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Kitty Hawk 1/48 UH-1H WIP (Update 6/29)


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22 minutes ago, rotorwash said:

Looks good to me.  I say weather to your own taste since just about everyone has their own ideas about how much is too much.

    Ray

 

Thanks Ray.  That's kinda how I look at it, but then i have seen some that looked way overdone and almost toyish.  And maybe that's what I really meant.  Does it look realistic?  To my eye it does, but I am biased!! Hahaha!

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Ok all you Huey aficionados out there, I need some help.  Starting the transmission and transmission compartment and have a few questions.  The instructions call for the compartment to be Dark Gull Gray FS36231 and the transmission itself to be FS36375.  1.  Are these correct for a Vietnam era Huey?  I cannot seem to find very many color pictures on the internet of H-models of the compartment.  I can find some recent pics of the transmission and they seem to be a lighter gray, so I think I can live with that.  I found some pics of B/C model tranny compartments and they looked Interior Green, so 2. does it stand to reason that D/H models would have been the same?

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Tom,

  The transmission should be the color of brushed aluminum and the inside surfaces of the transmission compartment should be chromate green.  You can see both here on this UH-1B.  Different model Huey, but this is a Vietnam vintage bird.

    Ray

UH-1B 60-3554 roof (244) small.jpg

Edited by rotorwash
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22 minutes ago, rotorwash said:

Tom,

  The transmission should be the color of brushed aluminum and the inside surfaces of the transmission compartment should be chromate green.  You can see both here on this UH-1B.  Different model Huey, but this is a Vietnam vintage bird.

    Ray

 

 

Thanks Ray!.  It kinda sounds like it would not be wrong to go with chromate/interior green for both the tranny and engine compartments.  I put out a couple requests on a couple FB pages too so I will see if any crew chiefs/mechanics might remember also.

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Yes the transmission and engine compartments were chromate green overall as were the insides of the butterfly doors that provided engine access but not everything in there was. Here on my picture of an engine swap on a UH-1H in Vietnam you can see the engine mounts are also chromate green as was the bulkhead. The vertical separators that isolated the engine from the transmission, intake, and exhaust were gull gray with the exception of the forward most which is chromate green. In my image you can see this ship had an unpainted zinc chromate green mast. You can sometimes find various components of the rotor head such as stab bar, mast, or pitch links unpainted in original images from the Vietnam war.  

 

41378317081_6ee52c5d88_b.jpg

Here is a slide from my collection showing the inside of the butterfly hinged engine access doors raised exposing their chromate green. This is 'Belle Star' with the 175th AHC  1967 in the maintenance hanger at Vinh Long Army Airfield. You can see the rear two dividers are gull gray on both faces. Yes, I know it's a UH-1D just showing some commonality among them.

39569524360_17c6458d0c_b.jpg

 

Unfortunately I lost the details on this image but remember it came from my 'UH-1 Huey in Vietnam' group on Facebook before I turned it over and DEROS'D out. I do remember this maint team was with the Ruthless Riders on a 100 hr tear down. Sitting on the deck just below the engine is the forward most separator for the intake. Note that of the three it is the only one that is chromate green.

41336584312_6fb1c0c931_b.jpg

 

All cracked up but often the best way to get more details. Image from CW2 Gregory "AK" Keay 192nd AHC 1971

41337389552_811e2f2009_b.jpg

 

Here you go - also from CW2 Gregory "AK" Keay 192nd AHC 1971

41337424762_2c7794fe3c_b.jpg

 

 

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7 hours ago, snake36bravo said:

Yes the transmission and engine compartments were chromate green overall as were the insides of the butterfly doors that provided engine access but not everything in there was. Here on my picture of an engine swap on a UH-1H in Vietnam you can see the engine mounts are also chromate green as was the bulkhead. The vertical separators that isolated the engine from the transmission, intake, and exhaust were gull gray with the exception of the forward most which is chromate green. In my image you can see this ship had an unpainted zinc chromate green mast. You can sometimes find various components of the rotor head such as stab bar, mast, or pitch links unpainted in original images from the Vietnam war.  

