AlienFrogModeller Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 (edited) Added some more details to the canopy. Just a few more details here then I think I'll be happy here. All in all I added the shoot cueing box, map light, wiring, canopy pressure bellows and detailed the canopy rocket motors. Edited October 19, 2019 by AlienFrogModeller typo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 Trying to add the canopy seal...let's see how this works out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 So the Canopy seal worked okay, added the canopy guide pins as well. Just needs some paint! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 Afternoon folks, just some decalling going on...thought I would tackle the larger areas...be very very careful. They are brittle and had them crack on. but It was more user error that product. I want to thank Dave fro Leading Edge for the decals! While they set I am working on the other 3 birds. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phantom Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 Give that kit a bunch of gloss coats when finished. Mine turned out nice but the decals have started to flake badly. Guess I needed more coats. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted October 28, 2019 Author Share Posted October 28, 2019 (edited) Give that kit a bunch of gloss coats when finished. Mine turned out nice but the decals have started to flake badly. Guess I needed more coats. phantom, Thanks for the tip, I can imagine it was due to the size of all the decals on that kit. Cheers Edited October 28, 2019 by AlienFrogModeller typo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 On 10/29/2019 at 11:18 PM, Mstor said: On the small/outer leading edge flaps, you have the wrong side painted yellow(?) on one of them, i.e. you painted the same side on both. Good Man!! Great eye, where were you when I was painting this? Some of the hazards of line productions I guess. Technically; there are two painted L/H LE OB Flaps. This is not the issue, the issue is I am lacking a R/H LE OB Flap in the proper colors; but your intent is clear with regards to the issue. Please send me a PM, I changed my mind...I am sending you a prize! Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 I just added the lost conversation that was still in my editor, thank gosh! Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 1, 2019 Author Share Posted November 1, 2019 (edited) Okay peeps, what's wrong with this pic? First one to get it right get right, wins. Ps...there is no prize, just braggin' rights. Edited November 1, 2019 by AlienFrogModeller Repost due to lost days on ARC. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 1, 2019 Author Share Posted November 1, 2019 Just wanted to show a new product to me; Tamiya tape for curves. I think I'm in love. This portion of tape for the gun diffuser masking was re-used after I painted the false canopy False Canopy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 Just now, AlienFrogModeller said: Just wanted to show a new product to me; Tamiya tape for curves. I think I'm in love. Yea, that's good stuff. You can get to do some fairly tight curves and stay securely attached. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 How did you do the false canopy? Did you have to cut out any curves on the tape after drawing it by hand? I normally try to cut really thin strips from ordinary tamiya tape and try to wrap it around the area I want to paint but rarely am I able to make the curves smooth. Your work is just amazing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 3 hours ago, crackerjazz said: How did you do the false canopy? Did you have to cut out any curves on the tape after drawing it by hand? I normally try to cut really thin strips from ordinary tamiya tape and try to wrap it around the area I want to paint but rarely am I able to make the curves smooth. Your work is just amazing. crackerjazz, Sir your kind words are much appreciated and you humble me. False canopy was made with the Tamiya Curved tape 2 mm. I cut a length off then slowly worked from the front to the aft nose gear area. The tape is very forgiving and I slowly had to go back and re-aligned as I was laying the tape down to ensure the proper line was achieved. There was four pieces of tape used. 2 for the sides, 1 for the front and one for the separation from windscreen and canopy; this was kabuti tape (tamiya yellow) laid first, then the curved 2mm tape was done left, right and then front.I think in all took me about 15 minutes, walked away and then came back to have a second look to ensure the false canopy looks right. I've used decals before...hated them...love this tape! Cheers AFM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 3, 2019 Author Share Posted November 3, 2019 Test fitting some parts after the final gloss coating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 Just some decal work with the flaps. Then I taped the back to produce one smooth surface with the Inboard Trailing Edge Flaps (IB TEF) and the Outboard TEF or ailerons. This will simulate the flaps in the up position as painted. When displayed in the down position they will look misaligned. More of those pics later. