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Can someone explain clear coating/micromesh process?


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I have a 737 and 767 currently primed with Tamiya primer and ready to be painted in USAir and AAL liveries using Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. I'm reading very conflicting advice about how to proceed, specifically when to use the Pledge floor thing, the micromesh, the black gloss base and the chrome.

 

Right now my plan is to mask off and paint the light grey areas. Then mask them and paint the gloss black tamiya spray paint. Then use micromesh to get the fuselages super smooth. Then use the mirror chrome and then clear coat.  But I read the with spaz stix you first spray the chrome then the black backer which makes no sense to me.  They say to clear coat it but then I read that clear coat dulls the finish.  I reached paralysis by analysis. Anyone have any good info/anecdotes?


Thanks!

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Haven't heard of that Spaz Stix brand, but a black base always goes under the metallic paint. The black base should be super smooth. This can be either done by polishing the plastic, or if you have trouble with getting a smooth paint finish, by polishing the black paint.

If you gloss coat ANY type of metallic paint, it will loose it's luster and look more like a metallic automotive paint.

The gloss coat also helps to blend in and seal the decals, but that is the same as with other paint finishes.

If you don't gloss coat it, the metallic paint may wear off when handling the model. So it's a personal preference or experience whether to gloss coat or not

 

Edited by Lancer512
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   Make your life so much easier and look at the process in steps:

Step 1: preparation. the plastic needs to be smooth. No scratches or imperfections as every single one will show up. Putty work. If you use a porous type filler like Green Stuff, Tamiya Putty, or even Bondo, you need to seal it, which is nothing more then a coat of thin CCA. Let dry for 30 min or so, then sand smooth.  Now buff, polish, or whatever you want to call it. I use the following grades:

Tamiya: 2,000 sponge, then Micromesh pads 4,000 through 12,000. Model tack cloth, then a micro fiber towel with Iso. Let dry in a closed box. 

 

Step 2: base coat. Most, but not all Metallics require a base coat. Naturally, there isn't just one way to do this. You can change the color of the base coat from Black to Brown to dark Gray, to Gray and each will change the tone of the metallic paint. think of it as pre-shading. It's other big advantage is that the tone changes are more natural then using two different colors over the same base unless you're trying to duplicate different types of metal.  for my money I still use Tamiya Gloss Black as it dries rock hard, and polishes well. I don't use any modeling products for this. I use car polishing compound, not rubbing compound. then I buff the paint with a micro mesh cloth, or pcs of old T shirts.  Tack cloth, then the Iso on a Micro  cloth.  the end result should be a super deep and glass like shine. 

 

  This isn't always the base you want. I do use Semi gloss Black if the Aluminum finish is supposed to be oxidized from operational use. 

 

Step 3: I'm old school and once I tried Alcad 2 I never switched nor tried any other brand. I shoot it  10-12 psi a few inches from the surface. Even light coats. after just a few coats it starts to pop.  Stop and give it a min, check it out in a good light source. A few coats more maybe necessary for areas you didn't get good coverage on. To much turns the metal effect into aluminum paint. 

 

I do seal as a general rule, and I use Testors Metalizer Sealer. I've tried Alcads and a few others, and they all change the finish to look more like paint. the Testors just seems to look almost the same but does change it somewhat.  when do I use it? the truth is over decals, but just a few light coats as I'm old school and worry about yellowing. also you can polish it to help remove the decal lip. 

 

One last issue that I left out, to prime or not to prime. Honestly, I've done it both ways, and the primer is just another layer that needs to be polished out. A clean surface is all you really need for the Tamiya to stick to.

 

Joel

 

Edited by Joel_W
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3 hours ago, 320 Driver said:

 But I read the with spaz stix you first spray the chrome then the black backer which makes no sense to me. 

