Jump to content

Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, Solo said:

This line seems not even deeper then others, but - and this is really disturbing - looks very wide.

There is nothing like this on the real aircraft:

 

213732.jpg

 

That's a tough angle (lighting) on a painted specimen. Hard to see much of any detail.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd love to put my hands on that model! it looks absolutely amazing so far! congrats on getting those intakes in one single piece! I'm currently building GWH's Mig-29 and that's my only complain! I guess you got this one right tho!

 

The pipes of air condition above the IP is a lovely detail! I tried hard to add it to my MK II but I wasn't able!

 

I'll keep a close eye on this one!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Back after a weekend break, a good club meeting, chat with friends and some excellent food.  :winkgrin:  :D

 

Where was I last week? Oh, yes. The dry fit of the engine covers. Judge for yourself and compare to previous kits where there were problems in this area. There was no need to apply any pressure on the one piece engine cover part. It simply clicked into place. I am just holding the fuselage to show it.

 

hoEolEv.jpg

 

 

DbQQzU6.jpg

 

 

 

DRM2O5K.jpg

 

 

 

 

Had a look what will happen if it is simply put in place and no “outside” assistance is applied, no glue, no pressure, what will it look like. Look no hands!  :D  Here are the results.

 

 

hEhrSqI.jpg

 

 

TKZ4GSk.jpg

 

 

 

On the outer side at the back there was a considerable gap. This will be considered by many as a serious issue, unsurmountable problem, making the kit unbuildable. . .

 

6O05TiS.jpg

 

But have a look at the next photo. Part G1 covers this area completely and the fit here is just as good. Once again it is simply put in place, no glue, no pressure. It stays in place with little visible of the joint line.

 

 

zBmGSpp.jpg

 

 

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

Link to post
Share on other sites

Congratulations on the progress Gabor.

 

Yes the fitting is quite good after my own built, a great improvement over the MiG-29 kit.

After all it approved the engines which result bad fitting was totally a mistake.

 

And please also compare the “deep or shallow” panel lines with real Su-35 photos.

 

Deepen the accurate panel lines/rivets

or fill putty in all fictional panels lines/rivets, sanding then rescribe

 

Which will be the heavier work load?

Any one who has modeling experience will has the answer at once.

 

Please keep up the nice work!

 

Cheers from Shanghai China,

Yufei

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gabor, this is simple: could you be so kind and show us this strange and wide pane line on spine of aircraft?

It could be really nice to see how it really looks, on close up or something.

I am affraid I will not buy kit with such panel lines, so it could be nice to see how it looks like.

Or mayby should I wait untill first review? :)

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Solo said:

Gabor, this is simple: could you be so kind and show us this strange and wide pane line on spine of aircraft?

 

 

Question was raised about one particular panel line, while others question every single line on the G.W.H Su-35S kit. Here is a view of the area in question. Make your own conclusions.

Fortunately we all have different tastes, different religions, different ways we live and different kits we buy based on our preferences. I can only show details and everyone can make their own decisions. Fortunately it is not a dictatorship where one single person tells everyone else what they should think off, how they should live, what they should buy . . .

 

Here is what you have asked for:

 

 RMIwi2x.jpg

 

I have to add that on the kit surface all sorts of panel lines were reproduced.

-  There are simple panel lines where aircraft surface panels join. Mostly associated with rivets.

-  There are service panels of different size which are in most cases have either fast locks or screws of different diameter.

-  There are overlapping panel lines where appropriate.

-  The photo illustrates some of them, where you can compare the line in question with others.

 

KONeMam.jpg

 

 

 

It is interesting to read about “baby’s hand” deep and wide panels lines. I don’t really like to compare kits and did not really want to get into this, but since the question was raised. . .  

Please find below a view of the G.W.H Su-35S kit back with the “Grand Canyon” panel line and for comparison a fin detail from a recent kit by another manufacturer. They are both in the same 48 th scale I should add!

The two parts are on one photo, same lighting conditions so the comparison as real as possible.

