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A model recently arrived and already on the bench.


The model.

 

N1_K2-_J_001.jpg
 

The sprues that are Hasegawa's standard packed in one bag.

 

N1_K2-_J_002.jpg


Transparencies.

 

N1_K2-_J_003.jpg


The decals.

 

N1_K2-_J_004.jpg


Mask and PE.

 

N1_K2-_J_005.jpg

 

At this moment I already have some work done but I still have no images.

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

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I started by gluing the wings and fuselage.

 

N1_K2-_J_010.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_011.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_013.jpg


I painted the interiors.

 

N1_K2-_J_014.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_015.jpg


I put the mask on the transparencies and painted the color of the interior.

 

N1_K2-_J_016.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_017.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_018.jpg

 

And that's enough for now.

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

 

 

 

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I painted the propeller hub with the Tamiya XF-70, the propeller with the XF-64 and then the yellow stripe.

 

N1_K2-_J_019.jpg


I then applied lights with the XF-64 mixed with yellow on the leading edge and black at the base of the blades. Then I applied Alclad clear gloss.

 

N1_K2-_J_020.jpg


I glued the back of the fuselage.

 

N1_K2-_J_021.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_022.jpg

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

Edited by ajcmac
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ajcmac,

   Looking forward to following your build. You've accomplished quite a lot so far. I'm assuming that the cockpit installs from the bottom rather then the usual to one side 1st. I can see the advantages of from the bottom, as alignment would be easier. 

 

Joel

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11 hours ago, Joel_W said:

ajcmac,

   Looking forward to following your build. You've accomplished quite a lot so far. I'm assuming that the cockpit installs from the bottom rather then the usual to one side 1st. I can see the advantages of from the bottom, as alignment would be easier. 

 

Joel

 

Joel

I have already built the J2M3, I have on the bench the A6M5c and they all have a separate cockpit. I think it's easier to glue and paint the small details.

 

O cockpit do A6M5c.

 

A6_M5_042.jpg

 

A6M5_055.jpg

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

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To make disappear the fuselage union line I used putty. It did not work. I then used cyan glue. I'll paint to see how it looks.

 

N1_K2-_J_024.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_025.jpg


I prepared the landing gear and the doors for the painting.
 

N1_K2-_J_023.jpg

 

The instrument panel already painted.

 

N1_K2-_J_026.jpg

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

 

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Ajcmac,

  the finished cockpit looks great.  As for  removing seams,  these days I tend to use Bondo as my filler and mostly for blending. for seam issues where the glue has caused a depression I go with med CCA Gorilla Glue. For small voids I go with Bondo, then a final sealing and leveling coat of Med CCA glue.  For larger spaces/voids I fill with scrap plastic, then go the Bondo/Med CCA route.

 

Joel

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17 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Ajcmac

Terrific progress on the Zero - front office looks fantastic

Keep ‘em coming

Peter

 

 

13 hours ago, Joel_W said:

Ajcmac,

  the finished cockpit looks great.  As for  removing seams,  these days I tend to use Bondo as my filler and mostly for blending. for seam issues where the glue has caused a depression I go with med CCA Gorilla Glue. For small voids I go with Bondo, then a final sealing and leveling coat of Med CCA glue.  For larger spaces/voids I fill with scrap plastic, then go the Bondo/Med CCA route.

 

Joel

 

Thanks Peter and Joe. I hope the N1K2 cockpit looks as good as Zero's.


And to the third it seems that the phantom line seems to have disappeared.

 

N1_K2-_J_029.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_030.jpg


The propeller is finished.

 

N1_K2-_J_027.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_028.jpg


Landing trains and doors, painted.

 

N1_K2-_J_031.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_032.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_033.jpg

 

Follow the wheels.

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

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On 01/11/2017 at 9:28 PM, Joel_W said:

ajcmac,

  As long as the seam is gone, that's all that matters.

Joel

 

 

Joel

 

Looks like it's gone :thumbsup:.

 

I had problems with my airbrush. As I did not know if it was the needle, nozzle or air caps I bought the complete set.

 

N1_K2-_J_034.jpg

I started the weathering in the cockpit. I applied lights and shadows and I painted the small details.

 

N1_K2-_J_035.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_037.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_036.jpg

 

Now a layer of gloss coat and start placing the decals.

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

 

 

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On 03/11/2017 at 11:42 PM, Joel_W said:

ajacmac,

  Your interior color modulation is superb. :thumbsup:

Joel

 

On 04/11/2017 at 1:13 PM, Peterpools said:

ajcmac

Sweet work on the front office - looking so good

Keep 'em coming :thumbsup:

Peter

 

Thank you for your comments. I'm glad you like it:cheers:.

I finished the interiors.

