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Using Perfect Plastic Putty


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Hi All -

  I am building my first model in many. many years - a 1/48 F18 Hornet. I am using Perfect Plastic Putty to do the seams. I am having trouble not applying too much putty which in turn causes excessive sanding and possibly sanding some detail lines. Too top it off some of the putty gets sanded out of the seams I was repairing. I would like to know if anyone is aware of an applicator tube to replace the PPP cap or any tricks to get more carefully applied putty. Any and all tips on doing good seam work are heartily welcome. Thank you in advance for any answers.

Tim

Edited by NZ7C
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You can shape PPP with a cotton bud dipped in water. Most, if not all seams, can be done this way. That is, you should be able to avoid abrasives with some care and planning. PPP needs a primer before you paint to seal it.

 

Vallejo makes acrylic putties in squeeze bottles--like their paints--or a tube with an applicator nozzle. This too can be worked with water in the same was as PPP.

 

FWIW, I use a thin CA "skim coat" atop PPP, and then polish with #4 and #6 needle files. Makes the filler indistinguishable from the surrounding plastic. Using CA as a filler requires some care. You need to file/sand it as soon as it sets, maybe 30m at the most. If you wait too long, it becomes very hard and nearly unworkable!

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Perfect plastic putty is water soluble. Paste it on with a flat spatula. Wet the tip of your finger and very gently rub at 90 degrees to the seam. Very gently otherwise you'll end up with a depression in the seam. Reapply as required. I've applied PPP and allowed it to dry and even then it remains water soluble. No real need to sand. Needs a good sealant / primer afterwards.

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Ditto Amazon (in fact...I use Amazon for a lot of my modeling supplies now). 

 

I love PPP! For hard to reach seams like wing-to-fuselage seams its a HUGE time and panel line saver. Like others have already posted, I apply it with a toothpick (cocktail stick), gently smooth it with my finger (damp or dry finger works) or tiny spatula, then gently remove the excess with a damp cotton ball/lint free rag. Use a damp toothpick to remove any PPP caught in panel lines. No need to rush either. Take your time and if done right you won't need to sand and you won't lose surrounding detail. Repeat as necessary. Sometimes I will run a buffing pad over the seam once the PPP has cured prior to priming.

 

To maximize PPP shelf life (which I find can be a weak spot) I secure the top good and tight, put the tube in a Ziploc bag and store it lid down in a cool area away from sunlight. My current tube is almost two years old and as good as the day I bought it.

 

Regards,

Don

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