 

 QxBza8t.jpg

 

If we need comparisons between panel lines and surface detailing then here is another recent kit. I would not really like to comment it.

 

 

g4fZBU0.jpg 

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

P. s.  if showing kits, details about them, photos, news is considered by some as HYPE or marketing of a given kit, then I believe forums like this should be banned all together as well as “Build in process” where good and bad points of a kit are shown.

Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, ya-gabor said:

Here is what you have asked for:

 

 RMIwi2x.jpg

 

 

 

Thank you Gabor, this is what I wanted to see.

On this picture this line is still wide but not as bad as on previously seen pictures on ARC.

So I hope this won't be a problem for this kit.

For me the situation looks a little more promising now.

Link to post
Share on other sites

There was a question about the fit of the canopy.

 

L37x1as.jpg

 

Also a view to show the Omega shape of the windscreen as well as the clear sprue.

 

 

cxgyTaT.jpg

 

 

nH02qKd.jpg

 

 

 

nxqjC0h.jpg

 

Hope to have an update on the weekend about the work done during the week. As well as adding few drops of paint to first parts.

 

Best regards

Gabor

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a soft spot for the ejection seats so it is not surprising that I wanted to see what the tool makers have managed to do from the CAD’s.

Cut the parts from the sprue, bit of cleaning and some liquid glue. I have left the headrest off to make the painting easier just as the harness. I don’t want the hustle with all the masking, it is far easier to do them separately and fit to the seat before weathering.

 

 

p9hZuhx.jpg

 

 

The only extra work I did on the seat is the headrest sides with the long bulges. Sanded flat the side walls. I was not happy with the missing bulges but had to accept the constraints of injection mouldings of this part. Thin stretched sprue was made semi-circular with 10 scalpel blade and glued in place with liquid plastic cement.  

 

 8FSKqwg.jpg

 

 

3xhgufA.jpg

 

 

jDtfeOi.jpg

 

 

The one piece guiding rail structure was also left separately for painting. Here I did some detailing with drilling few holes and adding rivets on the back/top of the rail.

 

 

YySp797.jpg

 

 

For the photos a bit of Blu-Tack was used to “assemble” the seat.

Now it will join the box “To the paint shop”, hopefully at the weekend will have time for some colour (even if it is only shades of black in case of the seat).

 

Best regards

Gabor

Link to post
Share on other sites

Concerning the question of the panel line on fuselage Frame 25. My solution was to use stretched sprue to fill the line. All in all there is about two and a half centimeters of panel line which needs attention. I use stretched sprue for the simple reason it bonds perfectly with the plastic of the kit, since it is stretched from the same plastic. Liquid plastic cement is used to position and fix the sprue in the panel line. The liquid cement melts both plastics and welds them together permanently. Since the same material is used after drying it provides a perfect surface for engraving or simply for sanding and polishing, there is no difference in material hardness. The only drawback with the liquid glue is the time factor, but I can live with that. Left the fuselage for a day or two to dry before scraping off most of the excess plastic with № 10 scalpel blade to be followed by wet and dry sanding and polishing.

In all (without glue drying time) it did not take more than half an hour.

The version I am building did not have the reinforcement plates next to frame 25 so I sanded them off. Engraved the missing panel lines and that was it.  

 

 

The original shape

 

e5wWjXe.jpg

 

The way after my work 

 

 uatcA8u.jpg

 

Cut from sprues some engine parts. Prefer to paint them separately. Little cleaning and off they went into the “Paint shop” box.

Here I have to mention a mistake of the instruction sheet. In step 10 on 8th page a wrong sequence is shown. One has to glue part D 2 (afterburner flame holder rings) inside part D5, which is the afterburner section itself. Inside the afterburner section you have a ledge where the rings go! Do not glue flame holder rings D 2 onto the compressor stage/central body Part D4 or you will not be able to put it in Part D5 from behind (as indicated wrongly in instruction)!

