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Nail polish remover as a thinner for Tamiya/acrylic paint?


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3 hours ago, Bob Beary said:

Tamiya X-20A, Tamiya lacquer thinner (yellow cap),  IPA, and the best...Mr Color Leveling Thinner.

 

Bob,

     I completely agree. I just keep on forgetting to order more Mr. C. Leveling thinner.  I can get Yellow cap locally, so it's usually what I use these days.

Joel

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6 hours ago, Collin said:

Still searching for the best acrylic paint thinner. 

 

Cheers 

Collin

 

Depends on the brand of paint. What are your go to brands? Some brands will not react favorably to a Lacquer thinner (can make pudding out of the paint).

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Tamiya paint isn't really an acrylic paint. They call it an acrylic and do so because it's not produced in the United States but it's really a cellulose based alcohol paint. In my opinion I've found 91% isopropyl alcohol works just as well as Tamiya's more expensive X-20 thinner. I use it on my models as well as for thinning and cleaning for my students when I conduct workshops. It's very stable and forgiving, I've not had a student ever have a problem with it. 

 

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6 hours ago, 86Sabreboy1 said:

Tamiya paint isn't really an acrylic paint. They call it an acrylic and do so because it's not produced in the United States but it's really a cellulose based alcohol paint. In my opinion I've found 91% isopropyl alcohol works just as well as Tamiya's more expensive X-20 thinner. I use it on my models as well as for thinning and cleaning for my students when I conduct workshops. It's very stable and forgiving, I've not had a student ever have a problem with it. 

 

 

Been there and done that many years ago. I will always go back to Tamiya's Lacquer Thinner. It levels better and has better adhesion. What students do you teach? You work for Grex right?

 

 

Edited by Mr Matt Foley
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I've conducted workshops for up to 8 students where each student has their own work station and model aircraft to paint. I demonstrate then they follow through with the process. It's roughly a 4 hour course and the students get to keep their model. Usually tuition is $100 and we work in conjunction with one of our dealers who provides the space for the workshop to be conducted. 

 

My responsibilities for our company are always evolving and changing and in the last couple of years I've been pushing into new markets. With that said I've not been able to participate at too many model shows or been able to conduct a workshop. However, should the opportunity arise and schedule permits, I hope to conduct them again in the future. 

Edited by 86Sabreboy1
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19 hours ago, Mr Matt Foley said:

 

Been there and done that many years ago. I will always go back to Tamiya's Lacquer Thinner. It levels better and has better adhesion. What students do you teach? You work for Grex right?

 

 

Agreed,

  Yellow cap works even better then X20-A. I save the X20-A for thinning Mig Ammo paints

Joel

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21 hours ago, Mr Matt Foley said:

 

Been there and done that many years ago. I will always go back to Tamiya's Lacquer Thinner. It levels better and has better adhesion. What students do you teach? You work for Grex right?

 

 

Sorry, I didn't answer the second part of your question. Yes, I work for Grex.

 

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Mr Color thinners (all sorts) are my choice. But to be honest I've found cheap lacquer thinners works just as well as Mr Color thinners for Tamiya and Mr Hobby paints. 

 

I used to use IPA for Tamiya paints but found it gave a rougher finish to the paint than a lacquer thinner

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8 minutes ago, a4s4eva said:

Mr Color thinners (all sorts) are my choice. But to be honest I've found cheap lacquer thinners works just as well as Mr Color thinners for Tamiya and Mr Hobby paints. 

 

I used to use IPA for Tamiya paints but found it gave a rougher finish to the paint than a lacquer thinner

 I gloss coat my models before addressing decals and found the slight roughness to be a non issue. 

 

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The hobby Lacquer Thinners aren't as hot as the store generic brands. 

 

 X20-A and ISO Alcohol don't break down the paint pigments to as fine of particles as the hobby LTs do, hence the rougher surface texture to the paint finish.

 

Joel

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On 1/10/2018 at 8:03 AM, 86Sabreboy1 said:

 I gloss coat my models before addressing decals and found the slight roughness to be a non issue. 

 

So do I, but the roughness either needed to be knocked down with mircromesh or a thicker gloss coat. l found lacquer thinners works so much better and is cheaper so it's win win

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I wouldn't use nail polish remover to thin Tamiya acrylic paints. Tried that, didn't work that well. Personally, I used methylated spirit (a.k.a. denatured alcohol), or Tamiya's own X-20A thinner. These also work perfectly to thin Gunze Aqueous Hobby range.

 

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