup:

Edited by modelingbob
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Hey I've done some decanting myself : )    I didn't know why I was so nervous at first but it went well.    You'll need a spare bottle, an elbow drinking straw and some aluminum foil.   Cut the straw to something like below and attach with some tape.    Shake the rattle can to mix the paint thoroughly.    Cover the bottle with the foil and punch the straw though it and start spraying.   It won`t be messy because the angled elbow kind of blocks the paint from spraying out too fast.   It will just like dribble into the bottle.  You'll see bubbles in the decanted paint and the bottle will be cold to the touch.     Once you're done spraying,  leave the cap ajar for 3 hours or so or until it has degassed completely and you don't see bubbles anymore.    You can cover it completely after that and you can use it like normal jar paint.   


siIGirX.jpg

 

I read that while it's de-gassing don't try shaking the bottle or the paint will splatter.  I  was imagining a volcano of gull grey but nothing untoward really happened to me yet.  I've done this maybe 4 or 5 times.

Edited by crackerjazz
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