spejic Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 It helps to spray with the absolute minimum paint coming out of the airbrush and not letting the paint look wet. Slowly build up the color moving the brush constantly. This will prevent bleed-under and build up on the mask edges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neptune48 Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 On 4/3/2018 at 7:44 PM, Roberto123 said: For canopy masking I use Bare Metal Foil, it's so thin that every detail shows up and also you don't get a build up of paint next to an edge. I like Eduard masks but sometimes it's difficult to find the mask I want and it takes some time ordering them. Along with Bare Metal Foil, I use a scalpel, which is far sharper than any hobby knife blade. The combination of the two means you don't have to apply much pressure when scoring the foil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris L Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 I have also found the Olfa Hobby knife to be a very fine cutting blade and the curve of the blade seems well suited for what I do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roberto123 Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 19 hours ago, Neptune48 said: Along with Bare Metal Foil, I use a scalpel, which is far sharper than any hobby knife blade. The combination of the two means you don't have to apply much pressure when scoring the foil. I should have mentioned that I use a scalpel too. The weight of the scalpel will be enough to cut the BMF. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Parafilm "M" is also excellent for masking over surfaces with complex curves. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris L Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 For whatever reason, I have never managed to get that to work for me . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 28 minutes ago, Chris L said: For whatever reason, I have never managed to get that to work for me . Parafilm M? Cut off a hunk that you can work with. Remove the paper. Stretch it carefully along the long length of the roll by grabbing each end, using as much of your palm and fingers as you can. The goal is to pull the film as evenly as possible to avoid tearing. Watch it carefully as it stretches out, and it's fairly obvious when you've stretched it sufficiently. Cut a piece off and carefully press it onto the part. I use my fingers, trying to make sure it's completely against the surface. For canopies, make sure you've gotten the film hard into the corner. I tend to use smaller pieces to completely cover the part. No worries about multiple layers.You can't burnish it like you would masking tape because you might stretch and tear the film. Then run a new #11 edge along the frames edges, et Voilà! Once you're done painting, whether it's one coat or multiple colors plus clear coats and flat coats, carefully remove the remaining masking panels with a toothpick onto which you've cut a chisel tip. HTH -- dnl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris L Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 I know , it sounds like a caveman could do it but for the life of me I have never succeeded in getting it to lay down right all the way around. Can't remember if it was over plastic or Future . I have an entire roll, so it's not like I don't have anymore . Obviously missing something simple . Thanks, I'll have to try again. Cheers, Christian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 The nice thing about Parafilm is that it doesn't have to lay down perfectly flat. Wrinkles and overlaps are fine, as long as you've carefully sealed the edge. Pressing very firmly helps adhesion. A very very sharp blade is key to avoid it pulling while you cut. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris L Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 OK, will retry it . Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris L Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Just taking a second look at what you just said about not pulling the knife blade means you need something like a scalpel rather than a # 11 blade. Cheers, Christian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Sorry. I meant ""to avoid the blade pulling the Parafilm while you cut." A scalpel may well be better. But, a brand new #11 works for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris L Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Thanks that makes good sense . I also enjoy the fact that you can sort of roll the cuts with a sharp curved blade rather than trying to pull it . I use both depending on the occasion . Cheers, Christian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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