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There was some talk about the tinted second canopy in the special edition version of the G.W.H Su-35S kit.

 

 

y50Mmjo.jpg

 

 

Back in 2013 I had a close look at the Sukhoi front windshield on show in Moscow. It was tinted, in fact it was a nano layer on the glass surface and the manufacturer was showing all the advantages it has. What the actual tint colour was difficult to tell but here is a photo made back then. Have a look. (The photo was taken in a dark exhibition hall with flash so the colours are not real.) I would say it is a kind of light “tea” colour.

 

vw4snej.jpg

 

 

The tinted canopy against the clear windshield. The shade difference is not as great as on some Western aircraft types. The colour is more real, taken in summer, clear skys and sunshine.

 

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Here are the two canopy sprues from the kit with different backgrounds to highlight the comparison between them.

 

 

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TVui6f9.jpg

 

 

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Still not decided if I want to use the tinted version or go for a home made one.

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Surely the tinted one would make it more difficult to eliminate the mould seam down the canopy apex??

 

The best choice would be to sand/polish out the mould seam on the clear version - then tint it using your favoured method - dip in Kleer that has some Tamiya Smoke added maybe ???

 

That would solve two problems at once (ie no tinted canopy in later kits plus seam line on tinted version).

 

Just thinking out loud....

 

Ken

 

PS Great info Gabor - and superb K-36 seat :worship:

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Few step by step notes for engine exhaust assembly. Question is how it moves and what you need to do to make it move.

 

Personally I feel that it would have been more than enough to give us a choice of:

-  1. “level” position, that is engines running and exhaust parallel to engine axis

-  2. and engines pivoted, in static position when they look down and inwards.

Well what you get in the kit is an exhaust that you can turn around at will. I have seen Su-35 taxi on the ground with one engine looking full up and the other down and one of them completely closed while the other one is open. So if you want that, then the possibility is given.

Please note that the assembly below was made as a dry run and only blu-tack was used to fix some of the parts. It was not about the fit of parts, more a step by step of what to do!

 

Here are the main parts for the engine exhaust. Please note again that afterburner flame holder ring D2 should be positioned on the ledge inside D5! It should NOT be placed on engine compressor part D 4!!!

 

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This is how the exhaust works:

 

 

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It is very important that the outer ring of part D5 shown on the photo is not painted at all. In fact I would recommend a slight sanding of it. Actually the other side of D5 does not need any paint at all as it will be invisible. Just as well the adjacent inner area on part F1 would not need any paint, but only where it is covered by D5.

My choice is to fix F1 and D5 in position as I will want them at the end and start inner painting only after this.

 

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Now you will need a bit of force to push D5 into F1 as shown. Don’t be afraid. But it is important to know that this is not something that you expect to do any half hour. It is recommended that you push D5 into place and that is it. One can move around D5 inside F1 to achieve the required angle but it is a very tight fit so this is why I recommended earlier a bit of sanding to make space.

 

 

 

 

While the instruction sheet in step 10 shows that you should glue together the petals (D 10-13 or D6 to D9 if you want a “closed” exhaust) separately and fitting it to F1 ring later. I prefer to assemble the petals on F1. There are ridges on F1 surface to make location perfectly precise.

 

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To finish off the assembly ring F2 is pulled over the petals and attached to D5. There is a positioning notch on the ring of D5 for help.

 

 

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Moving the exhaust:

 

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Hope all the photos explain clearly what needs to be done and where things go. Please ask if you need help.  

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Concerning a question on cockpit colours here is a photo. I hope this is of help. In the Su-35S cockpit one can find an orgy of colours! :D  Simply with different colours one can make the cockpit extra detailed. Have fun painting!  :winkgrin:

 

 

 

NTPpI0S.jpg

 

 

 

Photo is from the Russian scalemodels site. It is dated 2014 and shows an airframe from the first production batch, same colours are for late production models. Permission was asked to use the photo for explaining colours. Sincere thanks to the author!