 

41378317081_6ee52c5d88_b.jpg

Here is a slide from my collection showing the inside of the butterfly hinged engine access doors raised exposing their chromate green. This is 'Belle Star' with the 175th AHC  1967 in the maintenance hanger at Vinh Long Army Airfield. You can see the rear two dividers are gull gray on both faces. Yes, I know it's a UH-1D just showing some commonality among them.

39569524360_17c6458d0c_b.jpg

 

Unfortunately I lost the details on this image but remember it came from my 'UH-1 Huey in Vietnam' group on Facebook before I turned it over and DEROS'D out. I do remember this maint team was with the Ruthless Riders on a 100 hr tear down. Sitting on the deck just below the engine is the forward most separator for the intake. Note that of the three it is the only one that is chromate green.

41336584312_6fb1c0c931_b.jpg

 

All cracked up but often the best way to get more details. Image from CW2 Gregory "AK" Keay 192nd AHC 1971

41337389552_811e2f2009_b.jpg

 

Here you go - also from CW2 Gregory "AK" Keay 192nd AHC 1971

41337424762_2c7794fe3c_b.jpg

 

 

Thank you sir for the information and pictures.  This is exactly what I was looking for.  I also posted the question in that FB page as well as one for the 195th and as expected, I got a whole range of answers.  So, unless I have reference pics showing that area of Dad's aircraft, and I dont think I do, I should be safe picking one and going with it.  And to be honest, I am really only practicing for the next one.   I planned to model this one as an aircraft ready for flight with all the engine access hatches closed.

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I just looked at your cockpit and since you asked for help. first, I will agree with Ray its your build and your vision and your weathering.

The back walls are fine but you can enhance a bit with dry brushing the edges of the walls to give a little pop. use the same cabin color and add white or half white for dry brushing.

Top of the IP should a bit more faded since exposed to the sun a bit more that the inside, also will need dry brushing to enhance the raised details on top of Ip.

the troops seat should also need to be dry brushed (just the top and front edges) to give it a bit of life. the litters rods should be a bit more failed only on their sides where the sun would fade the color, also will need dry brushing after fading session.

Back cabin interior  should have a wash on the rings on the floor with raw umber or dark brown,  the floor in front of troop seating should also be dry brushed since heavier traffic and finally the edges of back cabin floor should have silver chippings  where people step into helo.

What are the holes on the floor cabin for? more seats? if not they should be plugged in. I hope this helps you a bit and once again this is your build, your vision, I am not trying to change what you have done so far only sharing few tips.  good luck my friend, you are on the right track with your build.

 

Oliver

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Oliver, this is exactly what I am looking for in my signature below when I ask for constructive criticism.  You laid out may things for me to consider as I progress through builds, and I appreciate this.  I have a couple questions, so please bear with me as I profess my hopefully temporary ignorance in these matters.

21 hours ago, Rotorman said:

The back walls are fine but you can enhance a bit with dry brushing the edges of the walls to give a little pop. use the same cabin color and add white or half white for dry brushing.

 

To do this, add a drop or two of white to the base color (FS36231 in this case) or is it more than that?  And by half-white, I am not quite sure what you mean.

 

21 hours ago, Rotorman said:

Top of the IP should a bit more faded since exposed to the sun a bit more that the inside, also will need dry brushing to enhance the raised details on top of Ip.

 

I am not really sure on how to go about fading black.  I have seen it, so I understand what you mean, I am just not sure how to go about it.  To take a shot at it, maybe a highly thinned coat of a really dark gray or something?

 

21 hours ago, Rotorman said:

What are the holes on the floor cabin for? more seats? if not they should be plugged in.

 

I am not 100% sure if they left the holes open when the seats are not installed or they put some kind of cover over these holes.  I do know that my Dad's unit did not use those seats exept when hauling around some top brass or flying a CIC mission.  I will put that question to some of the crew chiefs in a couple of FB groups I am a member of and see what they have to say.  

 

At this point, I do not know if I will try to go too far in correcting what I have, as I have pretty much glued everything in place and I am not sure of my capabilities to disassemble, correct, and reassemble without destroying something in the process.  I do have those seats that cabin seats that will not be installed, so I may "practice" a little bit on those and see what I can do.  

