Academy 1/48th F-16C decal issues

[Swashplate]

While putting decals on the cockpit  instrument panel, they curled up, and did not want to stick. I use Solvaset as my decal setting solution. Anyone else have these issues? Thanks in advance.

[Bobo1953]

hi.

first out i don't know solvaset; it's not available in my country.

though, i know what it is.

now. did you use solvaset by default or you tried to tame the reluctant decal with it after it curled up?

actually i never had such problems especially with academy decals, bit i throw an hypotesis, i.e. that solvaset reacted somehow with the decal and softened it too much. then it curled.

now the decal has no more glue left to stick to the i.p.

i suggest that you dip the decal into a cup of water and leave there floating free to see what happens. if it straightens up a bit, then there's a new tamiya decal glue you can get. then pick up the decal on an adequate brush, then apply the tamiya product on the plastic i.p. and eventually try to lay down the decal on it letting it slip from the brush.

a more complicated but perhaps necessary action could be -after bathing it- to lay the decal back on its paper support, let it dry and airbrush it with several coats of microscale liquid decal film. it will preserve from cracking and will toughten it making it more rigid.

allow to cure  -they say 15 ', but i'd wait at least 45'- trim the decal film as much as you dare to, then dip it again in water and if it gives signs of life i.e. begins to move somehow on the paper, apply tamiya decal glue and slip the decal on the i.p..

i'd add: if liquid film works, shoot the whole decal sheet with it!

hope it helps.

best ciaos, and happy modeling!

bobo.

Edited January 28, 2018 by Bobo1953
correction

[Swashplate]

Thanks for the detailed reply Bobo 1953. This is the first time I’ve ever had issues with Academy decals. When I put the decal in water, it releases from the paper backing within 30 seconds.  I put a small amount of Solvaset where I want the decal to go. I place the decal on the model. I then take a clean brush and go over the decal to get any bubbles out, and excess Solvaset off. Just won’t stick. I tried letting the Solvaset  evaporate as I always have in the past.  I’ve been using it for about 6 years now.  

[Bobo1953]

my pleasure, swash.

well, if they float away from the paper support within 30'', i'm afraid that there's something wrong with the  whole lot.

the sheet may be defective; for instance they can have received a too little quantity of glue in the process of the production.

at this point i'm not sure that the microscale liquid decal film treatment could avoid this early separation from the paper, but: either you ask academy a replcement  sheet, or you work with what you have.

in the second case, as you will have to mess up with each and every decal (!) the liquid film treatment colud make sense in that it would strenghten the decals and protect them somewhat from all the stress of rubbing and curling and handling etc.

i really wouldn't like to be in your shoes, my pal!

i wish you all the best of luck for the job you're confronted with...

ah, a last suggestion: instead of solvaset and similars, use your own saliva, yeah, spit, to have your decals set. then, when dry, you can use microsol to have them adhere to irregularities, panel lines and rivets etc...

wholeheartedly, happy modeling!

ciao. bobo.

 

[caiotfjr]

Despite its name, Walthers Solvaset is not a decal setting agent, but a pretty strong decal solvent. IMO, the instrument  panel is probably ruined, but you could use milder setting agents to prepare the surface for the decal, like Microset, Mr. Mark Setter, and Tamiya Mark Fit (regular). Another aproach would be placing the decal over a dab of Future to ensure it conforms the surface 

[modelingbob]

I've had that exact same issue with Academy decals in the past. It has nothing to do with the Solvaset, the decals simply do not have enough adhesion to hold them to the surface. My solution was aftermarket decals. If you insist on using the Academy decals (not recommended), try placing them over a small dab of Future as previously suggested, and then place a small dab of Future atop to help seal them down.

[Swashplate]

Thanks Gentlemen for the help.   I was able to salvage the cockpit decals by using white glue to put them on. I'll be ordering aftermarket decals. 

[Johnopfor]

5 hours ago, Swashplate said:

While putting decals on the cockpit  instrument panel, they curled up, and did not want to stick. I use Solvaset as my decal setting solution. Anyone else have these issues? Thanks in advance.

I have had several issues with pre-Cartograf Academy kit decals that it has gotten to the point that I try not to use them anymore. I have had a few that have curled up, others that shattered when applied to water and some that silvered up, even after applying them to glossy surfaces. I have plenty of aftermarket decals for most of the Academy kits that I have, but I am glad that they have stuck with Cartograf for most of their new kits.