 

N1_K2-_J_043.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_044.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_047.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_045.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_048.jpg

 

N1K2-J_049.jpg

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 06/11/2017 at 6:34 PM, Joel_W said:

ajcmac 

  The pit really looks good once together. You certainly have an eye for color modulation. 

Joel

 

Glad to have liked. Thank you.

 

I used the Tamiya X-18 as the base color. I've done a lot of testing and it sounds like it works. I will paint the model with the Alclad Alc-101 Aluminum. The shipping will be done with maskol applied with a sponge. I hope it works out as it is the first time I do.

 

N1K2-J_062.jpg

 

N1K2-J_063.jpg

 

N1K2-J_064.jpg

 

N1K2-J_065.jpg

 

The use of the cyano glue worked.

 

N1K2-J_066.jpg

 

N1K2-J_067.jpg

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

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On 13/11/2017 at 7:03 PM, Joel_W said:

ajcmac,

  The primer coat looks 100% perfect.

 

Joel

 

Joel

But it did not work
:soapbox:.

Painting the model with the X-18 was a mistake. Although it worked in the experiment I did on a wing used for testing on the model did not work. Fortunately the applied layers were very thin and did not cover the details.
I painted the model again but this time with the X-1 (black gloss) and for now it worked.

 

N1K2-J_068.jpg

 

N1K2-J_071.jpg

 

N1K2-J_072.jpg

 


The cowling of the engine already with Alclad aluminum.

 

N1_K2-_J_074.jpg

 

N1_K2-_J_077.jpg

 

Let's see how it goes in the rest of the model.

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

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On 15/11/2017 at 10:04 PM, Joel_W said:

ajcmac,

  The cowling looks really good. If you want a even shinier, smoother Aluminum surface, try buffing out the gloss black. makes a huge difference. 

Joel

 

Thank you Joel. For now it will be like this. For the first time I apply Alclad on large surfaces and after the blunder committed I think it's not bad. Next time I'll try to improve.

Walking slowly because I lack some material. Maskol to be able to do the shipping and the new set of 2 m / m for the airbrush.

I applied, in some panels, White Aluminum, from Alclad. The engine also almost ready missing some weathering.

 

N1K2-J_088.jpg

 

N1K2-J_089.jpg

 

N1K2-J_090.jpg

 

N1K2-J_091.jpg

 

N1K2-J_092.jpg

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

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Ajcmac

Looking might good and completely agree  Tamiya gloss black is one of the correct bases for Alclad and AK metallic finishes. It took me a while to figure out a good gloss black as I’ve had no luck with either Alclad Black Base or AK’s Black Base. I have found Tamiya Gloss Black works fantastically but tends to build up

a bit thick and presente some small

issues when gluing parts on. I’ve settled on Mr Color Gloss Black and it is simply the best gloss black I’ve found for natural metal finishes. If it is alright, I could post a few photos showing how well these gloss black bsses work.

Keep ‘em coming👍

Peter

 

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On 21/11/2017 at 1:51 PM, Peterpools said:

Ajcmac

Looking might good and completely agree  Tamiya gloss black is one of the correct bases for Alclad and AK metallic finishes. It took me a while to figure out a good gloss black as I’ve had no luck with either Alclad Black Base or AK’s Black Base. I have found Tamiya Gloss Black works fantastically but tends to build up

a bit thick and presente some small

issues when gluing parts on. I’ve settled on Mr Color Gloss Black and it is simply the best gloss black I’ve found for natural metal finishes. If it is alright, I could post a few photos showing how well these gloss black bsses work.

Keep ‘em coming👍

Peter

 

 

Peter

 

At the moment I am replacing the Tamiya paintings and the Gunze paintings. From Tamiya I keep only the base paints that I prefer to those of Gunze especially to make the mixtures to apply lights and shadows.

 

I used the engine cover to test. If it did not come out, I wanted it easier to remove the paint without damaging anything.

I applied the maskol and painted. Then I applied lights and shadows and took out the maskol.

 

N1K2-J_093.jpg

 

N1K2-J_094.jpg

 

N1K2-J_095.jpg

 

N1K2-J_096.jpg

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

 

 

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After applying the maskol, I painted the green. I applied the lights and shadows and removed the maskol with the aid of masking tape. I thought I might have gone further but the fear of overdoing it ...

 

N1K2-J_097.jpg

 

N1K2-J_098.jpg

 

N1K2-J_099.jpg

 

N1K2-J_100.jpg

 

N1K2-J_101.jpg

 

N1K2-J_102.jpg

 

N1K2-J_103.jpg

 

Regards

 

ajcmac

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ajcmac,

  your weathering really looks quite realistic. Paint chipping and worn areas look natural and seem to all be in right places. I do like your color modulation as it's just done enough but not over done.

Joel

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