 

Again, thank you Oliver for taking the time to really look and pass on suggestions.  This means a lot to me as I really want to get better at this hobby.  I am in awe every time I see your posts and hope to one day put out something that sort of approaches that!  Unfortunately, I am a very technical person as opposed to creative, and while I can reproduce something I see once I understand the processes, I have trouble figuring out those processes.  

 

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2 hours ago, JesusNut said:

Oliver, this is exactly what I am looking for in my signature below when I ask for constructive criticism.  You laid out may things for me to consider as I progress through builds, and I appreciate this.  I have a couple questions, so please bear with me as I profess my hopefully temporary ignorance in these matters.

 

To do this, add a drop or two of white to the base color (FS36231 in this case) or is it more than that?  And by half-white, I am not quite sure what you mean.

 

 

I am not really sure on how to go about fading black.  I have seen it, so I understand what you mean, I am just not sure how to go about it.  To take a shot at it, maybe a highly thinned coat of a really dark gray or something?

 

 

I am not 100% sure if they left the holes open when the seats are not installed or they put some kind of cover over these holes.  I do know that my Dad's unit did not use those seats exept when hauling around some top brass or flying a CIC mission.  I will put that question to some of the crew chiefs in a couple of FB groups I am a member of and see what they have to say.  

 

At this point, I do not know if I will try to go too far in correcting what I have, as I have pretty much glued everything in place and I am not sure of my capabilities to disassemble, correct, and reassemble without destroying something in the process.  I do have those seats that cabin seats that will not be installed, so I may "practice" a little bit on those and see what I can do.  

 

Again, thank you Oliver for taking the time to really look and pass on suggestions.  This means a lot to me as I really want to get better at this hobby.  I am in awe every time I see your posts and hope to one day put out something that sort of approaches that!  Unfortunately, I am a very technical person as opposed to creative, and while I can reproduce something I see once I understand the processes, I have trouble figuring out those processes.  

 

 I will take several photos today for you on the process of fading and dry brushing and how to fix the holes without getting rid of them so you don't alter the floor. Do not take anything apart on what you have built so far...no need for that.  

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Hi

photos to follow, photo bucket is taking its time.

This process took about an hour to complete. I wanted to do a step by step to help you understand my process. I usually go much lighter in my paint since the weathering process will darken the part a bit.  this is the basic and you can take it from here and add your touch on more weathering if u need to.  Once all the work is done i usually spray a very diluted coat of  Nato Black(90 thinner 10 paint) all over the piece to blend everything in (one coat only).  This is how I do it , I am sure there are several ways to achieve the same process and I hope u can get other modelers here to step in and share their ideas. 

 Good luck on your build.

Oliver

Edited by Rotorman
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Weathering is very subjective and unfortunately photos and viewing devices can and will distort or miss the effects. In general less is more. 

 

Oliver laid a very nice SBS on weathering. 

 

Another option, I like to use Is spray XF16, hairspray, XF12:XF2 mix. Add a little water and brush away where it's to be worn. Add oils afterwards. If I ever get around to build my Huey kit, this is what I will doing.

 

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17 hours ago, Rotorman said:

Hi

photos to follow, photo bucket is taking its time.

This process took about an hour to complete. I wanted to do a step by step to help you understand my process. I usually go much lighter in my paint since the weathering process will darken the part a bit.  this is the basic and you can take it from here and add your touch on more weathering if u need to.  Once all the work is done i usually spray a very diluted coat of  Nato Black(90 thinner 10 paint) all over the piece to blend everything in (one coat only).  This is how I do it , I am sure there are several ways to achieve the same process and I hope u can get other modelers here to step in and share their ideas. 

 Good luck on your build.

Oliver

 

Great info Oliver.  Thank you for the step-by-step process as it really broke it down for me to understand it a little bit better.  Now to put this into practice and really get an understanding.  I have noticed in your builds and in the tutorial above, you do not seem to actually assemble much before applying at least the base coat and the steps above.  Does this create any problems with assembly later?  And what kind of glue to you use to assemble painted pieces?  When I came back to the hobby, I picked up Tamiya Extra Thin and it works well, but I have also noticed that if I assemble painted pieces, it is a little too hot and affects the paint.  

 

 

 

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  • JesusNut changed the title to Kitty Hawk 1/48 UH-1H WIP (Update 6/29)

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