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Gabor, do you know may I use any aftermarket air to ground weapons using kit's pylons?
I am not sure if those kit's pylons are only for included AA missiles, or mayby I can use it for something more?

I have got few KAB resin bombs and it could be fine to add it to weapon loadout of my Su-35.
 

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On 3/3/2018 at 9:25 AM, ya-gabor said:

C'era un po 'di parlare del secondo telo colorato nella versione speciale edizione del kit di GWH Su-35S.

 

 

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Torna nel 2013 ho avuto uno sguardo da vicino al parabrezza anteriore Sukhoi in mostra a Mosca. È stato tinto, infatti era uno strato nano sulla superficie del vetro e il produttore mostrava tutti i vantaggi che ha. Quello che il colore della tinta reale era difficile da dire, ma qui è una foto fatta allora. Dare un'occhiata. (La foto è stata scattata in una sala espositiva scuro con il flash in modo che i colori non sono reali.) Direi che è una specie di luce “tè” a colori.

 

vw4snej.jpg

 

 

Il baldacchino colorato contro il parabrezza trasparente. La differenza ombra non è così grande come in alcuni tipi di aeromobili occidentali. Il colore è più reale, preso in estate, skys chiare e sole.

 

tE6Ao19.jpg

 

 

Qui ci sono i due canali di colata baldacchino dal kit con background differenti per evidenziare il confronto tra di loro.

 

 

rj4CxEo.jpg

 

 

TVui6f9.jpg

 

 

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Ancora non è deciso se voglio utilizzare la versione colorata o andare per una casa fatta uno.

 

 

I migliori saluti

Gabor

In this regard, could you please share close-up photos of the 2 canopy? My (and I'm not the only one) have lines of flow that ruin the transparent.  The photos were taken after removing the transparencies from the sprue.

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This is the result on the colored canopy after removing the mold line.

 

 

25841257397_cebf2493f9_b.jpg

 

Edited by Raptor71
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7 hours ago, Raptor71 said:

In this regard, could you please share close-up photos of the 2 canopy? My (and I'm not the only one) have lines of flow that ruin the transparent. 40712659541_c8236fcaed_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

Before we go any further I have to state once again that I am only the researcher in this project, just as Haneto is. We are NOT tool makers nor injection moulders or official spokesman for G.W.H.

 

First of all I don’t really understand how your canopy is all scratched up since all the canopies are delivered in individual packing where they never come in direct contact with other plastic parts which could cause damage shown on your photos.

 

 

8EjMpYZ.jpg

 

For me the canopy is a latter part of the project but had a look at it. There is a faint line on it, which should not be there. I have no explanation for it apart from what has already been said by others and what has been seen on other manufacturers kits also. A mould plastic flow line, could be, I don’t know. It is certainly not a traditional scratch.

In designing plastic injection moulding tools a Mould Flow program is used to simulate how the tool is filled up with plastic, it helps in designing the optimum place for the gate, its size, tool cooling .  . .

Of course this is only a computer program and real life often is very different, there are other factors which are not part of the simulation. Sometimes in practice very strange things can happen, never envisaged by the comp programs.

 

 

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I did a quick polishing to get rid of the slide mould tool line in the middle of the canopy. This is the result. A complete cleaning will follow before a dip in Johnson Klear to see what the canopy looks like.

 

p6pKUhS.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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@ya-Gabor I am aware that you are not a producer, but I wanted to know if your canopy also has the same defects. For the scratches that you see (only the colored canopy), they are not a problem because they went away with a polish (even if I, like you, I would be curious to know why they were present, since they are in a sealed package. For flow lines, they will certainly be attenuated with a bath in Johnson Klear, but they will not disappear.

 

-Simon.

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Work is on with the build but nothing really spectacular and visible to show at the moment. It is mainly background work with small bits and pieces as well as some detailing which does not show much at the moment.

 

Till then here are few things. This is a bit of background and hopefully some extra help in building the G.W.H Su-35S kit.