 

 

LEy83cT.jpg

 

 

ZuC1haQ.jpg

 

 

I will not do much work on the engine compressor face since it is so deep inside the intake and not much will be visible of it on the finished kit. The actual first stage compressor fans are almost completely obstructed from view by the guiders / supports.

 

 

44QKnVE.jpg 

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, ya-gabor said:

Concerning the question of the panel line on fuselage Frame 25. My solution was to use stretched sprue to fill the line. All in all there is about two and a half centimeters of panel line which needs attention. I use stretched sprue for the simple reason it bonds perfectly with the plastic of the kit, since it is stretched from the same plastic. Liquid plastic cement is used to position and fix the sprue in the panel line. The liquid cement melts both plastics and welds them together permanently. Since the same material is used after drying it provides a perfect surface for engraving or simply for sanding and polishing, there is no difference in material hardness. The only drawback with the liquid glue is the time factor, but I can live with that. Left the fuselage for a day or two to dry before scraping off most of the excess plastic with № 10 scalpel blade to be followed by wet and dry sanding and polishing.

In all (without glue drying time) it did not take more than half an hour.

The version I am building did not have the reinforcement plates next to frame 25 so I sanded them off. Engraved the missing panel lines and that was it.  

 

 

The original shape

 

e5wWjXe.jpg

 

The way after my work 

 

 uatcA8u.jpg

 

Cut from sprues some engine parts. Prefer to paint them separately. Little cleaning and off they went into the “Paint shop” box.

Here I have to mention a mistake of the instruction sheet. In step 10 on 8th page a wrong sequence is shown. One has to glue part D 2 (afterburner flame holder rings) inside part D5, which is the afterburner section itself. Inside the afterburner section you have a ledge where the rings go! Do not glue flame holder rings D 2 onto the compressor stage/central body Part D4 or you will not be able to put it in Part D5 from behind (as indicated wrongly in instruction)!

 

 

LEy83cT.jpg

 

 

ZuC1haQ.jpg

 

 

I will not do much work on the engine compressor face since it is so deep inside the intake and not much will be visible of it on the finished kit. The actual first stage compressor fans are almost completely obstructed from view by the guiders / supports.

 

 

44QKnVE.jpg 

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

Thanks for the tip on that Gabor 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Hibinji wing tip electronic warfare pod is now a standard fit of the Su-35S fighter bombers. Different versions of the pod are used on today’s Suhoj family fighters and bombers. They differ in container details / intakes / strakes and nose cones. Last years MAKS show was a great opportunity to clear all the details about the pods and incorporate the information into the kit and the decal sheet.

Even with in the specific version for the Su-35 aircraft there are some “major” differences between the right and the left pod. This view offers a good comparison between them.

 

 

cukHFiY.jpg

 

 

I have not yet decided if to replace the navigation lights for clear plastic versions or not. For the wing tip R-73 missile launcher rails separate clear lights are provided (Part E10) so there is a strong chance that I will borrow them.

The pods were cut from the sprue at the very beginning and the halves glued together. Dry run was made to see how they fit and a little adjustment was needed on the location pins inside to make the sides level. Once again liquid cement was used so I left the pods to dry for few days.

The pod halves join right in the middle of the completely flat top and bottom surface. On the top surface there are two tinny lifting attachments. I cut them off for the moment to make sanding the top and bottom easier. The lifting attachments will be replaced later with stretched sprue.

 

 

amibHSV.jpg

 

 

While the pods were drying started on several areas of the kit. The nose gear bay was one of them. A very shallow push pin mark is visible on Part A5. Arrow shows its place. I used super glue to fill it up. After drying it was cut flat and lightly sanded. Have no idea if it would have been visible or not, but just in case it was removed, took just minutes, so . . .

 

 

Wjy3gFk.jpg

 

 

The nose gear parts were also cut from the sprues. Here they are the way we get them. Noticed another push pin mark on nose gear oleo. Will have to deal with that, although I think some kind of foil will be used for the oleo. This is how far I got, now it’s some cleaning of the parts and doing some basic assembly of the gear leg.

