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It helps to spray with the absolute minimum paint coming out of the airbrush and not letting the paint look wet. Slowly build up the color moving the brush constantly. This will prevent bleed-under and build up on the mask edges.

 

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On 4/3/2018 at 7:44 PM, Roberto123 said:

For canopy masking I use Bare Metal Foil, it's so thin that every detail shows up and also you don't get a build up of paint next to an edge.  I like Eduard masks but sometimes it's difficult to find the mask I want and it takes some time ordering them.

 

Along with Bare Metal Foil, I use a scalpel, which is far sharper than any hobby knife blade.  The combination of the two means you don't have to apply much pressure when scoring the foil.

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19 hours ago, Neptune48 said:

 

Along with Bare Metal Foil, I use a scalpel, which is far sharper than any hobby knife blade.  The combination of the two means you don't have to apply much pressure when scoring the foil.

I should have mentioned that I use a scalpel too.  The weight of the scalpel will be enough to cut the BMF.

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28 minutes ago, Chris L said:

 For whatever reason, I have never managed to get that to work for me .

Parafilm M? Cut off a hunk that you can work with. Remove the paper. Stretch it carefully along the long length of the roll by grabbing each end, using as much of your palm and fingers as you can. The goal is to pull the film as evenly as possible to avoid tearing. Watch it  carefully as it stretches out, and it's fairly obvious when you've stretched it sufficiently. Cut a piece off and carefully press it onto the part. I use my fingers, trying to make sure it's completely against the surface. For canopies, make sure you've gotten the film hard into the corner. I tend to use smaller pieces to completely cover the part. No worries about multiple layers.You can't burnish it like you would masking tape because you might stretch and tear the film. Then run a new #11 edge along the frames edges, et Voilà!

Once you're done painting, whether it's one coat or multiple colors plus clear coats and flat coats, carefully remove the remaining masking panels with a toothpick onto which you've cut a chisel tip.

 

HTH

-- 

dnl

 

 

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 I know , it sounds like a caveman could do it but for the life of me I have never succeeded in getting it to lay down right  all the way around.

Can't remember if it was over plastic or Future  . I have an entire roll, so it's not like I don't have anymore . Obviously missing something simple .

 

 Thanks, I'll have to try again. Cheers, Christian 

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The nice thing about Parafilm is that it doesn't have to lay down perfectly flat. Wrinkles and overlaps are fine, as long as you've carefully sealed the edge. Pressing very firmly helps adhesion. A very very sharp blade is key to avoid it pulling while you cut.

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 Thanks that makes good sense . I also enjoy the fact that you can sort of roll the cuts with a sharp curved blade rather than trying to pull it .

 I use both depending on the occasion .

 

Cheers, Christian  

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