 

 

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Started assembly of the main gear bays. Looked at the instruction sheet and noticed few mistakes in Step 4. Like painting of Part I29 should be C8 silver (metallic, in this case stainless steel) and not C18 (RLM70 Black Green). It is a typing mistake.

For Part I 38 a brown colour of C43 is given. Now this is a case of interpretation. From what I have seen on the real aircraft back in Moscow this is a bundle of lots of wires, the predominant colour here is a dirty light yellowish grey (could say a kind of sail colour) with few black wires in between. The lines are held together with lots of braces which have a black soft ring with a bright metallic ring in the middle.

The green coloured Part I28 and Part I37 have an outer insulating layer on them, once again many braces are present.

 

 

Z1kSN8G.jpg

 

 

On Part C9 there are few lines represented on the surface and not given as separate parts. As shown on the photo they are yellow fuel lines, once again with braces to hold them in place.

 

Did a dry fit of the main bay parts to the fuselage bottom side.

 

uZ1n6Le.jpg

 

Mainly wanted to see if it is possible to fit all the different pipes and wires at a later stage. It is simply laziness on my part. I would like to paint the gear box grey and only add the pipes / wires later to avoid a lot of masking. It is possible and it will save me a lot of time and make it easier! OK there are few tight fits and a dry run is essential (like I 28 needs a bit of trimming to fit). However it is very important to follow the sequence of installing the pipes/wires!!! In some cases they are connected but also if you don’t keep the sequence it will not be possible to add some of the pipes!!! Don’t forget this!

I will paint all the pipes separately and install them after some shading of the bay.

 

 

 

Now here is something that has been missing from almost all Flankers kits before. This is a strange design feature by Sukhoy where the curvature of the leading edge at the LEX is made with simply shaping a sheet of metal. At the wing root the outline translates into a vertical flat surface. A flat and a curved surface meet and not much “design” was put into solving this “problem”. Look at the photos and you will see what I mean.

 

kIxG3KF.jpg

 

 

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A small “bump” is visible and there is small hole going forward which is sometimes sealed with rubbery Germetik. Why I make a mention of this? Because this is a feature of the plane which we wanted to reproduce! This is NOT a tooling mistake or some excess plastic, a production mistake. Please don’t sand it down, this should be there! :winkgrin:

 

yhjGy3U.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor  

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Oh no, it’s back again!

A week ago we had plus 16-20 Degree C! This is March, the second half. Usually we have around plus 10 or so and a full blown spring! Now all this comes from north and one finds this view when looking out the window in the morning.  :soapbox: 

 

DjnbPLc.jpg 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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36 minutes ago, kotey said:

Russians did it?

Out of my window - +5 C and rain.

Hi Kotey,

No, this time it came from North. From Scandinavian region. I know that there is a lot of snow in Poland in the past days and it has arrived to us this morning. We will have Minus 2-5 during day and below -10 in the night. In some places 20 cm of snow has fallen last night, strong winds, roads blocked, power cuts . . .

Not normal for March!

 

Keep up the good work with your decals!

 

Best regards

Gabor

 

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In the end of April 2017, during my trip to Moson-2017 as i remember at Budapest were snow too at one of days, but temperarure were about zero.

 

Just now i'm work for MiG-31 + Kinzhal missile decal for conversion sets in 1\72 and 1\48.

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Just received the Mr. Pain colours for Su-35. Will give it test and see how good they are. OK I know the paint is good, very thin, good coverage and dries in milliseconds. But will see how good the colour is for the Flanker on a test piece.

 

 

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For the moment nothing spectacular, just sub-assemblies like the Slats. They are made up of top and bottom halves. The fit is good and it is easy to glue together. Used liquid cement once again to weld the parts together. There is a seam where the parts meet, a very thin straight line. The seam is  “outside” panel lines, so to say. Used thin stretched spru and glued it into the seam. Left it to dry for few days and then sanded it down to a completely flat surface. Since it was “outside” panel line there was no need to replace then, to engrave a replacement. Have to give a good point to the parts breakdown designers.