 

 

Z3rM3cP.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I thought this kit is is not yet released and that this is a test build before releasing it, but I saw it in stock on luckymodel.

I can see on those pictures at lucky model that this line across the fuselage is a bit more visible than others, it might be the light though. Well, it does botters me a bit, but not so much to skip this beautiful kit.

I'll go grab one

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have just noticed that some basic information’s were not included here. Like the kit box is just a little over 1kg in weight (1020g) and its size is 45 x 33 x 10 cm.

 

laBwFIK.jpg

 

 

Two decal sheets are provided. One is mainly for aircraft markings while the other is for stencils.

 

lHehxCx.jpg

 

 

A small photoetch is provided. Option is given to have the flare dispensers made in a covered form (the way they are usually at air shows or on training flights), small AOA vanes are provided for the nose of the R-73 missile. There is an option to replace the plastic formation lights with nice photoetch examples. A template is included for positioning the small formation lights on top and bottom of the wings.

 

 

sEZ5RLI.jpg

 

Here are the sprues.

 

 

r2DcYwL.jpg

 

 

T6D28YE.jpg

 

 

 

MbYgkuu.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

Link to post
Share on other sites

While some primer was drying on first painted parts did some assembly work on the nose gear. For full use of the kit, sprue pieces were used to hold the different part for painting.

 

vr6c85U.jpg 

 

 

This is as the leg stands (is lying down) :winkgrin:  at the moment. The moulding pin marks (shown last time) were filled with drops of super glue and sanded. Basically this is out of box here apart from that single brace. Don’t know how much will be visible of it, still it was there on my photos of the original aircraft so made it from extra thin plastic sheet. This brace is holding some of the piping so I will need it later on.

 

NmQ8k5I.jpg

 

 

UyrbRiG.jpg

 

 

 

CMOzqhl.jpg

 

 

In the next step I will start some super detailing of the gear leg. Adding piping, some wiring and a bit of detailing the plastic parts based on photos.

 

The slats are made from two parts mainly to avoid the usual sink marks that one would find on all Flanker kits. Also this way it can be assembled both in up or down position. On the ground / in static it is almost always in dropped position. Here liquid cement was used, it run into the joint line perfectly. There are location pins inside the slats, where super glue was to add strength to the slats. I avoid using liquid cement for location pins since it melts the plastic and could result in nasty sink mark when it dry’s completely.

 

UTdUW2a.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

Link to post
Share on other sites

Work is on but nothing spectacular to show. Some work on the intakes. The engine front compressor stage is in the paint shop. Had a look at the intake ducting. The two part “air duct” is where there is a transformation from square cross section to the round engine front. Not much will be visible of the inside but I think I will still do some filling of the longitudinal joint line. Here a slight force had to be used to get the side walls in right place, but actually if one puts the two parts inside the engine cover part everything will fall in place. There is spare space left. The outer wall of the duct also act as the wall inside the main gear pivot area.

 

 

 

lMauoTA.jpg

 

 

 

iNZ72C9.jpg

 

 

Some wheel parts are about to go into the paint shop but before this I slightly improved on the cooling vents of the wheel brakes. A 0.35 mm drill was used to open up the holes to make them more prominent. There is absolutely no problem with the stock plastic parts, a bit of weathering would do the job. It was simply my own personal taste and the holes were drilled.

 

 

7KITTQq.jpg

 

 

 

There are parts of the kit which I consider as extras and in some cases appealing only to a very small minority of modellers. One such thing is the radar unit. Somewhere I have already written about it as it was a late addition to surface again after it was left of at an early stage of design. Once it was clear that it will be part of the kit, I forced the inclusion of a decal for the front face of the radar.

The radar will not be part of my kit, but still would like to see what it looks like in final form and what is more important how does the decal look on it. So it will be a side-track work in days ahead.

 

 

38owS3l.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...