[Swashplate]

I’d like to get a replacement sheet for this same kit. I’ve already built the ordinance package, and need the decals for it as well. (AGM-65 Maverick, and AIM-9 sidewinders)

[Mfezi]

I recently built a 1/72nd scale Academy P-47 - the "Eileen" boxing. The decals looked wonderful on the sheet, but I had exactly the same problems as described above. In fact, there were two problems that may or may not be related: (a) lack of adhesion and (b) stiffness and reluctance to react to any of the decal solvents in my collection. The lack of adhesion problem is fairly easy to solve on decals that go onto relatively flat surfaces - just place them on a dab of Future (other clear acrylic alternatives will probably also work as well as thinned PVA glue, which a friend of mine often uses). The problem with their unresponsiveness to decal solvents is a bigger problem when you try and apply complex decals to highly curved surfaces. For example, on my P-47 there was just no way to make the nose checkers decal work. I tried hot water as well as a range of different decal solvents, but these decals were just way too stiff to conform. Even cutting them up didn't work, as it was like gluing stiff tiles all over the nose - none of them really lied properly flat. In the end, I had to mask and spray the checkers on the nose - satisfying in the end but a huge amount of work. The same went for the invasion stripes that had to go over more complex curves.

 

That model was the second time where I had a nightmare applying Academy decals. In future, I will only use Academy kit decals when they have been printed by Cartograf. Otherwise, aftermarket decals it shall be.

[DonSS3]

You use Solvaset after you apply the decal and have it positioned. As mentioned above it is a solvent. It's designed to get the decal to snuggle down onto details (raised or engraved details) and look like it's painted on.

[Swashplate]

I keep all of my extra decals from previous builds. I’ve built Academy’s 1/32nd scale F/A-18.  Decals went on without a hitch. I used Solvaset then. Looked on the decal sheet for who printed them. It was Cartograf. Thanks for all the help gentlemen.

[Mfezi]

16 hours ago, DonSS3 said:

You use Solvaset after you apply the decal and have it positioned. As mentioned above it is a solvent. It's designed to get the decal to snuggle down onto details (raised or engraved details) and look like it's painted on.

 

Although the original poster called it his "setting solution", I suspect he actually meant to say his "decal solvent". My problem with other Academy decals, as mentioned in my post a little earlier in this thread, is that the decals just don't react properly to decal solvents. I don't have Solvaset, but in my case neither Mr Mark Softer nor MicroSol had the magical effects that they have on other decals. My decals remained completely stiff no matter how much solvent you applied and refused to follow complex curves or settle into raised and recessed details. The other problem, as mentioned, is that they also don't adhere properly, regardless of setting solution or decal solvent, unless you use something like a pool of Future or thinned PVA glue underneath the decals. I've had these problems with two sets of Academy decals and will now only use decals included in Academy kits when it specifically says they were printed by Cartograf.

[Swashplate]

Left over decals from my F-18 build.

[Grey Ghost 531]

The quality and usability of Academy decals vary all over the place. I built that F-16 kit using the VTANG decals and they are on the terrible end of the range. I used a mix of Solvaset and Future to get them to stick and they eventually worked satisfactorily, but it was a struggle.

[camus27]

On 1/28/2018 at 5:53 PM, Swashplate said:

I’d like to get a replacement sheet for this same kit. I’ve already built the ordinance package, and need the decals for it as well. (AGM-65 Maverick, and AIM-9 sidewinders)

The kit  missile decals aren't nearly accurate anyway. You'd be better off with Two Bob's or Kinetic. Maverick decals are tough to find though. 

[Swashplate]

Thanks for the info camus27. Grey Ghost 531, I’m so tempted to try and use the kit decals. I’ve ordered new ones from 1001 Modelkits. Will be a few days until they get here. Until then, construction is at a stand still. Thanks for the reply.

[airsupremacist]

Bro if you think this is bad...

 

I'm currently decaling my 1/48 CH-46 Sea Knight, and I can only say, the experience is so horrible it's like it wants me to surrender.

 

First, some bits of the decal map are inaccurate: panel lines that either don't exist, or missing panel lines corresponding to the kit.

 

Next, after I attempt to remove wet decals from the sheets, 10% will crack and shatter and break. This applied even to the big piece, which is the worst because they are the most visual. Some even broken into multiple segments.

 

And as if that's bad enough, a doorway decal I applied this afternoon came off for some reason, and as I attempted to put it back in its place, I accidentally touched a dried large decal and it instantly stuck to my finger. A piece broke off instantly. I was fortunate enough to completely remove it off my finger by dipping it into water then put it back where it is. As for the doorway decal, using Future to wet it to apply it was a horrible mistake because when the decal didn't land on the perfect spot, it almost became glued to where it was currently. Trying to move it afterwards led it to fracture into multiple pieces, and again the doorway decal is a big piece too, so if it's too fragmented, I would be better off not using it at all. Fortunately I was still able to put all the fractured pieces to the doorway, but it totally drained me with so many issues.

Edited July 26, 2021 by airsupremacist