 

 

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Tried the Slats on the wings. Just a dry run. It is optional, one can have it both in down or up position depending on how you want to show your kit. I will have it in down position as it is seen on parked aircraft.

 

 

VQl1MNq.jpg

 

 

In up position it virtually locks in position.

 

 

YlNtdWs.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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I am not the fastest builder. Take my time and what is more important have fun on the way. :D :D :D  I believe this is not a Grand Prix race (although we will have the first F-1 race of the year at the weekend). Fun of model building is far more important than speed. I know some people build kits to have the first finished new kit or build a kit just specially for model shows with hope of winning some prize for it. I believe the whole fun of modelling is lost in this case. But of course this is only my opinion.

 

Since I am still doing various sub-assemblies, I think it is important to add the note below for those who are far more forward in construction than me. :winkgrin:

 

There are guiders and actuators on flaperons (Part A1 and A2). They make possible the positioning of the flaperons at the perfect angle and exact distance. There is one problem with them. When you have the wings assembled (top and bottom glued together) as well as most of the fuselage parts in Step 12 it is recommended that you add the flaperons. It will not be possible because of the actuators. There is simply not enough room to put the flaperon in place. The reason is simple, the actuators will not give you room to work. OK if you want to have the flaperons in flight position (level with the wings surface) then you will have to cut off the actuators anyway and fitting the parts will not be a problem at all.

 

cVN9XNJ.jpg

 

 

Plan A.

The worst possible solution, where you glue the flaperon in place at an early stage (around Step 4) before the fuselage halves are glued together. The down side of it is that it will be in the way for all later assembly of fuselage and problematic with painting. There is basically no good side of this solution. Would not recommend this at all!

 

 

TLB3Rje.jpg

 

 

Plan B

is to push the flaperon in place with some force. The way I tried was to have the flaperon part in vertical position. Position the actuators to the openings, push upwards and then forward into the recess. Not easy and some force will need to be applied.

The up side of it is that you can add the flaperon after all construction is finished and even painting is over.

Down side: need force to do it and there is a chance of losing some paint from here and there and damage to actuators.

 

 

XxzUh6t.jpg

 

 

Plan C

is to cut down the length of the actuators to about half of the original (trial and error, but rather cut less and see how it goes, cut more if not satisfied).

The good side of it is that you can fit the flaperon after everything else have been finished and painted.

Nothing is perfect and there is a slight down side to this too. We are loosing part of the actuators and so the opportunity for exact positioning of the flaperon using the actuators is lost. Still one can position at exact “dropped” angle the flaperons and suitably deep in the wing.

I will be doing Plan C.

 

 

D4Si4BK.jpg

 

 

 

Here it is, the way it should be in place.

 

 

KmefpwX.jpg

 

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Some info on new products for this kit that may be of interest. AKAN should have a paint set out for the Su-35s in their lacquer range soon (there is already a set of the water based paints available). I am looking forward to getting the lacquer set to compare to the MRP paints.

Galaxy makes a couple of mask sets for the kit now. One is for the various radio transparent panels, bare metal areas, cockpit (inside and out), exhaust petals and intake areas. It looks very complete. Even has masks for panels within the bare metal areas. They are also making a camouflage mask set. I think this less useful as the standard camouflage has soft demarcations between the colors.

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10 hours ago, Mstor said:

Some info on new products for this kit that may be of interest. AKAN should have a paint set out for the Su-35s in their lacquer range soon (there is already a set of the water based paints available). I am looking forward to getting the lacquer set to compare to the MRP paints.

Galaxy makes a couple of mask sets for the kit now. One is for the various radio transparent panels, bare metal areas, cockpit (inside and out), exhaust petals and intake areas. It looks very complete. Even has masks for panels within the bare metal areas. They are also making a camouflage mask set. I think this less useful as the standard camouflage has soft demarcations between the colors.

I buy two in Ebay , thank's for the news

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