 

That's for painting Lexan R/C car bodies.   You paint the inside of the body (so the paint shows through and is protected by the clear plastic shell), which means you have to paint them in reverse - the first layer of paint is the one that is visible.  Sort of like a mirror - silver goes on the back of the glass so it doesn't wear off, then gets a coat of thicker paint to make it more reflective and to protect it.

 

For a normal plastic model, obviously you don't want to cover your chrome with black paint.  Although SpaxStix probably do a specific chrome "for Lexan" (Alclad does), so it's worth checking to make sure you have the correct paint.

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On 1/25/2018 at 6:36 AM, 320 Driver said:

I have a 737 and 767 currently primed with Tamiya primer and ready to be painted in USAir and AAL liveries using Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. I'm reading very conflicting advice about how to proceed, specifically when to use the Pledge floor thing, the micromesh, the black gloss base and the chrome.

 

Right now my plan is to mask off and paint the light grey areas. Then mask them and paint the gloss black tamiya spray paint. Then use micromesh to get the fuselages super smooth. Then use the mirror chrome and then clear coat.  But I read the with spaz stix you first spray the chrome then the black backer which makes no sense to me.  They say to clear coat it but then I read that clear coat dulls the finish.  I reached paralysis by analysis. Anyone have any good info/anecdotes?


Thanks!

As mentioned already, Spaz Stix focuses their paint line on the lexan R/C body market. It's a similar product to Alclad in it's chemistry and as near as I can tell their Chrome is just about the same thing as Alclad's as to the results. The sales rep for Spaz Stix gave me a bottle of the Chrome at a trade show and I used it to good effect on my 1/144 RB-36. Clear coats will "dull" it slightly just as they will with Alclad but to be honest, I believe the slight dulling actually brings it into scale nicely.

 

I did similar on a 1/48 JF-104A model (using Alclad on that project) years ago. Fine Scale Modeler liked the result and photographed it at an IPMS Regional. They later contacted me asking to write a side bar article on how to accomplish a "Shiny" metal scheme which was published.

 

Given my experience with real airliners and being up close and personal with them for years I can tell you airliners are very dirty aircraft much of the time. So if you feel your model looks too shiny once you've applied the chrome don't worry about the slight dulling effect that will occur with the clear coat.
air8.JPG

Edited by 86Sabreboy1
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You only need to use a gloss black base if you are using high shine paints like chrome, stainless steel, polished aluminum, etc.  It ends up being a difficult extra step.  Regular metallics are too opaque and the base won't show through.  Your choice, though.  You do need a flawless surface and you will definitely want to at least polish whatever paint you use. 

 

I recommend using Alclad II primers.  They come in grey, black, and white.  They are micro fillers, lay down very fine and will give a uniform surface if you are priming over putties and other materials .  You can polish them down to a gloss finish, too.

Edited by Fly-n-hi
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Thanks for the recs..  One final question on this. I know I don't need to thin the paints, but I do have a Mr Color grey I plan to use for the tail/fairings. I also have Mr Color thinner.  What's the best way to thin it for application by my Eclipse airbrush? I have a dropper - Am I looking to mix it to the consistency of milk?

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I use Mr Color a lot!  I typically thin them one part thinner to one part paint.  That is usually a good starting point but sometimes the paint is a bit more concentrated.  I've had two bottles of the same color where one was thinner than the other.

 

P.s I personally stay away from CA glues.  They can be a challenge to sand flush with the surrounding plastic and since they are harder than the plastic its possible to sand away too much plastic in the process.  I have really good results using Tamyia putty.  Its my go-to filler.

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I like Perfect plastic Putty for things like making the seam where the windshield attaches to the fuselage flush.  Its perfect for stuff like that since you can use a moist cotton bud to wipe away the excess and not scratch up the clear parts.  I also use Mr Surfacer to fill 90 degree seams like the one where the vertical stab attaches to the fuselage.  You can use a cotton bud moistened with isopropyl alcohol to wipe away the excess.  Its just a matter of using the right putty for the job.

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