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falcon91352

Easy airbrushing of camouflage schemes

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Many modellers having problems to reproduce the feathered look of camouflage schemes. A realistic appearance can be achieved by free airbrushing, whatlooks like a challenging job to many. Here, I would like to show a time saving and less risky method of applying realistic camouflage schemes shown with Red Line coloors from Hataka.

 

Recently, I acquired some Hataka Red Line Acrylics and had problems with some fast clogging of the airbrush needle. I find their paint sets very appealing and all what I have seen and heard about is, that their tones are quite accurate. Half a year ago, I bought the Modern Luftwaffe Paint Set Vol. 4 HTK-AS66. With their original thinner, I also experienced the clogging and since then, I tried many other thinning formulas for airbrushing with mixed success. I found their Lacquer Thinner quite good for airbrushing the acrylics, but adhesion was quite poor. I think, that I have found a very good manner of processing now, which should enable anybody doing free hand camouflage schemes without any problems quickly. A week ago, I held a workshop at the SMC 2017 near Eindhoven/ NL and all participants have replicated the easy workability successfully, which proved me that my excellent results were not gained by chance.

 

Now, I would like to show how it works nicely. My airbrush of choice is the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR, which I have now since 5 years in use and I am very satisfied about. For this trial, I have fitted the 0,2mm needle/ nozzle combo, which is quite worn and looks more 0,3mm. But it is still working nicely.

 

At first, I gave the test object a coat of RAL7030 Stone Grey mixed with the brand new MRP Thinner MRP-AT in a ratio of 2:1. I added a drop of Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver, which works wonderfully. The new MRP Acrylic Thinner chimes together with Hataka Red Line colours nicely. The paint dries quickly and can be handled after 15 minutes. However, I let it dry overnight for forther treatment. Then, it can be smoothended with 6000 or 8000 grade Micromesh or just wiping with the finge

 

 

poTPQSYqj

 

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As previously said, my goal is to produce a nice free hand sprayed camouflage pattern within a short time period. Next step is to mask the part, which shotd remain in RAL7030 Stone Grey. Masking and free hand spraying is looking quite contradictory, but see later what happens.

 

Now, I am mixing RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Acrylic Thinner 2:1 and one or two drops of Flow Improver. A 1:1 mix also works and gives a smoother finish, but does not cover as good and need more coats. Now, I am spraying the Basalt Grey into the non masked area. Please avoid to spray directly onto the boarder of the masking tape. Apply only a slight misty coat here to avoid a buildup of too much paint here, which results in a nasty step later.

 

 

 

poXeSDyXj

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Here the result after lifting the masking tape. Please note the misty thin coat along the edges, which shows the demarcation line quite easily for the next step.

 

pmpJ75nLj

 

The ingredients for the following treatment are visible on this picture too. Now, I want to achieve a realistic smooth blending of the light and darker grey tones. With the original Hataka Thinner this is very tricky and time consuming job due to the feared tip clogging. I have experimented with a lot of thinners and fluids recently, but the new MRP Thinner changed life significantly. Now, I am using a highly diluted RAL7030 mixed with a formula, I call the "witches´brew". At first, I mix a small amount of Hataka RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Thinner in a 1:1 ratio and stirring it thoroughly. Then, I am adding the double amount of Mr. Levelling Thinner and again,   a complete one minute stir is essential. Finally, a few drops of Tamiya Lacquer Thinner are aery dded and again, another well executed stir follows. The mix should be highly fluid and sprays beautifully. I am now spraying along the edge into the dary gray area.

 

 

 

Edited by falcon91352

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The result is looking convincing and was achieved in a very short time. The "witches brew" is very nice for fine line work with the airbrush and cloggig does not happen at all. It also can be used for large area painting, but due to its low viscosity it does not cover well and many coats are necessary. However, the finish is very smooth and adhesion on plastic is very good. Since it contains some thinners of the hot type, one might assume that the fumes will smell aggressively, but it is not the case fortunately.

 

pnTHZ5udj

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A rought paint : thinner ratio of the  "witches´ brew" is:

 

1 part Hataka Red Line paint

1 part MRP Acrylic Thinner

4 parts Mr. Levelling Thinner

2 parts Tamiya Lacquer Thinner

 

For the future, I will buy more Hataka Red Line sets and hope, that the line will be expanded. There are still some serious gaps to fill, like modern French Armed Forces and  Swiss Air Force paint sets to name but a few.

 

Please try this for yourself and share your experience here. Have fun!

 

Here two more pics which show the nice results, which took just a couple of  minutes of time:

 

pocexdCwj

 

 

poLqBzQcj

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16 minutes ago, falcon91352 said:

As previously said, my goal is to produce a nice free hand sprayed camouflage pattern within a short time period. Next step is to mask the part, which shotd remain in RAL7030 Stone Grey. Masking and free hand spraying is looking quite contradictory, but see later what happens.

 

Now, I am mixing RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Acrylic Thinner 2:1 and one or two drops of Flow Improver. A 1:1 mix also works and gives a smoother finish, but does not cover as good and need more coats. Now, I am spraying the Basalt Grey into the non masked area. Please avoid to spray directly onto the boarder of the masking tape. Apply only a slight misty coat here to avoid a buildup of too much paint here, which results in a nasty step later.

 

 

 

poXeSDyXj

 

 

To avoid the much feared paint lifting, only use low tack masking tapes, like Kabuki. You further can reduce adhesion by stick and remove it from the forehead or nose and repeat it one or two times after the tape is no longer sticking, just adhering slightly.

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thanks!  This makes camo painting look easy.  I will try it out over the weekend!  I hope to master this technique.

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On 11/29/2017 at 4:38 PM, falcon91352 said:

As previously said, my goal is to produce a nice free hand sprayed camouflage pattern within a short time period. Next step is to mask the part, which shotd remain in RAL7030 Stone Grey. Masking and free hand spraying is looking quite contradictory, but see later what happens.

 

Now, I am mixing RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Acrylic Thinner 2:1 and one or two drops of Flow Improver. A 1:1 mix also works and gives a smoother finish, but does not cover as good and need more coats. Now, I am spraying the Basalt Grey into the non masked area. Please avoid to spray directly onto the boarder of the masking tape. Apply only a slight misty coat here to avoid a buildup of too much paint here, which results in a nasty step later.

 

 

 

poXeSDyXj

Kind of late to the party. I find poster tack works nicely when accomplishing a semi feathered effect. The weathering effects were "overdone" a bit so the camera could pick up the overall concept-

 

 

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