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 (edited) I decided while I was waiting for decals to dry, to add more realism at the tail hook. I scraped away a small area of the hook to make it look like a horse shoe. And I also drilled a .5 mm hole into the Tail hook boom. I will get more detailed pics later. Edited November 11, 2019 by AlienFrogModeller Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Close Enough Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 Finally started mine. Thanks again for the build notes. Between those and this site you have already saved me some aggravation. One question if you don’t mind, do the newer jets have the white ceramic ? panels in the engine nozzles? Thanks Bryan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Piker38 Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 On 11/1/2019 at 1:36 AM, AlienFrogModeller said: Okay peeps, what's wrong with this pic? First one to get it right get right, wins. Ps...there is no prize, just braggin' rights. I know AIRES made the gear bays exact mirror images, but can't remember which part was only needed on one side......... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 On 10/31/2019 at 8:36 PM, AlienFrogModeller said: Okay peeps, what's wrong with this pic? First one to get it right get right, wins. Ps...there is no prize, just braggin' rights. Have they all given up? Come on people, its not that hard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 15, 2019 Author Share Posted November 15, 2019 2 hours ago, Close Enough said: Finally started mine. Thanks again for the build notes. Between those and this site you have already saved me some aggravation. One question if you don’t mind, do the newer jets have the white ceramic ? panels in the engine nozzles? Thanks Bryan Thanks for stopping by, glad I can help. The porcelain coating on the primary and secondary seals of the VEN were introduced slowly and over a number of years. Some engines even had a mixture of seals, as the non porcelain seals were not available, some were still used in the first line environment (Sqns) until all were exhausted. IIRC they started to roll out around early 2000s. So if you have a particular period you wanted to model a RCAF Hornet...general rule, if there are Bird Slicers on the front, there was porcelain in the back. Hope that helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 15, 2019 Author Share Posted November 15, 2019 1 hour ago, Mstor said: Have they all given up? Come on people, its not that hard. Actually, during the ARC memory loss incident, it was solved by a very very observant fellow, whom I had lengthy discussions with. My respect goes out to this gentleman! But here is the answer, there are TWO leading Edge outboard flaps painted for the same side...OOOPS. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 15, 2019 Author Share Posted November 15, 2019 1 hour ago, Piker38 said: I know AIRES made the gear bays exact mirror images, but can't remember which part was only needed on one side......... This is the kit set, I was torn whether to use aftermarket or not, due to the main fact these will be sitting on my shelf and I may only look at the MLG WW once in awhile. Basically, I also wanted to focus on developing my skills in other areas. Scratching building at this level is a first for me, with resin and other photo etched parts as well. I have usually been a OOB type of builder. So a good friend, in the local area has taken on the task of showing me how to cast resin. I need to get back to that soon... I think I might go really nuts on the next couple Hornets, adding detail such as panels 11/22 right, Cubic pods, and maybe, just maybe more resin corrections. But who knows... Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 (edited) Resin Wheels...a how to story, this is my approach, not the saying it is the best, it worked for me. Like my dad would say to me..."Good enough for the girls I go out with". Please use the wet method of sanding or use a mask when using resin. Resin dust rewards bad health issues. Typical Resin wheel set up. After base separation, and removal of resin base ...I taped the wheel to make a black line for re-scribing. Removed tape...scalpel with a #12 blade. Slowly rotating the wheel, leaving a nice clean cut line, I rotated a few times to ensure a nice initial scribed line. Utilizing a dental scribe I traced over the initial scribe, multiple times until desired depth and width was achieved. Paint prep...temporarily glue a flat toothpick to the inside. I use this glue for many spots on the aircraft, for temp and or permanent. It has a very stong bond, can be sanded to shape later if required. Rinse repeat, 15 more times... Until next time. Edited November 17, 2019 by AlienFrogModeller Grammar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 18, 2019 Author Share Posted November 18, 2019 (edited) Had a moment...finally figured out how to make the Nitrogen bottle acces ball on the end of the LAU-7 Rails. First take a small piece of styrene, smaller than .5mm. Then dip in your glue, I used Titebond. Then dip as required to get the right size ball. I re-dipped about three times to get the right size, then I made 6; spares for the test of my first two rails. Then I drilled a .5 mm hole in the rail in the appropriate spot. Then slide the premade ball of glue into the hole. I painted mine as I was painting other parts at the same time. Using Titebond glue to hold in place. Until next time... Edited November 18, 2019 by AlienFrogModeller Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlienFrogModeller Posted November 30, 2019 Author Share Posted November 30, 2019 Small update, fixed the main flight control surfaces. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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